African Bullfrog (Pixie Frog)

African Bullfrog (Pixie Frog)
Pyxicephalus edulis, Pyxicephalus adsperus

Description:
Apparently, there are two different "Pixie" frogs, P. adsperus and P. edulis. One is a "dwarf" and the other is not. There is a lot of conflicting information on the net about these, I don't believe most people actually know there are two pixies and just label what they have with the first latin name that they see attached to pixie. Therefore I'm not sure what characteristics are used to differentiate between the two. However, I'm talking here about the bigger (non dwarf) version of the two (Pyxicephalus adsperus).
The African bullfrog, or Pixie frog as it is often called (because of it's latin name- NOT because it's as cute as a fairy!), is one of the largest frogs in South Africa.
It measures up to 9.5 inches (24 cm) and may weigh over two kilograms. It has a chubby body with a broad head, and has olive-greenish colored bumpy skin. The male usually has a yellow throat while the female's throat is cream. Only its hind toes are webbed. The female is much smaller than the male (12 cm or 4.45 inches), which is pretty weird, 'cause usually its the female frogs that are bigger!
Buyer beware: These guys look really really cute when they are teeny. I almost got one for myself until I did a bit of research and saw what they turn into when they grow up!! Don't be fooled by their apparent small size inmost pet stores: baby frogs still grow up to eat lots and lots ...and lots!
Habitat:
Provide about 6cm of soft substrate to burrow into. Try getting some potting soil with no chemicals in it....They live well in warmer temperatures - up to 83�F.. A (big) regular terrestrial or half and half tank terrarium seems ideal housing, as long as there is something for them to burrow into. This substrate can consist of pre-sterilized chopped oak and maple leaves, sphagnum moss and river sand, or you can go for some regular potting soil as long as it doesnt contain any chemicals..You can put a few large pieces of cork bark or bogwood on top and add a shallow water pan towards one corner.
Read more information on this subject in the Housing Your Pet Frog section.
(see the Frog Doctor for details on illness prevention.)
Diet:
This is where things get a bit hairy for my taste. These guys eat lots and lots of really big bugs, fish (guppies, I am told, are pretty good feeders) and mice. This frog has toothlike projections on its lower jaw to restrain struggling prey. They will eat pretty much anything that will fit in their mouths or that they can overpower, including mice, lizards, and other frogs. Large insects and worms should be left on the rocks, though these guys will eat them from the surface of the water too. Dead mice are best offered either by hand or using forceps (again, get the kind with round balls on the ends so you don't risk injuring the frog when he lunges at the food!) It is generally recommended that you house these frogs alone (except for breeding) in order to avoid cannibalism. Eeek!
Habits:
These guys blow up like balloons when freaked out! They spend much of the year underground, but come to the surface after a heavy rain to breed.
By the way, the males of this species are known to give a hearty bite now and then, so watch those fingers!
Miscelleneous:
These guys come from: Africa! (surprise!) Actually, they generally are found eastward and southward from Nigeria. They also live throughout the eastern savanna regions, from Somalia to Port Elizabeth, and west to Angola. Usually, they hang out in open grassland, and if there are any to be found, they'll sit around in puddles. In the dry season, they will burrow into the ground.
Apparently, the natives find them to be a tasty treat!

How to Strut Your Spots With Pride

How to Strut Your Spots With Pride
By Andrea Williams

I invite you to consider the Eastern or Red-spotted Newt. Right now, they are in steady migration from the woods on one side of our driveway to the other side and down the hill to Beard Brook. They are determined critters; you can turn them any which way and they will still manage to right themselves in the correct direction, navigating any obstacle whether it be rock, piles of leaves, or other vegetation. They are on a mission to live out the full definition of their lives.

At a recent conference I attended, Kim George (one of the presenters and author of “Coaching Into Greatness: 4 Steps to Succeeding Business and Life”) discussed the “fallacy of becoming.” It has to do with all the self-talk we generate about not being ready to do this or that. Instead of taking action, we reinforce our uncertainty and trepidation about trying new things with distractions, activities, and plans to do “X” someday… when we’re “ready.”

We need to eliminate the barriers that keep us from doing what we can do. That is what coaching is all about: gaining clarity about what you want, developing strategy about how to get what you want, and then taking action to achieve what you want. Simple. Yet we often hold ourselves back, because we’ve conditioned ourselves to believe we’re not ready.

Newts have a fairly complicated life cycle. They begin their life as an aquatic juvenile and then grow into a 1 3/8 – 3 3/8 inch terrestrial juvenile called a red eft. Efts are brilliantly colored; generally orange-red, but sometimes dull red or orange. During the eft stage, they may travel far from their original location.

According to the Center for Reptile and Amphibian Conservation and Management, “after several years, the eft stage migrates back to breeding sites and transforms into aquatic adults.” Talk about adapting to change.

These fascinating creatures evolve over the course of their lives, adapting to new circumstances and environment. Driven by instinct, the eft meets each new phase not knowing everything about what it is doing (or why), where it will end up, or what it will be on the other side. Yet, with each metamorphosis they begin anew to make their way in the world.

What I love best about Eastern newts is that they “thrive best in a muddy environment.” That sure sounds like life to me!

So, do you succumb to the “fallacy of becoming.” Or like the red eft, do you strike out boldly in this space and time? You already have everything you need to be fully who you are.

