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Showing posts with label Uromastyx. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Uromastyx. Show all posts

Thursday, November 8, 2007

Feeding Uromastyx

Feeding Uromastyx
By Devin Price

Uromastyx are omnivorous which means they eat both animals and plants. Since we don't know exactly what they eat in the wild a wide variety of food items should be offered. Young animals more readily accept insects such as wax worms, crickets, and super meal worms, which should be offered three or four times per week.

The following vegetables should be offered; kale, collard greens, mustard greens, sweet potatoes, carrots, peas, corn, and green peas. In addition, dandelion greens, alfalfa, grass, and flowers can be added to the diet. Beans such as split peas, lentils, navy beans, and other should also be provided. Some of these beans can be sprouted prior to feeding. Bird seed should also be mixed in with the vegetables. A reptile vitamin containing calcium should be sprinkled on the vegetables. Some of the commercial iguana food can also be mixed in with the vegetables to ensure better nutrition.

There are some indications that nutritional needs are not easily met for this genus. Several herpetoculturists who are raising young Uromastyx aegyptius and Uromastyx acanthinurus report slow growth rates.

Most desert species are adapted to live without free water. Uromastyx ornatus comes from the Sinai Peninsula where it rains less than 2 inches per year. Many species obtain moisture from the food they consume. There is evidence that some species, such as the Australian Moloch and North American horned lizards, collect morning dew on their scales which is then channeled toward the mouth.

Many herpetoculturists soak their Uromastyx aegyptius in water and claim that the animal swells as it absorbs water. Whether the animal is actually filling up with water or only filling it's body cavity with air is unknown. Considering that this is a desert species, soaking in water seems inconsistent with adaptations to arid conditions and could lead to respiratory infections if the animal does not thoroughly dry after soaking. Water can be provided infrequently in a bowl. The bowl should not be left for long periods in the cage or it can raise the humidity to possibly unacceptable levels. Baby Uromastyx ornatus will drink water sprayed on the side of the cage.

For more pet reptile info and picutes visit healthy reptiles.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Devin_Price

Tuesday, October 9, 2007

CARE SHEET FOR THE GENUS UROMASTYX

CARE SHEET FOR THE GENUS UROMASTYX

Randall L. Gray

INTRODUCTION

These interesting lizards have become more popular during the last few years. Unfortunately there is little known about the genus. The following guidelines will help maintain these animals in captivity. Hopefully as more people work with the genus success stories will become more numerous. The only way to ensure better husbandry for these unusual lizard is for all herpetoculturists to share their information.

TAXONOMY AND DISTRIBUTION

There are approximately 13 species in the genus Uromastyx. These lizards are adapted to arid regions and are found from northwestern India throughout southwestern Asia and the Arabian Peninsula to the Sahara of Africa (Moody 1987). Members of this genus are referred to as dab lizards or spiny tailed lizards. There are six species (U. aegypticus, U. ornatus, U. ocellatus, U. acanthinurus, U. hardwicki, and U. benti which are occasionally available in the United States. The other seven species are seldom if ever imported. Uromastyx aegypticus is the largest member of the genus with individuals reaching 30 inches or more in total length and weighing several pounds. The other species are usually under 14 inches in total length. Coloration is variable between and within species. Uromastyx aegypticus and Uromastyx hardwicki are usually dark to light brown. Uromastyx acanthinurus can be yellow, green, bright orange or a combination of these colors. Uromastyx ornatus are sexually dimorphic with adult males being green or blue green with blotches of yellows and oranges. Females have more subtle yellows, browns, and some orange.

