Easy to Find Exotic Types of Turtles

Easy to Find Exotic Types of Turtles
By Ispas Marin

If you are going to get a turtle as your pet then you will probably visit a local pet store. The types of turtles that you will find in common pet stores around United States are native ones. This local native types of turtles are recommended for beginner turtle keepers. But, in time, if you have some experience with turtle care you can consider to buy some exotic types of turtles. The problem with exotic turtles is that if they aren't born in captivity then they will hardly adapt. but with proper care having an exotic turtle as your pet is not impossible.

One of the most common types of turtles in the United States pet stores is the Reeves Turtle. It's a small type of turtle that has some kind of rectangular shape. The carapace has a browny colour and the skin is green with yellow stripes. They are originary from Asia. they can be feed with different types of vegetables, worms, fish or turtle food. The turtle care guideline is similar to the sliders turtles.

Two other types of turtles would be Asian Yellow Pond Turtle (Mauremys mutica) and the Asian Leaf Turtle (Cyclemys dentata). They look much alike the Reeve's Turtle regarding size and shape. The coloration is predominated by yellow and brown. Keep in mind that are more therestrial turtles than the sliders and so they need a larger basking and land area. Following the turtle care advice for the Reeve's turtle you should have any problems in growing them.

The African Mud Turtle was recently imported in a large number. These types of turtles, although they are mud turtles, are very much alike the Painted turtles. They have brown carapace with yellow or gray skin. You can try to setups a slider enclousure for them and you shouldn't have any problems.

There are some other types of turtles that can be found in the pet stores but if you are really looking for a special type of exotic turtle than you should contact a reptile seller. There was a time when you could find Snake-neck turtles and Big-headed turtles on the pet stores market and maybe in time they will be imported in larger numbers again. This types of turtles have a really special look that you won't forget. The Snake-neck turtles have a very long neck, almost as long as their carapace. Big-headed Turtles, like their name says have a huge head that can't even retract in the shell.

So all in all there are some types of exotic turtles on the United States pet market but if you are a beginner in growing turtles then i advise you to take a native one in your home.

If you are looking for information on different common types of turtles, visit us at one of the best turtle care advice site.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ispas_Marin

The Truth About Turtles

The Truth About Turtles
By Van Whitsett

It can be hard to talk about turtles properly in North America because what we refer to as turtles is not really what a turtle is. While traditionally we use the word to describe those shelled reptiles that live by the water it really refers to any shelled reptile there is. In this part of the world we generally refer to the land turtles as tortoises.

So though we separate the species in our minds by assigning different words, they are really all one. These are little guys that are born with a shell. It is a bony leathery shell that grows with them and is pretty much carried with them for life.

Turtles are resilient creatures and perhaps one of the best examples of evolved life on Earth. This is because they have survived longer than most any other species that has come along. The earliest known turtles lived so long ago that dinosaurs were walking the earth with them, but when the disaster struck to wipe out the dinosaurs the turtles managed to survive. They also survived another life altering disaster a few million years later.

Now these guys back then were so well evolved, that is to say they were such a perfect specimen of what they should be, that the oldest fossils we know of are not much different than the ones that roam around today. That means that in the past millions of years turtles have not changed, and have not had to change, all that much in order to survive. Compare that with humans who have evolved dramatically from where we were just a million years ago.

These days turtles can be found everywhere. Populated or remote areas, in personal aquariums or you can find some really big and old turtles in any number of zoos.

Van Whitsett has published a number of articles, both online and offline. For more info on turtles, visit: Turtle Pond

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Van_Whitsett

AFRICAN SPURRED TORTOISE (GEOCHELONE SULCATA)

AFRICAN SPURRED TORTOISE (GEOCHELONE SULCATA)

***CARE TIPS***

Written By Marissa Adams

I am in the process of raising a juvenile African Spurred Tortoise(Geochelone Sulcata) and have researched the proper care thoroughly. I wantto give you the accurate information you need to keep and raise your Sulcata so you don't make some of the grave mistakes that I did when I didn't know what to do. Point of interest: for those of you who also have Leopard tortoises, the care of the Leopard and the Sulcata is virtually identical. However, you should not house these species together, as the personalities and aggressiveness (and eventually, size) are very different!

Veterinarian Information
Upon first purchase of your tortoise, you should have the tortoise examinedby a qualified reptile vet. Preferably one who is familiar with treating terrestrial land tortoises such as Sulcatas. Most regular vets have only had exposure to common water turtles and box turtles. You want to try to find someone who is familiar with Sulcatas. You would want to have the vet do a complete fecal culture to check for all parasites, including Giardia. If your tortoise is wild caught (which you should try to steer clear from), it will probably have a better chance of having internal parasites than a captive bred tortoise. However, all tortoises can have parasites, so that needs to be checked for. If you do not have a reputable reptile vet n your area or are not sure where to begin, access Melissa Kaplan's Herp Vets section of her web site at:
http://www.sonic.net/melissk/society.html#societies. You should then choose your stat,e and you will be provided with a list of reptile vets in your state. Designate a the ones within driving distance to you and begin calling around to find out which vet has had the most experience dealing with Sulcatas. Then, make an appointment for an exam. You will want your vet to record an accurate weight in his file. Then, every few months, you should return to have your tortoise weighed. The vet will not charge you to weigh the tortoise, and it is a good idea to have a running recorded file of weight and measurement.

Heating
To begin with, never use a hot rock as a heat source. Hot rocks are the worst, especially for a tortoise! Your tortoise (especially a hatchling) has very a sensitive shell and skin, and any contact with the hot rock can cause severe skin and shell burns, which could be, in a worse case scenario, fatal! The very best thing for tortoises (and all reptiles) is an under-tank heater. Find one that sticks to the underside of your tank, on the outside, providing necessary belly heat without potential burn factor. Make sure you get the correct size under-tank heater, which corresponds to the size of your tank. As a precautionary note, it is important to remember that most of these heaters raise the temperature 15 degrees F (8 degrees C) or so above ambient. In the event that you home gets over 80 degrees F (27 degrees C) this pad must be shut off or you can possibly cook your hatchling. The tank size should either be 10 or 20 gallon for a hatchling, nothing smaller than that. My hatchling was in a 10 gallon for 5 months, then a 20 gallon long for 5 months, now he is in a 135 gallon because I got a good buy. After a few years in different sized tanks, your Sulcata will probably outgrow any tank altogether and be better suited in an indoor pen, outdoor pen, or in your yard (depending on the temperatures and weather where you live). on the temperatures and weather where you live).