Andrea Williams, personal and small business success coach, is the creator of the Fearless, Fabulous Project, a 12-week, step-by-step discovery and rejuvenation process to help you gain clarity and commitment about what is most important to you. If you're ready to pump your life with more fun & fulfillment, check out Andrea's coaching programs and resources now at http://www.FearlessFabulousLife.com and sign up for “Fearless, Fabulous Female,” her free ezine on personal reinvention at midlife.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Andrea_Williams

Here Comes the Cayman

Here Comes the Cayman
By Benjamin Hudson

Porsche has introduced Cayman with the fat-engine, fat-wallet S version, which has a 3.4-liter, 295-horsepower flat-six and a $59,695 price tag.

The Cayman is the older version of Cayman S where the letter S is the short-cut for special. It has an updated 2.7-liter flat-six-higher 11.3:1 compression ratio, five more horses (245), two extra pound-feet of torque (201), and Vario Cam Plus, which adjusts intake-valve lift as well as timing. The intake-valve lift adjuster has the delivers 0-to-60 mph in roughly 5.8 seconds and a top speed of 161 mph.

It has 17-inch wheels, black brake calipers, and a single oval exhaust. Offered as options are Porsche Active Suspension Management, a six-speed manual, a five-speed Tiptronic, a Sports Chrono Package, and 18- and 19-inch wheels. As a whole, the vehicle measures 170.9 x 70.9x 51.4 inches in length, width, and height, respectively.

The Cayman is a mid-engine 2-seat sports car produced by Porsche AG of Germany and was first launched in the 2006 model year. The Cayman is the coupe version of the second generation Porsche Boxster convertible. And like the Boxster, the Cayman is assembled in Finland by Valmet Automotive.

The Cayman coupe and the second generation Boxster convertible have the same mid-engine platform and share many components. These include the front fenders and trunk lid, side doors, headlights and forward portion of the interior. The design of the Cayman's body is the combination of styling cues from two classic Porsches: the 550 Coupé and the 904 Coupe.

But, unlike the Boxster, the Cayman has a large hatchback for access to luggage areas on top and in back of the engine cover. Nevertheless, the suspension design is fundamentally the same as that of the Boxster. The only difference is that it features revised settings appropriate to the increase in chassis stiffness resulting from the Cayman's fixed roof.

Standard on the normal Cayman is a 5-speed manual transaxle. The normal Cayman is powered by a 2.7 litre version of the 3.4 liter six-cylinder boxer engine.

The exclusive use of the new power plants in Caymans ended with the 2007 model year when the Boxster and Boxster S were upgraded with the engine from the respective Cayman model.

The name "Cayman" is said to be an alternate spelling of caiman, a species of reptile closely related to the alligator, and has nothing to do with the Cayman Islands. Porsche has, in fact, donated to a Stuttgart Zoo's caiman exhibit, because of the shared namesakes between the animal and the automobile. And like the Volkswagen Jetta which is equipped with efficient VW Jetta parts, Volkswagen has also equipped this 2007 Porsche Cayman with excellent quality auto parts.

For more about your VW parts needs like VW Jetta parts, visit your trusted online source.

Benjamin Hudson works as a supervisor at one of the top engineering firms in the business district of Louisiana. He is also a freelance journalist and has passion for anything automotive.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Benjamin_Hudson

Golden or Orange Mantella Frog (Mantella aurantiaca)

Golden or Orange Mantella Frog (Mantella aurantiaca)

By Devin Edmonds

Introduction: Golden mantellas are small frogs native to the island of Madagascar. There are only about three small locations on the island where they are found, and they are growing increasingly rare due to habitat destruction. At one time they were the most common species of mantella frog in the pet trade even though they are one of the rarest in the wild. Luckily, more people are having success breeding these frogs and it isn't difficult to locate captive-bred golden mantellas for sale today.

Adult female golden mantellas will grow to a little over 1 inch (2.5 cm) in length, while males are slightly smaller and have a more slender body structure. Male frogs will also call. The call is a quick chirp chirp, very similar to the sound of an adult brown cricket. They range in color from solid bright orange to solid deep red. They are brightly colored to warn predators that they are poisonous, but fortunately captive-bred golden mantellas are not.

Cage: Although golden mantella frogs are small animals, they do best when provided with plenty of room. Males are very territorial and will often fight over potential breeding sites and feeding areas. When they are kept in groups the keeper will get to observe this behavior as well as increase the possibility that the frogs will breed. For a group of six adult frogs, a 20 gallon long aquarium that measures 30 inches long by 12 inches wide by 12 inches high (76cm by 30cm by 30cm) would be large enough provided that there are plenty of visual barriers and hiding spots for each frog.

Golden mantella frogs can be kept in both living terrariums as well is simple hygienic setups. I prefer living terrariums because they are more visually appealing than simple setups. To learn how to create a terrarium that is suitable for golden mantella frogs please see the article I wrote about tropical terrariums.

A simple setup will also work well as long as regular cage cleaning is done. A substrate of moist paper towels or foam rubber works very well for simple enclosures. Clippings of live pothos or fake plants can be scattered around the cage for hiding areas along with curved pieces of cork bark, clumps of moist moss, rocks, pieces of driftwood, and crumpled up moist paper towels. Simple setups are great for quarantining new wild-caught frogs and can be very practical for long term housing as well provided that they are cleaned regularly.

In either of the two types of setups there are a few main things that are needed for golden mantella frogs to live well in captivity. The substrate needs to hold moisture and shouldn't stick to the frogs. Gravel and reptile carpeting are two substrates that should not be used. There should be multiple hiding spots and ground cover so that the frogs feel secure. There should be as many hiding spots as there are frogs in the cage, or at least enough visual barriers to let the frogs get out of view from one another. The cage should also have a very secure cover because golden mantella frogs will escape through any hole or gap that they can fit into.

