Corn Snake, Red Rat Snake

Common Name: Corn Snake, Red Rat Snake Latin name: Elaphe guttata guttata

Native to: Mid – Atlantic and Southeastern United States (from the Pine Barrens of New
Jersey to the upper Keys of Florida).

Size: Hatchling corn snakes range in size from 9 - 14 inches in length. Adult corn snakes
reach anywhere from 2 ½ to five feet. Males tend to achieve a larger size than
females.

Life span: 12 - 15 years, the captive record is 21years.

General appearance: A slender snake with black bordered, irregular red or rust colored
dorsal blotches. Background color can range from brilliant orange to silvery gray.
The belly is white with a black checkerboard pattern. The body scales are smooth
to weakly keeled and the sub - caudal scales are divided.

*Note - because of the trend to strive for odd color and pattern morphs in
captivity, many strains of captive produced animals vary in appearance from the
above described traits. For example, blood red corns lack the checkerboard
ventral pattern and striped corns possess dorsal stripes instead of blotches.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: From a 12"/6" plastic “shoe box” or five gallon tank for hatchlings
and juveniles to a 16"/24" “sweater box” or 30 gallon fish tank for adults.
Temperature: Ambient air temperature should range between 780 - 820F during
the day and may drop to 650 - 700F at night. Temperatures at the basking
area should provide the snake with a constant hot spot of 850 - 900F.

*Note - Many sub - adult and adult corn snakes will voluntarily cease
feeding during the cool winter months. This coincides with their natural
winter dormant period. If the snake refuses food for two to three weeks
during the winter and appears otherwise healthy, the temperature in the
enclosure may be allowed to drop to the mid 60's F for one to three
months. If breeding is desired, this dormant period appears to increase
fertile egg production.

Heat/Light: As stated earlier, corn snakes require a supplemental hot spot to
adequately digest food and remain active. They should be provided with a
heat pad or overhead incandescent light that will provide an area of about
1/3 of the enclosure that achieves a temperature of 85 - 90 F. Hot rocks are
unstable and often get far too hot, therefore unless they are connected to a
rheostat, which will control the temperature, they are not recommended.

Substrate: Newspaper, butcher paper, paper towel, indoor/outdoor carpeting,
aspen shavings and cypress mulch (for larger individuals). Avoid any
cedar based wood shavings, as they exude irritating and possibly toxic
vapors.

Environment: Natural open wood and grasslands. Common around farms where
this species helps to control potentially damaging rodent populations. In
captivity, corn snakes should be provided with a warm, dry enclosure and
should always have clean, fresh water provided in an easily accessible
bowl. Animals will become stressed if they are not provided with a shelter
where they can conceal themselves from view.

Diet: Corn snakes of all ages will feed on captive produced laboratory rodents
(mice and rats). It is highly recommended that keepers feed their animals
only humanely pre-killed food items to eliminate the risk of injury to the
snake from the bite of a rat or mouse and prevent unnecessary suffering of
the food animal. Never leave live rodents with snakes unattended. If live
food is offered and not eaten within 30 minutes, remove it. Never feed
captive snakes food procured from the wild. Wild animals possess
potentially harmful internal parasites that can build up to debilitating
numbers in captivity. Baby corn snakes should be voluntarily feeding on
pink or fuzzy mice prior to their sale in a retail outlet. As they grow corn
snakes should be fed appropriately larger food items. A good rule of
thumb for feeding all captive snakes is that the food item should not be
larger than 1 and ½ times the girth of the snake at its thickest point. Adult
corn snakes can be adequately maintained on 2 to 3 adult mice or one
small rat a week.

Maintenance: Enclosures should be spot checked for fecal matter daily. It is
recommended that carpet substrates be removed and washed at least weekly.
Paper substrates should also be changed weekly. If conscientiously spot cleaned,
wood based substrates can be replaced every 2 to 3 weeks. Water bowls should be
cleaned and replaced at least weekly and any uneaten dead food should be
removed after 2 -3 hours.

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