Outdoor Housing
If you eventually do keep your tortoise in your yard, you want to make sure that your grass is natural, and not sprayed with any pesticides or fertilizing agents if possible. If you have a garden with fertilizer in it, you might want to fence that particular area in. You should take pains to ensure your fence is sturdy enough to withstand digging and burrowing that may take place, which may mean you need to have the fence sunk into the ground a few inches. Many people do this now for their dogs that tend to dig, so I'm sure you won't be the first to ask your local fence company to sink a fence. Also, be sure to furnish your yard with plants and grasses that are edible for the tortoises. There are a few place to get this information. Melissa Kaplan's African Spurred Tortoise care sheet will give you a list of the safe and appropriate plants and grasses with which to landscape your tortoise's pen. That link is:
http://www.sonic.net/~melissk/#chelonian.Also, the Tortoise Trust web site has a video you can order on that subject. For a detailed list of which plants are edible for the tortoises, click on this link:
http://www.tortoise.org/general/edibplan.html. For a detailed list of which plants are poisonous or toxic, click on this link:
http://www.tortoise.org/general/poisonp.html. Additionally, you should make sure your tortoise has a shelter to use in case of inclement or cold weather. These tortoises can take light, warm rain, it is even good for them to be stimulated by their changing environment. However, the Sulcata cannot be left outside for long periods of cold, damp, rainy weather, or in the cold winters of northern areas. You can provide an insulated shed with a access ramp for shelter. You should also furnish this shed with some pig farrowing heat pads, heat lamps, etc. You can find some great pictures and ideas for building an outdoor tortoise enclosure at the Tortoise Country web site.

Lighting
If outdoor time is not provided a fluorescent full spectrum UVB bulb is necessary to the development of your tortoise, from the hatchling stages through adult, and should always be provided, along with a basking bulb. This is necessary for the animal to produce Vitamin D3, which is necessary for calcium utilization for healthy shell growth. Remember, all so-called "full spectrum" lights do not provide UVB rays, remember to check the lighting info on each brand, it must at least say UVB on the box. Most incandescent heat bulbs will state that they are full spectrum, but really do not have UVB rays. The lights that you will want that have the UVB rays are long, skinny, fluorescent bulbs. There has been some research that indicates that if a calcium supplement that contains Vitamin D3 is used the UVB is not necessary, I use both as I consider the added light to be necessary for the proper behavior of the animal.

Temperature
It is most important to monitor temperatures. Get a good thermometer and mount it to the glass. What I have are two of the Radio Shack indoor/outdoor digital mountable thermometers. They run about $10 each and are excellent, and extremely accurate. They have velcro and can mount to the glass, but the actual thermometer section can be removed and moved around to monitor all cage temps! I have two in my big tank. For a small 10/20/30 gallon tank, one would probably be fine. However, move the thermometer around to make sure it is not too hot in the middle, right under the heat lamp, and in the cool zone. For a small tank, it is difficult to make a hot zone and a cool zone, but you can try. In a larger tank or enclosure, you should have the under-tank heater and can place a heat lamp in one area. Then, nothing in the cool zone. In my large tank, I only have an under-tank heater and no heat lamps, as the room the tank is in never goes below 70 degrees. I find I am able to maintain the proper temperatures without heat bulbs. You can still offer an under-tank heater, even if you find that you don't need a heat bulb. If you find that you don't need a heat lamp to maintain proper temperatures, do not use one. The only light source that is necessary is the UVB lighting. A heat lamp is not necessary.
Important: everyone says to keep these tortoises at high temps, but it is not true! Sulcatas max out for eating and mobility at 77 degrees F (25 degrees C). Past 86 degrees, they are pretty much inert. A good temperature zone is 85 degrees in the hot zone and 72-75 in the cool zone. These would be considered proper temperature ranges. If it gets too hot, 90-100 degrees F, (32 - 37 degrees C) they can become very dehydrated and lose appetite, develop bladder stones and additional problems, etc. I listened to all the conflicting info and made it too hot for the first few months I had my hatchling. I did not realize the importance of soakings, and consequently, my tortoise developed a bladder stone, which I am treating with lowered temperatures and frequent soakings. Don't make the same mistake!

Soaking
Also, it is important to soak your hatchling at least a few times per week, and you can even soak each day,. Soak your juvenile 2-3 times a week without fail. Your tortoise will be considered a juvenile and no longer a hatchling after about 1 year of age. An adult Sulcata should be still be soaked 1 time per week for the rest of its life. The water should be
lukewarm and no deeper than the bottom shell (plastron). I use a plastic kitty-litter pan as a "bath tub", which is good, as the tortoise likes to see out over the rim, and it makes for an easy clean-up. I used to use a deep bowl, but my tortoises seemed to like to see out and would sit longer in a short, flat pan-like receptacle. You should soak for about 5-10 minutes each time and make sure the tortoise is clean and dry when he goes back in his tank, or for a walk around. Further reading on proper soaking techniques can be found at: http://home.earthlink.net/~rednine/soak.htm.

Substrate
Also, it is important for your tortoise to be able to burrow. In the wild, Sulcatas spend 85% of their time in scrapes and burrows. They maintain humidity in their micro climates that way, and retain the necessary moisture to live. Make sure you have a good substrate on the tank bottom. I am using Aspen Particles. It comes in a press pack. It is probably not the best thing to use, as it is not digestible and Aspen is not the best substrate choice for reptiles, but the tortoise loves it, never eats it, and is able to burrow somewhat into it. It is also easy to clean. You should put about two layers of newspaper on the bottom of the tank under any substrate, so that any urine or water can soak through the substrate, not sit in it. It also makes for a quick clean-up and is safe for the reptile. A really good substrate is a 50/50 mixture of sterile soil (topsoil) and soft sterile playground sand. That can be messy for a small tank though.