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS

Behavior differs between species and even individuals within the same species. Some, Uromastyx acanthinurus and Uromastyx aegypticus, can be very shy, often retreating to a hide spot when someone approaches the cage. Others, Uromastyx ornatus, will often be tame. Individuals differ in their behaviors and you can find exceptions to the above generalizations. Large numbers of Uromastyx aegypticus and U. ornatus have been imported into the country during the last few years. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service estimated that 7,000 members of the genus were brought in 1994. For unknown reasons the death rate for Uromastyx ornatus is rumored to be as high as 80% during the first two months of captivity. Uromastyx aegypticus is hardier and with proper treatment adapts to captivity. Uromastyx acanthinurus have not been imported from Morocco for several years, however, a few animals occasionally come from Europe and a only two private breeders are known to occasionally produce captive born animals. There is probably less than 100 animals in the United States. This species adjusts well to captivity even if reproductive success is not common.

SEXING

The presence of large femoral pores with waxy protuberance and hemipene bulges can often distinguish males, however this is not obvious on all species. Males tend to have broader heads but this is often subtle or misleading. Uromastyx ornatus are the easiest to sex due to enlarged femoral pores on the males and adult males are more colorful than females. Uromastyx acanthinurus can be extremely difficult to sex. Probing does not work with Uromastyx acanthinurus and may not be a useful tool for the genus.

SOCIAL BEHAVIOR

Most lizards are territorial, which means that the male and sometimes the female will defend an area from members of the same species or even other species. Often in captivity two male lizards will fight openly. Even if aggression is not overt, the submissive male can be adversely affected. Research with green iguanas indicates that submissive males in sight or smell of a dominant male have slower growth rates. Uromastyx males should be housed separately. Some herpetoculturists even house females individually and only introduce them to males during the breeding season (Matt Moyle, personal communication). CAGING Each species of lizard is adapted to specific environmental conditions. Knowledge about a species macro and micro habitat is critical in designing a cage setup, however limited information is available regarding habitat type for each species of Uromastyx. Generally the species are found in deserts, therefore they are best kept in desert set-ups. Cages can consist of glass aquariums, metal stock tanks, or wooden boxes. Sand, dirt and newspaper are often used for substrate. Rocks or other objects should be placed in the cage to allow climbing and basking sites. Any heavy objects, such as rocks, must be securely anchored or the lizard will burrow underneath causing the rock to fall and crush it. Hide boxes provide the animals with a sense of security and are especially important for gravid females. Uromastyx can and should be kept outside during the summer or all year in the southwestern United States where temperatures seldom drop below the mid 60's F. A variety of outdoor caging types can be constructed, including a simple sheet metal ring sunk 12 inches in the ground and standing 24 inches above ground (the height is adjusted depending upon the size of the animals). Outdoor cages should be secured with a wire top to prevent predators (e.g. cats, birds, raccoons) from entering.

TEMPERATURE

These lizards are adapted to hot desert conditions. The cage should have a daytime hot basking spot where the temperature exceeds 120 F, however the lizard must be able to retreat to areas in the low 90's. Incandescent spotlights can provide hot basking spots. The wattage selected depends upon the size of the cage. Thermometers should be placed at both ends of the cage and monitored to ensure a proper temperature gradient. Under tank heaters can be used to supplement heat, however these are diurnal species and regulate their body temperature by basking in the sun. Spotlights more accurately approximately the way diurnal lizards obtain their heat naturally. Night time temperatures should be less that the daytime highs. Temperatures should be allowed to drop into the mid 60's F.

LIGHTING

Ultraviolet light is believed to be important for most lizards. Unfiltered sunlight (i.e. not through glass) is the best sources of ultraviolet light and lizards should always be exposed to sun whenever possible. There are several full spectrum fluorescent light bulbs on the market. Most claim that they duplicate the sun's light spectrum, however it is unlikely that any can achieve the intensity of ultraviolet light emitted by the sun. There is no scientific research supporting the assumption that these bulbs are beneficial, however there use is recommended since there is some antidotal evidence that they provide psychological benefits to the lizards. The new ZOOMED full spectrum bulb appears to have the highest UVA and UVB of any of the full spectrum bulbs on the market, therefore it is recommended.