Temperature & Humidity: Golden mantella frogs are sensitive to temperature. They need a moist, cool spot in the cage that will never rise above 78F (26C). It's best if the whole cage can be kept between 68F (20C) and 74F (23C) during the day with drop to around 65F (18C) at night. High temperatures are not tolerated well, and most frogs will have heat-related muscle spasms that lead to death when exposed to temperatures above 80F (27C) for extended periods of time. They tolerate cool conditions well and do fine if temperatures occasionally fall to as low as 58F (14C).

There are a number of things that can be done to keep the temperature inside the cage cool. The best, and easiest way to control the temperature of the cage, is to keep the terrarium in a cool room such as a basement or air conditioned living room. A small (12v or under) computer CPU fan can be placed above an area of ventilation to increase air circulation and prevent the temperature inside the terrarium from rising much above room temperature. This can be put on a timer so that it goes on during the hottest time of the day, or it can just be turned on when the weather is hot. Spraying the terrarium with water normally brings the temperature down a few degrees, as does placing ice packs or ice cubes above the cage over a ventilated area. Light fixtures often produce reasonable amounts of heat and can be turned off during warm days.

Golden mantellas do best when the humidity in the terrarium is kept high. They will desiccate quickly if the terrarium dries out, and are often very shy when the humidity is kept low. The humidity level inside of the cage should stay between 70% and 100% during most of the year. To achieve this, restrict ventilation and mist the cage regularly. Moving water features, such as drip walls and waterfalls, can also be used to help increase humidity. See Waterfalls and Drip Walls for more information about creating a water feature.

Water: A shallow water dish or area of clean water should be provided throughout most of the year. Golden mantella frogs are not talented swimmers and can drown in deep water if there is not an easy way to get out. If tap water is used, make sure to treat it with tap water conditioner to remove chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals. Bottled spring water can be used instead of tap water.

Food: Golden mantella frogs are able to eat large insects compared to many other similarly sized amphibians. Most will eagerly chase any insect that is 1/4 inch (6mm) in length or less. Three day old crickets and flightless fruit flies can make up the majority of their diet.Other food items that can be offered include aphids, springtails, rice flower beetle larvae, small wax worms, and termites.

Gray Tree Frogs (Hyla versicolor and Hyla chrysoscelis)

Gray Tree Frogs (Hyla versicolor and Hyla chrysoscelis)

by Devin Edmonds

Introduction: Gray tree frogs are medium-sized tree frogs native to eastern North America. They are fairly common in much of their range near small bodies of water, and are often encountered by humans during the breeding season in spring. There are two separate species of gray tree frog: Hyla chrysoscelis and Hyla versicolor, both of which look identical and can only easily be told apart by their call. In captivity they both require the same care. Adults reach a size of around 2 inches (5 cm). As their common name suggests, most are predominantly gray, although their ventral side is a light white, and on the inside of their hind legs there are two bright orange or yellow flash marks. Gray tree frogs have the ability to change color depending on temperature, humidity, light intensity, and the color of their surroundings. Most are able to change from bright green, to pale white, to dark brown, although most of the time they remain gray. Juveniles are generally green in color and develop their gray adult coloration as they mature.


Cage: Although gray tree frogs are nocturnal and usually remain motionless during the day, at night they become very active and will use all of the room they are provided with in captivity. A 15 gallon high aquarium that measures 20 inches long by 10 inches wide by 18 inches high (51cm by 25cm by 46cm) is large enough for two adult frogs, although more room is better. A tight-fitting screen cover is essential to prevent escapes. It may be helpful to cover all but one side of the aquarium with black poster board or aquarium background to help reduce stress and make the frog feel more secure.

Main components of the cage include a substrate, perches, and hide spots. Suitable substrates include coconut husk fiber (bed-a-beast, forest bed, eco earth) or other safe soil, moist paper towels, foam rubber, or large river rocks. Avoid using aquarium gravel, small pieces of bark, reptile cage carpeting, or sand, because these substrates can cause health problems if accidentally ingested by the frog while feeding. Gray tree frogs are arboreal and need a number of good perches and climbing branches. Driftwood, cork bark tubes, bamboo poles, or simply PVC piping, can be positioned at different angles in the cage to provide varying perches. Live or fake plants can be draped over these perches to provide hiding areas. Cork bark flats can be placed against the side of the cage to provide additional shelter.



Temperature: Gray tree frogs are very hardy in regards to temperature. They can tolerate temperatures as low as 50F (10C) and as high as 90F (32C) for short periods of time without harm. Ideally the cage should be kept between 68F and 78F (20C and 26C) during the day with a slight drop in temperature at night. A low wattage light bulb can be placed above the cage on cooler days to provide a warmer area for the tree frog. They are not tropical amphibians and do not require humid conditions, although occasionally the cage can be misted with water at night to temporarily increase the humidity in a similar way to the temporary increase in humidity that they would experience in the wild after a rainstorm.

Water: A large water dish that has clean water in it should be provided at all times. The water should be changed every day or when it appears to be dirty. Treat tap water with tap water conditioner before using it in the frog's cage to remove chlorine, chloramines and hard minerals, or use bottled spring water.

Food: Gray tree frogs have a large appetite. They will accept most soft-bodied insects including crickets, moths, flies, wax worms, small silkworms, and earth worms. The majority of their diet should consist of live crickets. These can be offered every two or three days in quantities varying between three and six feeders at a time depending on the size of the frog and the size of the cricket. Every few feedings a different type of food item can be substituted for crickets. Juvenile frogs should be fed more frequently than adults, as often as every day. The food should be coated with high quality reptile vitamin and mineral supplements every two to four feedings. Juvenile frogs should have their food supplemented more often.