Feed Information
Food is an important factor in healthy growth. You should not overfeed your tortoise. Once a day is enough. I would say about to cup of greens for a hatchling up to 1 year. After one year, the juvenile should get no more than 1 cup of greens per day. Full adults, of course, get larger rations. If they are overfed or fed as much as they will eat, they can grow too fast, causing shell problems, bone problems, and mineral deficiencies. Slow, Steady, growth is the key. I use the lid of a Tupperware for feeding and easy cleaning. Make sure your tortoise can easily access its food bowl. The food bowl should be relatively flat. If the tortoise has to climb or reach to get at its food, the tortoise could tip over and not be able to right itself. If this happens and goes undiscovered, worst-case scenario is that the tortoise's lungs could fill up and it will eventually die.

Diet
The majority of their intake should be from a variety of dark, leafy greens, grasses, and some lettuces, but NEVER iceberg. You can feed mixtures of turnip greens, mustard greens, collard greens, chicory, green leaf lettuce, butter and boston lettuces, watercress, dandelion greens and flowers (untreated with pesticides), and fresh grass clippings (untreated). The lettuces such as boston, butter, and green leaf should be given in small amounts as it is not really a roughage, however, the tortoises usually love them. You should only be giving fruits as treats, and in small amounts. My tortoise likes strawberries, melons, papaya, grapes, apples, and carrots (shredded). You can also try some watermelon and squash as treats. Stay away from legumes. No beans, bananas, peas, tomatoes, corn. Also, stay away from spinach and sprouts. You can get fresh grass seedlings trays and other specialty tortoise foods from Pipin's Roost. You can e-mail for further information at: piproost@aol.com. Also, you can feed hibiscus plants and blossoms if they are untreated. You can get great untreated hibiscus plants from A.J. Calisi at T&C Terrariums. You can e-mail him for prices at: a.j.calisi@worldnet.att.net. Please mention my name in your e-mail to A.J. He also has great terrarium plants if you keep chameleons, or other terrarium-type reptiles. Sulcatas can also have Opuntia Cactus. The Cactus King web site is online. They will ship you a variety of edible Opuntia cactus for about $25 or so, which you can then plant and continue to cut from. Their e-mail address is: cactus@cactusking.com. Shake up the diet and give a variety of foods that are allowed, to keep your tortoise interested in meals. Buy different lettuces and experiment on what your tortoise likes. Each tortoise is different and each tortoise has different food preferences, just like people!

Supplementation
It is important to use supplements. I use Rep-Cal 2:1 ratio phosphorous-free calcium supplement. I also use Nekton-Rep multi-vitamins. You should use 2 parts calcium supplement to 1 part vitamin supplement. You can mix up your own pre-rationed calcium/vitamin mixture in a empty salt shaker if you want, to avoid having to open and sprinkle from two different containers all the time. You should sprinkle the 2:1 ratio mixture on the food every day, or at least 3 times per week for optimum vitamin supplementation. With my tortoise, I supplement every day. If the supplements are too powdery on top of the food, just spray with a little water to dissolve it into the greens. I use a regular plant mister filled with water, which I keep on hand.

PRACTICAL CARE & BREEDING OF THE HORSFIELD'S OR RUSSIAN TORTOISE

PRACTICAL CARE & BREEDING OF THE HORSFIELD'S OR RUSSIAN TORTOISE IN CAPTIVITY

Trade in the Horsfield's or Russian tortoise has unfortunately greatly expanded following the disintegration of the former Soviet Union. Repeated seizures of illegal shipments have now resulted in the need for greater practical maintenance information being made available as many more enthusiasts may find themselves encountering this species.
Sick or injured specimens
A high proportion of legally traded and an even higher proportion of seized specimens are severely stressed and suffer from a variety of traumatic injuries and contagious diseases. The shipping conditions frequently leave much to be desired, and most animals are subject to faecal contamination and extreme temperature variations in transit. Of particular note is Hexamita parva, a highly damaging parasite of the renal and urinary system. This organism has been identified frequently in T. horsfieldi and if untreated leads to rapid weight loss, dehydration and terminal renal failure. It responds to oral dosing with Metronidazole (Flagyl) at 260mg/kg. Other symptoms include thick or slimy urine which often smells strongly of ammonia. It is imperative that hydration is maintained in affected animals and that precautions are taken to prevent contagion of adjacent stock. Routine urine tests should be carried out on all suspect animals. It should also be noted that Horsfield's tortoises have proved susceptible to epidemics of viral disease (Lange, et.al. 1989) and should be regarded as potential carriers of Herpes-type organisms. All other health problems are diagnosed, and treated, as per T. hermanni or T. graeca.
Mixing of stock and quarantine
It is highly inadvisable to mix T. horsfieldi with other species. Not only are there potential health risks in so doing, but the structure and behaviour of T. horsfieldi renders them incompatible with most other tortoises. For example, male T. horsfieldi are typically highly aggressive and can inflict severe bites, especially around the face and eyes. Females are also poorly protected against the "butting" or "ramming" behaviour of species such as T. graeca or T. ibera (a behaviour pattern not engaged in by male Horsfield's). Severe traumatic injuries are a frequent consequence of mixing Horsfield's with other species. No safe minimum quarantine period can be recommended even where 'new' Horsfield's are to be introduced to existing colonies of the same species: 12 months should be adequate to eliminate most cases of Hexamita, but indefinite quarantine may be necessary to offer complete protection against viral (or mycoplasma) organisms. Routine worming is also recommended before new stock is introduced to old.
Basic housing
This species has a high tolerance of both extreme heat and extreme cold, and in the wild survives these conditions by either hibernating or aestivating. In captivity, it is essential to provide a very secure pen as these tortoises are exceptionally agile and persistent escapers, capable of burrowing underground tunnels several metres long. They are also excellent climbers. External pen walls should ideally be 'dug in' with at least 30mm of wire mesh set into the ground. In summer, T. horsfieldi is active outdoors throughout Britain and most of Europe, but should be provided with good protection from rain and damp, to both of which it has a poor tolerance. A cold, dry Horsfield's tortoise can survive for some considerable time; a cold, damp Horsfield's tortoise is likely to succumb to pneumonia very quickly. In prolonged spells of cold and wet weather, T. horsfieldi is best removed to an indoor terrarium equipped with a basking lamp and dry substrate.
Feeding
Essentially as for T. graeca and T. hermanni. A high fibre, low protein and calcium rich diet will ensure good digestive tract function and smooth growth. Horsfield's tortoises fed on cat or dog food frequently die from renal failure or from impacted bladder stones of solidified urates. Avoid over reliance upon 'supermarket' greens and fruits which typically contain inadequate fibre levels, excessive pesticide residues and are too rich in sugar. Fruits should be given very sparingly to this species as they frequently lead to diarrhoea and colic.
Hibernation
As for T. graeca and T. hermanni. Horsfield's tortoises can prove difficult to 'settle' in hibernation, and may scrape the bottom out of cardboard boxes. A plywood box is recommended. Recently imported specimens SHOULD NOT BE HIBERNATED unless they are in excellent condition. Suspect specimens should be over wintered in a warm, dry and well ventilated terrarium. An indoor pen is infinitely better than a 'fishtank' type terrarium.