WATER

Most desert species are adapted to live without free water. Uromastyx ornatus comes from the Sinai Peninsula where it rains less than 2 inches per year. Many species obtain moisture from the food they consume. There is evidence that some species, such as the Australian Moloch and North American horned lizards, collect morning dew on their scales which is then channeled toward the mouth. Many herpetoculturists soak their Uromastyx aegypticus in water and claim that the animal swells as it absorbs water. Whether the animal is actually filling up with water or only filling it's body cavity with air is unknown. Considering that this is a desert species, soaking in water seems inconsistent with adaptations to arid conditions and could lead to respiratory infections if the animal does not thoroughly dry after soaking. Water can be provided infrequently in a bowl. The bowl should not be left for long periods in the cage or it can raise the humidity to possibly unacceptable levels. Baby Uromastyx ornatus will drink water sprayed on the side of the cage.

FOOD

Uromastyx are omnivorous which means they consume both animal and plant materials. Since there is no data about the specific nutritional requirements of this genus a large variety of food items should be offered. Young animals more readily accept insects such as wax worms, crickets, and super meal worms, which should be offered three or four times per week. The following vegetables should be offered; kale, collard greens, mustard greens, sweet potatoes, carrots, peas, corn, and green peas. In addition, dandelion greens, alfalfa, grass, and flowers can be added to the diet. Beans such as split peas, lentils, navy beans, and other should also be provided. Some of these beans can be sprouted prior to feeding. Bird seed should also be mixed in with the salad. A reptile vitamin containing calcium should be sprinkled on the salad. Some of the commercial iguana chows can also be mixed in with the salad to ensure better nutrition. There are some indications that nutritional needs are not easily met for this genus. Several herpetoculturists who are raising young Uromastyx aegypticus and U. acanthinurus report slow growth rates. For example, I obtained two captive born Uromastyx aegypticus that were three inches long. Within eight months one animal was five inches long and the other 11 inches and much bulkier. The only difference in husbandry was that the larger animal would eat insects and smaller one would not. I have also observed slow growth in captive born Uromastyx acanthinurus.

REPRODUCTION

Several zoos (Christie 1993, Thatcher 1990, Wheeler 1988) and private breeders have successfully bred Uromastyx aegypticus and Uromastyx acanthinurus. However reproduction is not a regular occurrence. All breeders provide a winter cool down to stimulate reproduction. Apparently Uromastyx take several years to reach sexual maturity. As a comparison, North American chuckawallas, an ecological equivalent, take five to seven years to reach sexual maturity. Some of the smaller Uromastyx may reach sexual maturity in two or three years.

LITERATURE CITED

Christie, Bill. 1993. The Egyptian spiny-tailed lizard at the Indianapolis Zoo.

Captive Breeding 1(3):20-25.

Moody, Scott. 1987. A preliminary cladistic study of the lizard genus Uromastyx

(Agamidae, sensulato), with a checklist and diagnostic key to the species. In

Proceedings of the Fourth Ordinary General Meeting of the Societas Europaea

Herpetologica; (eds) J.J. van Gelder, H. Strijbosch and P.J.M. Bergers.

Thatcher, Terry. 1990. The reproduction in captivity of the North African spiny-tailed

lizard, Uromastyx acanthinurus. British Herpetological Society Bulletin. 40:9-13

Wheeler, Scott. 1988. Husbandry of the spiny-tailed agama (Uromastyx acanthinurus)

at the Oklahoma City Zoo. In Proceedings of the 11th International Herpetological

Symposium on Captive Propagation and Husbandry. (ed) Michael J. Uricheck

Sunday, October 7, 2007

Uromastyx, Spiny Tail Lizard

Common Name: Uromastyx; Spiny Tail Lizard

Latin name: Uromastyx spp.

Native to: Northern Africa to the Middle East, depending upon specific species. See below for specific details.

Size: From 14 inches to 30 inches depending upon specific species. See below for specific details.