Golden Tree Frog (Polypedates leucomystax)

Golden Tree Frog (Polypedates leucomystax)
By Devin Edmonds

Introduction: The golden tree frog is a large, active amphibian that is regularly offered for sale. They are native to tropical Asia and have a large range that extends from India to the Philippines. In recent years, this species has been imported in large numbers and is often available from both pet stores and large reptile dealers. They rarely demand a high price and generally make very hardy captives.

Golden tree frogs are a larger species of tree frog and range in size from 1.5 to 3.5 inches (3.8 to 8.9 cm) as adults. Males are significantly smaller than adult females and have a loud call. They have a very angular head that comes to a distinct point at the end of their nose. Like most other tree frogs, they have very strong legs and can jump considerable distances. Their color and pattern are variable and range from a solid orange-tan, to a lightly-striped gray with a brown stripe outlining their face, to a highly patterned tan, beige, brown and gray variation with four dark stripes descending from the head down the back. Their underside is always a solid white or cream color. Over the years many common names have evolved for this species due to their highly variable pattern including golden tree frog, golden foam-nest frog, four-lined tree frog, Asian flying frog, golden flying frog, common tree frog, banana frog and simply, Asian tree frog.

Although breeding is occasionally achieved in captivity, the majority of golden tree frogs available are wild-caught. Most are not cared for properly during their transportation from the wild to their permanent captive home, so it’s important to make sure golden tree frogs are healthy before they are purchased. Do not buy any frog with cuts or scratches, unusual bumps, dark pink or red markings, severe rostral abrasions, or that is underweight. It may be helpful to quarantine new arrivals individually and have them inspected by a trained veterinarian.

Cage: Golden tree frogs are large, nocturnal amphibians that are very active at night. They belong to a group of tree frogs which contains some species that literally glide from tree to tree in the wild. Although golden tree frogs can’t glide, they can jump long distances and need room to do so. A standard 20 gallon high aquarium that measures 24 inches long by 12 inches wide by 16 inches high (61 cm by 30 cm by 40 cm) is large enough for two male frogs or one female, although more room is recommended. A tight-fitting screen cover should be provided otherwise the frogs will escape. It may be helpful to cover part of the screen cover with a piece of glass or plastic wrap to help maintain high humidity if the room the frogs are being kept in is very dry. Attaching an aquarium background or black poster board to three sides of the aquarium will help the frogs feel secure and make the cage more attractive.

The main components of their cage should include a substrate, perches, and hiding spots. Moist paper towels, foam rubber, coconut husk fiber (bed-a-beast, forest bed, eco earth, etc.) or other safe soils are all good substrate options. Simple substrates, such as paper towels or foam rubber, may need to be cleaned as often as once or twice a week,, while more natural substrates, such as soil mixtures, will generally last longer. Gravel, small bark pieces, and abrasive reptile carpeting should be avoided. Suitable perches include driftwood, cork bark tubes and vines. Fake plants can be wrapped around perches to provide hiding areas for the frogs, and large broad-leaved plants can be used throughout the cage to give the frogs cover.

Water: A bowl of clean water large enough for the tree frog to soak in should be available at all times. This should be changed daily or when it appears dirty. If tap water is used, it should be treated with tap water conditioner to remove chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals. Bottled spring water can be used instead of conditioned tap water.

Temperature and Humidity: The temperature during the day should range from 75F to 85F (24C to 29C) and can drop to between 65F and 75F (18C and 24C) at night. It may be helpful to use a low wattage reptile heat light to achieve the proper temperatures, and an infra-red heat light may be needed to heat the cage during the night in cooler climates. Hot rocks or other potentially harmful heating devices should be avoided.

Golden tree frogs are native to humid jungles, forests, and fields in Asia, and the humidity level in their cage should reflect those that they would experience in the wild. Most of the time, the humidity level in their cage should stay above 60%. This can be accomplished in dry areas by restricting ventilation and misting the cage with water once or twice a day.

Food: This species of tree frog, like most frogs in general, has a large appetite. They are insectivores, and in captivity the majority of their diet should consist of live crickets. Crickets should be fed two to three times a week in quantities ranging from three to eight crickets per frog depending on the size of the cricket and the size of the frog being fed. Juvenile golden tree frogs should be fed more often. Once a week or less, other food items, such as wax worms, meal worms, silk worms, moths, flies, or other insects, should be substituted for crickets. It’s important to offer no more food than the tree frog can consume in a few hours. Golden tree frogs are nocturnal and generally prefer to be fed at night, although if a feeder insects catches the attention of a tree frog during the day they won’t hesitate to wake up and catch it. Adult frogs should have their food coated with high quality reptile vitamin and mineral supplements once every two to four feedings. Juvenile's should have their food supplemented as often as every feeding.

Tomato Frog

Tomato Frog
(Dyscophus antongili, D. guineti, D. insularis)

Description:
Adults are pretty big: bigger than a person's fist. Males tend to grow to about 2 and a half inches in length, while Females can get up to 3 - 4 inches! (thats NOT nose to toes---that's body length!) Their colors may vary but most females range from reddish-orange bright dark red. The bellies are usually more yellowish, and sometimes there are black spots on the throat. Males also tend not to be as brightly colored being a duller orange or brownish-orange. Juveniles are also dull in color and develop brighter coloration as they mature.