References:
Highfield, A. C. (1992) Testudo horsfiedli (GRAY 1844) A brief review of its Biology, Ecology and Captive Breeding. ASRA Monographs Vol.2(2):9-15.
Lange, Herbst, Wiechert, Schliesser (1989) Elektronenmikroskopischer Nachweis von Herpesviren bei einem Massensterben von griechischen Landschildkroten (Testudo hermanni) und Vierzehenschildkroten (Agrionemys horsfieldii). Tierarztl. Prax. 17:319-321

Care of the Eastern Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina carolina)

Care of the Eastern Box Turtle (Terrapene carolina carolina)

By Devin Edmonds

The Eastern Box Turtle is one of the many common "pet" turtles. Unfortunately lots of people buy one thinking it can be kept in a 10 gallon aquarium with some lettuce and a water dish. Most of the turtles kept that way end up dead after a week or two. Their care is much more complex than this and I feel sorry for all the box turtles who have died because of this. Eastern Box Turtles are very active and intelligent creatures, therefore they will require a large cage, preferably outside. A 30 gallon tank is the minimum for one box turtle; for 2, a 75 gallon is needed. I recommend making some sort of box turtle pen in your back yard if you live where the climate is suttible for keeping one outdoors. Click here to find out how to make one.They live from south Main down through Georgia and then west to Michigan. I have tried many substrates and have found that the best ones are bark chippings and this product for reptiles called bed-a-beast. Each one has its advantages and disadvantages.Bed a beast is messy and hard to clean up and change.The biggest disadvantage to bark chippings is that while your turtle is feeding it may ingest some of them. A good way to prevent your turtle from eating the bark chippings is to make sure your animal's food is always kept in a dish at feeding time. Which ever one you use you should mist there cage every couple days to make sure that it doesn't get to dry in there cage. Along with a substrate in your turtle's cage you will also need some sort of hide box, water dish and food dish. You can simply construct a hide box out of a small cardboard box, or there should be a variety of ones for sale at your local pet shop. You want a hide box that is big enough for your turtle to get into or under but not so big that your turtle will feel insicure. If you have room in your tank I would suggest sinking a shallow (no more than two inches deep) pan into your tanks substrate so that your turtle can bath and drink. You should change the water if it starts to look dirty or get in the habit of changing it once every week. All a food dish has to be is a small dish that can hold lettuce, blueberries and all those other vegtables that your turtle will eat. If you are using bark chippings you may want to put a nother food dish in the cage for insects. The tempeture in the cage should be between 70 and 85 fahrenhieit with a basking spot of 95. If it drops into the low 60's for to long your turtle will probobly start to hibernate. You can tell if this is happening if your box turtle has stopped eating and is starting to dig and burrow more.The heat can be provided with an under tank heat pad. Never use "hot rocks" as they can burn your turtle. I also think that full spectrum lighting would be good but isn't neccesary if you take your turtle out side often. You do need some sort of lighting though. Eastern Box Turtles need a large range of food. They are omnivores so they need plants and animals to eat. For the plant half they can be fed any green leafy vegetable, except iceberg lettuce which has few nutrients in it and should never be fed except as occasional treats. They also like apples, carrots, potatoes, yams, dandelion stems and mine really likes blueberries, along any other fruit or vegetable that you or I eat. Now, for the animal half, your turtle is going to need to be fed about 12 crickets or an earth worm about every 2 weeks. You can also offer your turtle mealworms, live pinky mice and beetles from your yard. One word of advice to the beginner: turtle keeper, do not feed your turtle the prepared food at your pet shop as a sole diet. For the most part, this was an overview of their care and not a full care sheet. If you still need info on box turtles, E-mail me or buy the book Box Turtles by Jordan Patterson, (TFH publications, 1994).