Life span: Theorized to be 35 years in captivity

General appearance: All Uromastyx have a stocky build and a well-armored tail which gives it its common name. All species of Uromastyx also have salt glands around their nostrils and it is not uncommon to see salt crystals build up around the nostril. There several species in the Uromastyx genus, but only the following species are commonly imported and seen in the pet trade however, so we will only cover these species below.

U. acanthinurus: Can reach lengths of 16 inches. Colors can range from green to yellow to even some bright orange with all colors in between. This species can be found in northern Africa, including Morocco, Libya, Niger and Sudan.

U. aegyptius: The largest member of the genus, U. aqgyptius can reach lengths of 30 inches and weigh several pounds. Coloration is highly variable but is usually dark brown to light brown or tan. As the species name suggests, this species can be found in Egypt as well as parts of the Middle East, including the Arabian Peninsula, Iran, Iraq, and parts of Isreal.

U. benti: This species shows some sexual dimorphism. Males tend to have a bluish body with white spots while females are usually light tan with reddish tails. Like most species of Uromastyx, this species rarely exceeds lengths of 14 inches. This species is typically found in Yemen and other parts of the Arabian Peninsula.

U. hardwicki: Coloration is highly variable but is usually dark brown to light brown or tan. Smaller than U. aegyptius, this species will only reach lengths of 14 inches or less. This species can be found in India and Pakistan.

U. ocellatus: Like U. benti this species demonstrates sexual dimorphism, with males being bluegreen or green with blotches of orange and yellow. Females have more subtle yellows and browns and have less orange. As in most species of Uromastyx, this species rarely exceeds lengths of 14 inches. This species is found in Egypt and the Middle East like U. aegyptius.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Aquariums, stock tanks and custom built cages can all be used. As a general rule the cage should be four times larger than the lizard. For example, a 12 inch by 6 inch Uromastyx would require an enclosure 48 inches by 24 inches. Since this is a terrestrial lizard, vertical space is wasted and custom built cages can be more practical for larger specimens.

Temperature: This is a desert animal and can tolerate relatively large temperature fluctuations from day to night. If breeding simulating a “winter” with temperature lows of 55° F can be helpful.

Daytime: 85° – 95° F
Basking: 110° – 130° F
Nighttime: 60° – 70° F

Heat/Light: As this is a desert dweller, high temperatures should be provided by use of high power basking bulbs, ceramic emitters, or a combination of both. They also require a relatively high degree of UVB light. Use of such bulbs as the Zoo Med Repti-Sun 5.0 is beneficial. The new Active UV bulbs work very well for this species as it provides both heat and light. Under no circumstance should a hot rock be used with any animal. They are notoriously unreliable and can cause serious injury to your pet. Substrate: A variety of substrates can be used for this lizard. Newspaper can make an easy to clean, though not attractive substrate. Sand can all be used as a substrate. If using sand, use only natural sand such as Caribbean Play Sand which is commonly available at major home stores. Many people are reporting intestinal impaction and bleeding from crushed walnut substrate and most breeders are not recommending crushed walnut.

Environment: These are terrestrial burrowing animals and do not require any branches for climbing. They do require a hiding area that they can feel something rubbing against their backs to feel comfortable. This can easily be accomplished by using rocks and a piece of slate. The slate can also provide and excellent basking spot as well for the lizard.

Diet: These are omnivorous lizards though a majority of their diet consists of vegetables and dark leafy greens with the occasional insects. Vegetables such as carrots, beans, peas, corn, and many varieties of dark greens and dandelion greens should be offered. Some bird seed can also be added to the vegetable mix as well. Some people have even added commercially available finch pellets to supplement the diet. Crickets, mealworms, super worms or wax worms should be offered occasionally. Because this is a desert dweller, water does not need to be offered as they will get all of their moisture they need from their diet.

Maintenance: The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily. A thorough cleaning should be performed on a regular basis. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure before replacing the substrate and placing the lizard back in the enclosure. Hand washing after handling the lizard or any cage furnishings is essential.


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