Habitat:
These guys need a soft substrate to burrow into. If they start to turn an icky brown color, it's generally a sign of having a pretty unhappy frog. Try getting some potting soil with no chemicals in it....They live well in temperatures from 64 up to 80?F.. A regular terrestrial or half and half tank terrarium seems ideal housing, as long as there is something for them to burrow into. Ideally they should have about 6cm of a damp but not too wet base substrate mixture to dig into. This substrate can consist of pre-sterilized chopped oak and maple leaves, sphagnum moss and river sand, or you can go for some regular potting soil as long as it doesnt contain any chemicals..You can put a few large pieces of cork bark or bogwood on top and add a shallow water pan towards one corner.
Lighting should be subdued for these frogs. You should mist the vivaria once or twice daily with de-chlorinated or stale water to retain some moisture in the substrate.


Diet:
All sorts of bugs and invertebrates. Crickets, waxworms, even mice!
See my page on Dealing with Crickets for more info.

Habits:
Burrows into the ground and eats passing insects. They tend not to chase the food around but rather wait for a nearby movement. These guys are mostly nocturnal, so don't expect a lot of action during the daylight hours.
When spooked, these guys can inflate their body like a baloon!

Miscellaneous Facts:
The bright colors most likely serve as a warning mechanism. While not toxic, these guys can give off a yucky, sticky white mucus which is irritating to mucous membranes and may serve to ward off predators.
Tomato frogs use an "ambush" strategy to hunt for food, sitting in a particular spot and eating whatever insect walks past.
The tomato frog is found only in Madagascar and is limited to the northwest part of the island. They are primarily terrestrial, inhabiting forests areas. Their habitat is being deforested, but they apparently adapt well to living in cultivated areas and are found in gardens and eucalyptus plantations.
Tomato frogs breed during rainy season in stagnant or very slow-moving water.
Dyscophus antongilli is endangered in its native country as a result of deforestation and over-collecting for the pet trade. These types of Tomato frogs are protected under CITES (Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species) Appendix I and are ILLEGAL in trade! There are two other species of tomato frogs in Madagascar, D. guineti and D. insularis, neither of which are presently endangered.

Fire Salamander ( Salamandra salamandra )

Fire Salamander ( Salamandra salamandra )

Care in Captivity by Chris Jorden



Introduction

Fire salamanders are one of the most colourful of all salamanders and newts - they are black and bright yellow, and their skin feels quite damp and rubbery. They got their name from when they came running out of a log that they were hibernating in, when it was thrown in to a fire. This made people think they were born in the fire.

They normally grow between 20 and 25 cm (8 - 10 inches), and can become very tame in captivity. Although they are quite popular in Europe, imports in to America are somewhat limited - perhaps due to there low temperature requirements.

They usually live for twelve to twenty years, although some live longer. Fire salamanders are nocturnal, which means they hunt for food at night.

They hibernate during winter. In the USA people who have salamanders tend to hibernate them during them summer, by placing them in a small tank with moss on the bottom, then putting them in an air-conditioned room, or in the refrigerator! In the UK hibernation can be accomplished by placing the salamanders in separate containers containing just damp sphagnum moss and a waterfowl. Before placing the salamanders in the container, you should fast them for about 8 days. After the fasting period the temperature in the terrarium should be cooled to just 5 degrees centigrade. Then place them in the container, which should be put in a cool, but sheltered place such as a garage, or a garden shed.

Selecting A Salamander

The salamander you select should be plump but not obese (it should be impossible to see bones in the rib or hip areas, as this is a sign of malnutrition). The skin should be clear with no scratches or cuts. Eyes should be clear as well.

Try to see the specimen you are interested in feed, to see if it is eating well. Make sure it is not overcrowded in the tank, and make sure the tank is the correct temperature. The tank should not be dirty or smelly and it should give the fire salamanders the proper environment that they require. It should not be kept in a tank with any other species of animals, as this may result in you choosing an ill salamander, that does not like the other species' toxins.

The salamander should be transported in a well ventilated plastic container, with a substrate on the bottom. When getting a new salamander to add to a group it should be kept in a different tank on its own for a few weeks to make sure it is healthy. If you put a sick salamander in with a healthy group, it may also kill the whole group, as well as dying itself.

Setting Up A Terrarium

A tank measuring 90 x 40 x 30 cm is ideal for a pair or trio (one male, two females) of fire salamanders, although 60 x 40 x 30 cm will do for a pair or single adult. Two males should not be kept together, as they will probably fight.

The substrate should be 4 - 12 cm of bark or potting soil (which can be mixed with playground sand to make an even better floor to the cage), covered with 2 - 3 cm of damp moss (preferably sphagnum). Fire salamanders like to burrow. You should have at least one hiding place per salamander, and the tank should contain some plants, fake (plastic) or real. Real plants should be replaced when they die. The water bowl should not be very deep, as Fire Salamanders are bad swimmers. 2 - 3 cm is fine. It should have a ramp in it, allowing the salamanders to climb out easily. The water should be changed regularly as the salamanders also use it as their toilet. It should be cleaned at least every other day, preferably every day. Tap water should not be used in the water bowl, as it contains chlorine, which is toxic to salamanders. Spring water or rain water is best. If tap water must be used, it has to be left to stand for three days so it can dechlorinate. Mist spray the tank every day or two, using aged tap water, rain water or spring water.

The temperature in the tank should be 15 - 20 degrees centigrade (60 - 68 degrees Fahrenheit). When it gets to hot in the tank the salamander starts climbing the walls of the tank. They also circle the tank when they are suffering from heat stress.

When cleaning out the tank - this should be done every three or four months - make sure you replace the objects in their original spots, otherwise the salamander will get confused.