Care sheet by Devin Edmonds

KINIXYS - THE AFRICAN HINGEBACK TORTOISE

KINIXYS - THE AFRICAN HINGEBACK TORTOISE

There are four currently recognized species of African hingeback tortoise (although several taxonomic revisions are in progress) and all have a slightly different appearance. All hinge-backs are characterized by a distinctive single hinge located at about 3/4 of the way along the back of the tortoise. This is an important point as sometimes people confuse them with American box tortoises which are also hinged but with a double hinge on the plastron (underside).
The four species of African hingeback are;
Kinixys homeana (Home's Hinged Tortoise) A medium-brown colored tortoise with a light colored head and large eyes. The shell is sharply angular and falls off quickly at the back end. The species is found in Nigeria, the Congo and the Ivory Coast areas.
Kinixys belliana (Bells Hinged Tortoise) Much more 'normal' looking, this tortoise has a rounded back, and a lighter colored shell with dark markings. Mainly from the Sudan, Tanzania and is generally widespread throughout central and southern Africa. It prefers a drier grassland habitat to the forest or riverbank habitats favored by K. homeana and K. erosa. There are several subspecies and the Bell's hingeback tortoise is subject to wide variation throughout its extensive range.
Kinixys natalensis (Natal Hinged Tortoise) A small tortoise which typically measures only 10 - 14 cm. It inhabits dry and rocky areas at an altitude of 300m - 1,000m so has somewhat different requirements from most other Kinixys sp.
Kinixys erosa (Schweigger's Hinged Tortoise) Similar in appearance to K. homeana this tortoise is the largest species of the genus. Adults may surpass 30 cm. K. erosa inhabits moist riverbanks and tropical jungles from the Congo to Uganda.
Diet
Unlike most land tortoises African Hingebacks are omnivorous and are insectivores. In the wild their diets include snails, slugs, millipedes as well as fallen fruits, grasses and plants. In captivity all three commonly encountered species generally enjoy earthworms, mealworms, slugs, bananas, tomatoes, peaches (a great favorite with ours), mushrooms, lettuce, melon and sliced orange. A small quantity of low fat dog food is also appropriate for this species but excessive amounts must not be given otherwise carapace deformities and liver or kidney damage may result. Live food in the form of crickets, snails, earthworms and zoophobas should also be provided at least once per week. Rapidly growing specimens, and egg-laying females, should be provided with calcium supplement such as 'Repcal' daily.
Environment
All species of hingeback tortoise require constantly warm surroundings. K. belliana can tolerate drier environments than either erosa or homeana which both require very high levels of humidity. Failure to provide this will result in severe eye inflammation, possible respiratory problems and kidney disease. Hingeback tortoises which are kept too dry will remain lethargic and inactive. K. natalensis is a possible exception to this general rule. All hingeback tortoises must be provided with constant access to a bathing and drinking area. A plant tray is ideal and should be filled to around 2'' depth with fresh water changed daily. This is absolutely vital to health and survival. An occasional spray of fine mist from a hand plant sprayer is also appreciated by most specimens. Temperatures for Kinixys should be maintained at circa 24 oC - 27 oC fairly constantly - although some K. belliana enjoy an occasional session of basking under a 'hot spot' of up to 30 o C. The best sort of terrarium lighting for Kinixys species is undoubtedly full spectrum fluorescent (Reptisun 5.0 or similar). This provides 'natural' type light which rich in UV It can make all the difference and is especially suited to this genus as it does not produce too much radiant heat. Most hinge-back tortoises, especially K. erosa and K. homeana, actively dislike bright light and prefer a well shaded, warm and very moist habitat. In the terrarium, a good substrate for these tortoises is organic potting compost mixed with fine sand and sphagnum moss. This should be changed regularly. Underfloor heating is well suited to these species, and provided the substrate is kept moist, this type of heating can also assist in raising ambient humidity within the terrarium.
In fine weather, Kinixys species can be allowed outside, but as the terrarium will provide their home for most of the time it should be large, comfortable and well equipped. Most hingeback tortoises become highly active during and just after warm, summer rain. It should be noted that ''fish-tank'' type vivaria are categorically not suitable for long-term housing of tortoises. If maintained indoors, a large terrarium will be required. We recommend a minimum area of at least 20 square feet per tortoise. Hinge-back tortoises should always be provided with plenty of leafy cover as they tend to be rather secretive animals and spend quite a lot of time hiding; they are also often very active at dawn and dusk so this can be a good time to offer food. Our own hingebacks are generally fed about 3 times per week - don't remove the food immediately if they decline to eat, as these tortoises tend to like their food squashy and ripe!
Diseases
Newly obtained specimens must be subject to a period of quarantine before being allowed to mix with any existing stock. Tropical tortoises carry many different parasites some of which are extremely contagious and pathogenic. Isolate new specimens, obtain urine and feces samples and have these examined by your veterinary surgeon for nematodes (worms), ciliate organisms (Balantidium etc.) and flagellates (especially Hexamita parva in the urine). Externally 'Ticks' may also be observed and must be removed.
Bacterial diseases are also a major problem in all reptile collections. Bacterial infections of the mouth, lungs, shell and eyes are particularly common and must be detected as soon as they occur. Abscesses are also frequently encountered and once again early detection and prompt expert treatment make all the difference. Check animals carefully and regularly for any unusual symptoms and seek expert advice immediately you even suspect that there may be a problem.
Hibernation
Hingeback tortoises should not be hibernated! They will require warm and moist vivarium accommodation over winter.
Copy Right 1991-1997 Tortoise Trust

Red Eared Slider

Red Eared Slider
Trachemys scripta elegans


The Red Eared Slider is distributed across the whole of Eastern USA and southwards into Mexico. The sliders ('slider' refers to their habit of scurrying into water when frightened) are currently placed in the genus Trachemys. Agassiz first described Trachemys in 1887. The sliders have also been placed in synonymy with both Pseudemys and Chrysemys at one time or another. In 1986, Seidel and Smith returned them to Trachemys, which is where they remain today. The only species occurring in North America is Trachemys Scripta, for example; T.s. elegans (Red-eared slider), T.s. scripta (yellow-bellied slider), T.s. gaigeae (Big-bend slider), and T.s. ornata (ornate slider). gaigeae (Big-bend slider), and T.s. ornata (ornate slider).