Feeding

Salamanders should be fed a variety of insects, as well as some earthworms, wax-worms and spiders. They will eat any insect caught in your garden, but I do not recommend feeding salamanders wild-caught insects as they may contain insecticides. Feed your salamander at least twice a week as much as they will eat. Leave some insects loose in the tank to be eaten later. Be careful when feeding a group of salamanders as they may fight over food.

Handling

Although handling is not recommended, fire salamanders can be held if great care is taken and they are held in damp hands. On Fire Salamanders you can see pores running down the salamander's back and tail, and on the sides of its head. Out of these pores the salamander can release a noxious fluid if disturbed, which is especially bad if it goes in an eye. Salamanders very rarely use the fluid, and nearly all captive bred salamanders are fine to hold. When you first hold your salamander it is a good idea to wear disposable latex gloves and goggles. If the salamander does not try to squirt you, it is probably okay to hold. Wear gloves and goggles a few more times after that when handling and if it still does not release the milky fluid, it should be safe to hold without gloves or goggles. If the salamander squirts your gloves or goggles, the goggles should be thrown away, and it should not be held again, without protection.

Breeding

Breeding is supposedly fairly easy. All you need is a male a female or two. Sexing fire salamanders is quite easy, males have a swollen cloaca and females do not. Males are also normally slightly smaller. Fire salamanders are usually sexually mature at the age of three or four.

In the wild mating takes place in autumn or spring. In captivity breeding occurs after a drop or rise in temperature. Mating takes places on land. The male slips underneath the female and the carries her around on his back for ages, whilst rubbing his head on her chin. Then the female will move her hind-quarters from side to side. The male releases his spermatophore (sperm packet). The female lowers her hind-quarters and picks up the spermatophore with her cloaca. The female can store the spermatophore for months. Once it is used for fertilisation, gestation itself takes two to five months. You will be able to tell when a female is ready to give birth because she will be very obese. At this point move the female to a separate tank, that has a large are of shallow water. Make sure the female can get out easily. You can include a sponge filter and a few live plants. Continue feeding her whilst she is in this tank. She will give birth to twenty to seventy live larvae, each with four legs and measuring about 2.5 cm in length, in groups over a few days. They are a mottled greenish tan, with gold specks. When she has finished giving birth, put her back to the original terrarium.

Looking After The Larvae

The larvae should be removed when they are born and put in a third tank, full of spring water, or old tap water. It should have a sponge filter in it and lots of live plants, for the larvae to hide in and to make the water cleaner and to improve the oxygen level in the tank. The water should be changed once a month. Feed the larvae brine shrimp, daphnia, mosquito larvae, tubifex worms and other live fish foods. When they get older they will eat small insects. They should be fed about twice a day.

In two to four months the larvae will metamorphose into baby salamanders. Just before they leave the water the larvae acquire adult colouring, at this time you should give them areas where they can get out of the water, or they will drown. The babies should be moved to small tanks set up the same as the adults' tank, but with a water bowl half as deep. Four juveniles can be kept in a tank 60 x 30 x 30 cm. The babies should be fed the same things as the adults, except they should be given smaller food.

Copyright © Chris Jorden. 1999.

GIANT AFRICAN LAND SNAIL

GIANT AFRICAN LAND SNAIL
(ACHATINA FULICA)
CARE SHEET
HOUSING

KEEP YOU SNAILS ON WARM MOIST PEAT OR VERMICULITE (NOT WET) ABOUT 5 INCHES DEEP. SNAILS LIKE TO BURROW DOWN TO LAY THEIR EGGS.
THE TANK SHOULD BE REGULARLY KEPT CLEAN AND FREE FROM DROPPINGS.
DO NOT DISTURB THE PEAT IN THE TANK IF YOU NOTICE THAT EGGS HAVE BEEN LAYED.
KEEP THE SNAILS AT ROOM TEMPERATURE IF THEY ARE KEPT TOO HOT THEY WILL DRY UP !
FOOD
ICEBERG LETTUCE, COURGETTES AND OTHER GREEN VEGETABLES.
TROPICAL FISH FLAKES (OCAISSIONALLY).
HAVE A SUPPLY OF CUTTLEFISH IN THE SNAIL TANK AT ALL TIMES THIS HELPS THE SNAIL TO GROW STRONG
CARE
HANDLE CAREFULLY AND DO NOT DROP, THE FRONT OF THE SHELL IS VERY BRITTLE WHERE NEW GROWTH IS TAKING PART.
NEVER PULL THE SNAIL FROM ANY SURFACE AS THIS WILL ONLY MAKE IT GRIP HARDER AND IT MAY DISLODGE IT FROM THE SHELL
IF POSSIBLE LEAVE THE SNAIL TO CRAWL
EGGS
SNAILS DO NOT HAVE TO MATE SO IF YOU CARE FOR THEM CORRECTLY YOU SHOULD FIND THAT THEY WILL EVENTUALLY LAY EGGS (APPROXIMATLEY 100) . DO NOT DISTURB THEM AND THEY SHOULD HATCH IN AROUND SIX WEEKS.
THE AFRICAN GIANT SNAIL IS THE LARGEST KNOWN GASTROPOD. THE BIGGEST ONE EVER RECORDED MEASURED FIFTEEN AND A HALF INCHES FROM SNOUT TO TAIL WHEN FULLY EXTENDED AND WEIGHED EXACTLY TWO POUNDS! GOOD LUCK!

Care For The Green Tree Frog

Care For The Green Tree Frog

By Devin Edmonds



The green treefrog is a very commonly available treefrog. Most animals are taken out of the wild and will be stressed out when you buy them. When selecting your treefrog make sure it doesn't have any cuts or irregular spotting or anything else that is unusual. Once have found the frog you like you are going to need a cage. Since they are small arboreal treefrogs they like height and do not require a large cage. I would say that a 10 or 15 gallon extara high aquarium would be fine for three or four frogs. For a substrate I recommend putting down 2 inches of pea gravel and then placing on top of it and inch of potting soil making sure to take most of the vermiculite out. This is a time consuming job so if you want you could buy specially made potting soil for amphibians that already has the vermiculite taken out of it. The next thing to do is to place in a water dish. All a water dish has to be is a dish about four or five inches in diamitor that is no deeper than two inches. Now place asorted branches, sticks and pieces of bark in the terrarium. Next just put some philodendrons and other climbing plants in. This setup can also be used for barking, cuban, whites and grey tree frogs. For whites and cuban treefrogs I would use a larger cage like a 20 gallon extra-high aquarium.The whites will also need a higher tempeture. Luckely green treefrogs are not the pickiest eaters. Feed yours about 2 or 3 small to medium sized crickets every other day or so per frog. If you wait four days to feed them double the amount you would have usually fed them. Mealworms are another source of food for tree frogs. If you use mealworms I suggest you put a dish in the terrarium to put the mealworms in so they don't just burrow away. With eaither of the two food sources mentoined abouve I would dust the food every other feeding or so. You don't have to do this but it will make your green treefrogs healthier. Following this care your frog should have a long livesd life.

Tiger Salamanders In Captivity

Tiger Salamanders In Captivity

By Devin Edmonds



Tiger salamanders are one of the most low matenence and rewarding animals to keep in captivity. They can live for years, are very easy to feed and don't require much of terrarium. A 10 or 15 gallon aquarium tank could house one or two adults. I keep my tiger salamander on cypress mulch because it is easy to change the cage and keeps humidity in. Potting soil or peat are also good substrates. If you use potting soil make sure that all the vermiculite is out. These two substrates work good and keep humidity in but they are harder to change and having to have to change the cage every month or so I like bark chippings better. Another substrate that is commonly available is your average type gravel for aquariums. This substrate can be used and I have used it in the past with many of my frogs but this is not a good substrate for housing tiger salamanders in. Most tiger salamanders like to burrow and gravel surrtenly doesn't let them do that. Gravel also doesn't keep humididty. In the terrarium along with a substrate you are going to need natural decor and a water dish. I like using those little plastic dishes which you put under plants to collect the extra water in for my water dish. Anything would work fine as long as it is not over an inch or two deep. In my oppinion you don't need to change thee water all that often, mabey once a week or so. Saometimes I don't even get around to it until it is cleaning time for me. The next thkings to put in your terrarium are drift wood and cork bark. These provide hiding places for your animals. Heating and lighting are not necessary, and if you live down south you might even want a cooling system. I keep the tempeture in my cage between 68 F and 75 F and my tiger salamander is doing quite fine. Lighting is also not necessary because tiger salamanders are part of the mole salamander family which like to burrow. Tiger salamanders are one of the most easiest species of amphibian to feed. I feed mmine about 15 crickets ever week or two. Some people like using earthworms and niightcrawleres instead of crickets but they aren't as nutritious for them do I only use them occationly. By following this care your tiger salamander should have a happy and long lived life.

Care of the Malagasy Mantella (Mantella baroni)

Care of the Malagasy Mantella (Mantella baroni)

By Devin Edmonds



The Malagasy Mantella is one of the most common Mantella frog species available to the pet trade. It is a very remarkable colored frog, usually being black with yellow, orange or green legs striped with black netting and a yellow or green visor-like stripe running across the top of the eyes and snout. It is also a very tiny frog, only reaching 32mm. at the most. Some people believe that there is a sub-species of this mantella that has been wrongly put as a separate species called Mantella "loppei." This is one of the easier species of mantella to keep in captivity as long as its needs are met. You can keep 3 or 4 Malagasy Mantellas in a ten or twenty gallon aquarium. I have tried many substrates for my mantella and have found that large gravel is the easiest to clean and most attractive. Other substrates I have used are potting soil, foam rubber and a mix of bark chippings, sphagnum moss and soil. If you use the other mentioned substrates you MUST change it at least once every 3 weeks. For the gravel all you have to do is syphon out the extra water that collects in the bottom every month or so. This frog comes from the tropical island of Madagascar and has to be heavily misted (around one or two times daily) or its environment will dry out. All mantella frogs are bad swimmers so if provied at all, the water dish should not be more than 2 inches deep. The Malagasy Mantella comes from the dense forests of the western half of Madagascar which you should try to duplicate in captivity. I like providing a centerpiece of driftwood, which usually has bromeliads planted on it. Around that, place pieces of smaller bark. Then put one main larger plant in (maybe some orchids or peace lilies). Now you can just fool around and position corkbark or other plants in the terrarium however you like. Just use your imagination. Being such a small frog, all Mantellas are a pain to feed. Luckily, though, Malagasy Mantellas aren't the pickiest of Mantellas. You should vary your frog's diet. Pinhead crickets or quarter inch crickets can can be a main diet, but fruit flies, small mealworms, small wax worms, and any small wild-caught insects should be offered regularly to balance out the diet. If the other insects aren't availible to you, make sure you dust your crickets with vitamin and mineral powder before every feeding. Feed 3 or 4 insects a day per Mantella. With this brief outline of Malagasy Mantella care, you can start the mantella- keeping hobby.