The red eared slider is easily identified by the red stripes behind their eyes. The differences between a red-eared male and female are listed below, but the earliest that one can tell whether a terrapin is male or female is at approximately seven months:



The equipment that you'll need to create a suitable environment for the terrapin is as follows:

A suitable sized tank
Heater and thermostat
Filters and air pump
Light bulbs
Suitable depth of swimming water
Dry area
Thermometer
Red eared sliders can grow up to 30cm (12in) in length so the size of tank needed will depend greatly on the size and number of sliders you intend to keep. The best sizes of tanks for most sliders are 20- 30- and 55-gallon aquariums, depending on the size and number of specimens. The ideal water temperature is 24-30C (75-86F). They require a suitable basking area out of the water. Red-Eared sliders must be kept in warm water to encourage them to eat. Sliders must have full spectrum lighting. This replicates and provides radiant energy given off in nature by the sun. During this process a collection of vitamins (mostly B3) is absorbed into the recipient's body through exposure to the light. DO NOT use "black light" - turtles benefit less from black lights, and frequently a turtle's vision will be damaged due to the intense quality of the beam (it can result in permanent blindness within a short space of time).

A balanced diet is needed to provide all the essential nutrients, minerals and vitamins that a terrapin needs for growth, bone and shell formation and repair of damaged tissues. Terrapins are mainly carnivores, but they do need a small amount of fruit and vegetable in their diet for it to be balanced. Meat contains protein, a little fat and some minerals and vitamins. Fish contains protein, calcium in the bone and fat and vitamins A and D in the liver oils. Calcium is strongly needed in a terrapin's diet, as a deficiency in either calcium, vitamin D or both will result in soft-shell which is difficult to cure. Fruit and vegetables contain mainly vitamins (A, B1, B2 and C). Below I have taken a table from a book called Understanding Terrapins by Ruth Midgley. This basically sums up what should be in a terrapin's diet (I would recommend buying/reading this book as it is mainly aimed at people intending to keep red-eared sliders).



Allow the terrapin to exercise outside the tank. Maybe let him/her roam around in the garden (when the weather is right). Do not allow the terrapin to bury itself in the soil or grass, as they are difficult to find. DO NOT keep terrapins in the sun for more than a few minutes; if they are kept longer it may kill them. Once the terrapin has finished exercising, wash off all the soil with luke-warm water. If the terrapin cannot exercise in the garden, allow it to exercise on a carpeted floor.

This sheet only briefly outlines a red-eared slider's requirements. If you are seriously considering buying one and keeping it healthy you must read round this creature and find out as much as possible. The red-eared slider may be one of the most commonly kept herptiles - it is relatively cheap to buy, and the young do look particularly delightful, but it is surprising that many people buy this herptile with no knowledge of what they have bought, and not even providing the bare essentials. People come back with (what was a healthy terrapin) an unhealthy terrapin to the pet shop because they could not be bothered to look after it properly. If you cannot provide a red-eared slider (or any other animal in fact) the bare essentials, do not buy it. If you did it would be wrong and cruel to keep it.

Sulcata Tortoise, African Spur thigh Tortoise

Common Name: Sulcata Tortoise, African Spur thigh Tortoise

Latin name Geochelone sulcata

Native to: Southern Sahara desert region ranging from Senegal, Mauritania, Mali, Chad, Sudan, Ethiopia

Size: The largest shell length ranges up to 36 inches and weighs up to 240 lbs.

Life span: If taken care of properly a Sulcata tortoise can live up to 70 years.
General appearance: The sulcata tortoise is a uniform color of brown to golden yellow
color. Growth rings on each scute appear on the carapace. There are also welldefined
spurs on the rear legs, which gives it its name African spur thigh tortoise.
The skin is thick which may serve to reduce fluid loss through transpiration.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Because of the size of the tortoise, you will need to build a pen. If
you live in a climate that is warm enough, the pen can be built outside and
they can live outside all year round. A shelter with a ramp should be provided for these outdoor pens. If you live in a climate that the winter does get cold, an average sized adult will need a six-foot by six-foot indoor grazing area and a six-foot by six-foot basking area. If the tortoise does not get enough room to exercise the tortoise may lose muscle mass. When housed outdoors, fencing should extend at least two feet underground because these tortoises like to burrow.

Temperature: An ambient temperature should be kept at 72º –85º F. A basking
area should be kept on one side of the enclosure at a temperature of 85º -
89º F. At night, the temperature can drop down to 70º - 75º F. It is a good
practice to let the tortoise soak at least twice a week.

Heat/Light: It is important that adequate lighting is provided. Lighting must
provide UVA and UVB for proper skeletal and shell development. Incandescent lights may be used to provide basking spots. Ceramic emitters or under-the-tank heaters may also be used to heat the enclosure. Heated rocks are NOT recommended.

Substrate: Sulcata tortoises like to dig and burrow. It is important to give the
tortoise something that they can burrow in. A mix of 50% sterile play sand
and a 50% organic soil works well. Hay with newspaper can also be used.
Other suitable substrates are alfalfa pellets, aspen particles, or Lizard
Litter®. Some people also consider using Carefresh ®. Pine, cedar, and
oyster shells should be avoided.

Environment: These tortoises come from a desert region therefore require a dry,
arid enclosure. A hide box is often beneficial. Many people use a
Dogloo® and put a pig blanket in the housing for warmth in large enclosures.

Diet: Sulcatas tortoises are grazers and need high fiber and low protein diet. Mixed
grasses, orchard hay, timothy hay, optunia pads and berries, hibiscus leaves and
flowers, clove, prickly pear pads, dandelion greens and flower, Dutch clover, rose
leaves and petals, sow thistle, romaine, and red leaf lettuce. You can also give
mulberry leaves and grape leaves in limited quantities. Animal protein should be
avoided. Fruits should be fed sparingly if at all.

Maintenance: The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily. A thorough cleaning should
be performed on a regular basis. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant.
Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure before replacing the substrate and
placing the tortoise back in the enclosure. It is always recommended to wash
your hands thoroughly after handling the tortoise or cleaning the cage or cage
accessories.

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Russian Tortoise

Common Name: Russian Tortoise

Latin name: Testudo horsfieldii

Native to: Russia, Ukraine, Pakistan, and Western China

Size: 8” - 10”

Life span: Estimated to 100 years if proper care is given

General appearance: The Russian tortoise has highly developed claws with four toes per foot, which are used for digging. The carapace is rounded and has a stocky appearance. The shell is greenish to olive-brown in color with diffuse patches of dark brown or black color. There is no movable hinge on the plastron.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: It is best to keep your tortoise outside where temperatures are not too extreme. If you live in an area where temperatures fall below 40° F your tortoises should be moved indoors. If you bring the tortoise indoors then a minimum of a 30-gallon enclosure is required.

Temperature: Temperatures should be kept at 70° - 80° F for day temperatures with a basking spot of 85° F. Night temperatures should be 65° – 75° F. Heat rocks are NOT
recommended as burns may result from their use.

Heat/Light: It is important that adequate lighting is provided. Lighting must provide UVA and UVB for proper skeletal and shell development. Incandescent lights may be used to provide basking spots. Ceramic emitters or under-the-tank heaters may also be used to heat the enclosure

Substrate: Substrates such as Bed-a-Beast™, newspaper, aspen, indoor/outdoor carpeting and lizard litter are all adequate. You may wish to provide deeper substrate for your tortoise so that it may dig. It is important to remember that this species comes from arid climates and the humidity must be kept low. If the humidity is too high the tortoise can become prone to pneumonia, shell problems, as well as eye infections.

Environment: In the wild, these tortoises come from a fairly dry environment and often can be found along rocky hillsides with many places available for cover.

Diet: Russian tortoises require a high fiber, low protein, and calcium rich diet. Fruits should not be offered regularly since they contain high levels of sugar, which can create digestive problems. Do not feed high protein items since excessive protein may cause renal failure or impacted bladder stones which can result in the death of the tortoise. A mixture of edible grasses and clovers, hibiscus leaves and flowers, alfalfa and other grass hays, water cress, dandelion, rose leaves and petals, sow thistle, romaine lettuce, red leaf lettuce, endive, escarole, kale, cactus pods can be fed to your tortoise. If feeding lawn clippings or plants from the garden it is important to make sure that the surrounding area is not chemically treated. There are also commercially produced foods that can be used to supplement feedings, though it should not be the sole source of food. Fresh water should be offered at all times. Your tortoise will also appreciate a 10-minute soak in a
bath of tepid water. This will ensure proper hydration.

Maintenance: The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily. A thorough cleaning should be performed on a regular basis. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure before replacing the substrate and placing the tortoise back in the enclosure. It is always recommended to wash your hands thoroughly after handling the tortoise or cleaning the cage and cage accessories.


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Red Foot Tortoise

Common Name: Red Foot Tortoise

Latin Name: Geochelone carbonaria

Native to: Tropical South America

Size: 10-14 inches at maturity; males are larger than females of same age.

Life Span: 40-50 years

General appearance: Carapace (top part of shell) is black with the center of each scute being yellow. The plastron (bottom part of the shell) is yellow. In mature males the rear of the plastron is concave. There are red scales on the head and legs.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Should be tropical, (high humidity). Space requirements should be at least 2 sq. ft. per inch of shell length. A 4 in. youngster would need 8 sq. ft. They need a shallow pan of water approximately ⅓ of their shell height to drink from and soak in. A source of UV light is recommended.

Temperature: Temperature during the day should be 85-90 deg. F. at one end of the enclosure and 70°-75° F at the other. This can be accomplished with the use of a heat lamp or pad (waterproof).

Substrate: Newspaper, aspen, Cyprus are a few. (But not cedar or pine).

Diet: Their diet consists of vegetables, fruit and some protein. Broccoli, cauliflower and Brussels sprouts should be fed sparingly. Protein could consist of earthworms, mealworms, crickets, etc. They should be fed 2-3 times a week, with their food being dusted with a D3 vitamin and calcium. A commercially prepared tortoise food is also a recommended source of food.

Maintenance: Changing the substrate and water when soiled is a must. Handlers are advised to wash their hands thoroughly after handling any reptile or reptile cage furnishings.


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Red-Eared Slider

Common name: Red-Eared Slider

Latin name: Trachemys scripta elegans

Native to: Mississippi River valley and tributaries from Indiana to the Gulf of Mexico

Size: Average adult is 5-8 inches; females are larger than males of same age.

Life span: 15-25 Years

General appearance: Young are bright green with yellow markings and a red stripe just behind the eyes. Colors dull with age.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Should be mostly aquatic. Minimum dimensions for tank are: width - 3 times
the shell length and length - 6 times the shell length. Minimum depth of the water
should be as deep as the shell is wide. A basking area is needed to allow the turtle
to get out of the water to dry completely. UV lighting can be beneficial.

Temperature: The water should be 70-750 F and can be maintained with a submersible
aquarium heater. The basking area should be 84-880F during the daylight period.
This can be maintained with an incandescent light.

Substrate: Substrate is not recommended. Frequent water changes make it difficult to
clean.

Diet: Feeding should be daily with all they can eat in 45 minutes. Remove all food remaining after that time, except for greens. Just because they beg for food does not necessarily mean they're hungry, this is a trained condition. Diet should be at least 65-85% meat consisting of commercial turtle food, trout chow, beef heart, cooked chicken, fish live or fresh caught (not frozen). Meat should be dusted once a week with a good herp vitamin containing D3. Dark green leafy vegetables can be used to fill the rest of the diet.

Maintenance: Water should be clean and clear. Waste should be removed whenever it is found. Filtration prolongs the time between water changes, but should not be used as a substitute for water changes. Wastewater should not be emptied into a sink that is used for food preparation or personal hygiene. Hands and any other part of your body that comes in contact with the water should be washed thoroughly with anti-bacterial soap.


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Painted turtle

Common Name: Painted turtle

Latin Name: Chrysemys picta

Native to: Eastern USA depending on which of the four subspecies.

Size Range: Average adult is 5-8 inches; females are larger than males of same age.

Life span: 15-25 Years

General Appearance: All have a dark black top shell (carapace) with a border containing red markings. The under shell (plastron) can be yellow with red and black markings or red with black markings depending on the subspecies. The head, limbs, neck and tail are dark with yellow or red markings.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Should be aquatic. Minimum dimensions for tanks are: width - 3 times the
shell length and length - 6 times the shell length. Minimum depth of the water
should be as deep as the shell is wide. A basking area is needed to allow the turtle
to get completely out of the water to dry. UV lighting can be beneficial.

Temperature: The water should be 70-750 F and can be maintained with a submersible
aquarium heater. The basking area should be 84-880 F during the daylight period.
This can be maintained with an incandescent light.

Substrate: Substrate is not recommended, as frequent water changes make it difficult to clean.

Diet: Feeding should be done every other day with all they can eat in 45 minutes. Remove all food after that time, except for the greens. Just because they beg for food does not necessarily mean they're hungry, this is a trained condition. Diet should be at least 65-85% meat consisting of commercial turtle food, trout chow, beef heart, cooked chicken, fish live or fresh caught (not frozen). Meat should be dusted once a week with a good herp vitamin containing D3.Dark green leafy vegetables can be used to fill the rest of the diet.

Maintenance: Water should be clean and clear. Waste should be removed whenever it is found. Filtration prolongs the time between water changes, but should not be used as a substitute for water changes. Wastewater should not be emptied into a sink that is used for food preparation or personal hygiene. Hands and any other part of your body that comes in contact with the water should be washed thoroughly with anti-bacterial soap.


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Malaysian Box Turtle

Common Name: Malaysian Box Turtle

Latin Name: Cuora amboinensis

Native to: Southeast Asia and Indonesia Size Range: 8 - 1 0 inches

Lifespan: 30-35 years

General Appearance: The Malaysian box turtle has three yellow stripes on the head.
The carapace is dark olive in color.

Housing Requirements:

Enclosure: This box turtle requires at least a 20-long aquarium. The aquarium
should provide half land and half water, with a minimum depth of 6 inches
of water. This may be achieved using pea gravel. Plants may be added to make the enclosure more attractive.

Temperature: The water temperature should be maintained at 80 - 85 F.
Temperature on land should be at least 78 F.

Heat/Light: It is important that adequate lighting is provided. Lighting must
provide UVA and UVB for proper skeletal and shell development. Incandescent lights may be used to provide basking spots. Ceramic emitters or under-the-tank heaters may also be used to heat the enclosure.

Diet: Malaysian box turtles are omnivorous. Various mixed greens, fruits in limited
quantities, mushrooms, crickets, and wax worms can be fed to this species. It is
recommended to offer food once or twice a week.

Handling and Hygiene: After handling your tortoise it is always recommended that you
wash your hands with antibacterial soap or use an antibacterial lotion.

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Leopard Tortoise

Common Name: Leopard Tortoise Latin Name: Geochelone pardalis

Native to: Savannahs of Africa from Sudan to the southern Cape.

Size: Leopard tortoises are the fourth largest tortoises in the world and the second largest on Mainland Africa. They can reach carapace sizes of over two feet in length and weigh over 100 pounds. Most specimens usually only reach carapace lengths of 15 -18 inches and weigh 30 – 50 pounds. Males are sometimes larger than females. Please keep this size in mind when purchasing or adopting a small juvenile or hatchling leopard tortoise because they will get larger and size is one of the reasons why these tortoises are offered for adoption.

Life span: Like all of the larger tortoise species, the leopard tortoise can live to 100 years or more.

General appearance: This tortoise has a yellowish or buff colored highly domed carapace with black blotches. Males have longer and thicker tails then females and have slightly concave plastrons.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Hatchling and juvenile leopard tortoises can be kept in larger aquariums or in mesh enclosures (such as Repteriums). As the tortoise gets larger a large custom built will be needed to adequately house this species. A pen size of about 10 feet by 10 feet in size for a mediums sized tortoise. When possible, it is best for the tortoise to have an outdoor enclosure.

Temperature: Leopard tortoises require daytime temperatures of 70° - 90° F. Nighttime
temperatures should be 70° - 75° F and should not drop below 60° F. This species should not be hibernated.

Heat/Light: When possible these tortoises do best in outdoor enclosures where they can take advantage of natural UVB light and heat from the sun. During colder months they will need to be setup in an indoor enclosure with heat and UVB light. Newer mercury vapor bulbs can provide both heat and UVB light in a single bulb. Fluorescent UVB bulbs can also be used for light. Additional heat can be provided with ceramic emitters, daytime basking bulbs, infrared heat bulbs and even under-tank heaters can be used. Under no circumstances should a heat rock should be used as they can cause serious burns to your tortoise.

Substrate: If kept in an outdoor pen then normal grasses can be used in the pen. Indoor enclosures can use a variety of substrates such as aspen shavings, compressed paper products (like Carefresh or CellSorb), newspaper or indoor/outdoor carpeting. Pine and cedar shavings should be avoided because they can cause long-term health issues.

Environment: Leopard tortoises come from a warmer and dryer part of the world and do not do well with high humidity or cooler temperatures. Because of this fact, these tortoises should never be hibernated.

Diet: This species requires a high fiber diet and should consist of 70% - 75% of grasses and hay. Use a variety of hays (timothy, alfalfa, orchard grass, etc.) to provide variety. Large amounts of lettuces and fruits should not be provided, though occasional small amounts are OK. The fruit and pads of the prickly pear (Opuntia sp.) are also enjoyed. Meat and other high protein items should be avoided as they lead to long-term health issues. Calcium and vitamin D3 supplements should be provided on a regular basis (two to three times per week depending on the diet being fed). Care should be taken not to over-supplement as this can cause health issues as well.

Maintenance: The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily. A thorough cleaning should be performed on a regular basis. A 5% bleach solution is an excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure before replacing the substrate and placing the tortoise back in the enclosure. It is always recommended to wash your hands thoroughly after handling the tortoise or cleaning the cage or cage accessories.


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