Care For The Fire-bellied and Oriental Fire-bellied Toads

Care For The Fire-bellied and Oriental Fire-bellied Toads

By Devin Edmonds



Often, one of the only amphibians that you will see in non reptile specialty pet stores is the fire-bellied toad (Bombina bombina) and the oriental fire-bellied toad (Bombina orientalis). Both of these are usually fairly cheap (under $10.00) and are very hardy if given the right care. The fire-bellied toad is greenish grey or brown on top and the under side is bright orange red. The oriental fire-bellied toad is bright green with small black spots or bumps on its back and underneath is a remarkably bright red. The cage for them should have a land area and a water area. First, fill half of the 10 gallon or larger aquarium with small pea gravel about an inch or so deep. Place a piece or two of slate rock or some other flat rock on its side right ware the inch of small pea gravel stops so it acts like a barrier or wall. On the side of the aquarium that isn't filled with gravel, fill it with gravel to the top of the slate (which should be at least 4 inches high). Now, fill the side of the tank that only has one inch of pea gravel with water so the water line is just barely touching the top of the slate. Place a piece of driftwood on the land area and some water plants in the water area. Most of the time the toads should just sit in the water with there eyes just above the water line. Make sure you have a very secure lid on the tank because my oriental fire-bellied toad use to scaled the wall of the tank. He some how got out and I think one of our dogs ate him :-( Both the fire-bellied toads and the oriental fire-bellied toads will eat most small insects like crickets and mealworms. They will also eat black worms and red worms along with some earthworms. To make sure they will be healthy I would give them a fairly varied diet.When you are feeding mealworms or crickets left over dead ones should be removed after feeding. If they are not they may start to encourage bacteria growth.

General Care Of Dendrobate, Poison Dart Frogs

General Care Of Dendrobate, Poison Dart Frogs

By Devin Edmonds



Many times when you open an amphibian book, the first picture is of some gorgeous tropical looking frog. These frogs are usually some sort of poison dart frog. The genus of Dendrobate is one of the more common genuses in poison dart frogs so I thought I would cover the basic care of them. It is also the genus I have had the most book info and experience with. There are 26 species of Dendrobate, almost all of which are brightly colored. The more common ones in captivity are Dendrobates auratus, D. tinctorius, D. leucomelas and D. pumilio. Dendrobates auratus grows to 5 cm. but most will only reach 3 or 4 cm. They vary in color from black with green blotches, to black with green spots, to black and blue, and some even have brown lines or spots on them. Dendrobates tinctorius is one of the largest poison dart frogs, growing to around 4 or 5 cm. on average, but there are some that may grow to 6 cm. There are so many forms or morphs of this frog that it would take pages to describe them all (check out this link Dendrobates Tinctorious color giude ), so I will only mention the more common ones. The cobalt form of D. tinctorius is black with yellow stripes flowing down its back and down its side. The legs are blue. The yellow back form is black with a bright yellow back that has two "drops" of yellow trailing off of the back down the sides. The powder blue form is black with white or very light blue stripes and small spots all over its back. The legs are light blue with black spots. Dendrobates leucomelas grows to around 3 or 4 cm. The juveniles are black with yellow or orange stripes running horizontally on their backs. When they turn into adults, some of the stripes start turning into spots. This is one of the better poison dart frogs for beginners. Dendrobates pumilio is small, growing to only 2 or 3 cm. They are the most variable of poison dart frogs and can be in any color you imagine. The most common form is red with blue legs. This is not a good species for beginners. After you have looked over the kinds of poison dart frogs and have decided which kind you want to get, you will need some sort of enclosure to put them in. I have a separate page on how to make a terrarium for them so I figure why write it twice. Here is a link dendrobate cage or you can find the other page under care sheets on my homepage. Make sure you know the proper temperature for your species of Dendrobate before you make the terrarium because it is hard to lift a terrarium full of plants and frogs to put an under tank heat pad on. Here are the common temperatures of some Dendrobate: D. leucomelas 77F-83F D. azureus 75F-81F D. auratus 76F-80F D. tinctorius 75F-80F Some good plants to use in the terrarium are philodendron, pothos, any kind of ivy and schefelaras. You can also just go to your local plant store and select a few kinds of small house plants and use them. Since all Dendrobates are small frogs they require small foods. Getting small foods in large quantities can be a hard task. The easiest way to do this is to start a culture and raise your own. Crickets are the most easily acquired food. Almost all pet shops should have some for sale. The problem is that not all have the very small ones, which are called pin-head crickets. Eighth-inch crickets are also ok for the frogs but pin-heads are the best. If the pet shops in your city don't have them, then you will most likely be able to special order some. If you still can't do that then there is always the possibility of mail ordering them yourself. Before feeding these to your frogs you should either "gut load" (also known as "power feeding") them or dust them with vitamin and mineral powder. All that "gut loading" is, is you feed your crickets some lettuce and fish flake the night before you give them to your frogs. The next most common food for them is fruit flies. Always get the wingless form of them instead of the winged ones. They are vary easy to culture. There are suitable instructions for making a culture at A1 Reptiles (clicking on the link will take you to a different site). My favorite food and the most easily cultured is spring tails. Spring tails are very small white insects. You can get a starter culture from ARIZONA DENDROBATE RANCH or The Dendrobate Den . Here are directions to culture them: Materials needed: Small tupperware sandwhich box, African violot potting soil, Fish food and spring tails. 1. Take the tupper ware container and fill half or less of it with the potting soil. 2. Trickle some water on top of the potting soil and stir it up so its consistancy is like pie dough. 3. Add fish flake to the top of the potting soil and then add springtails. 4. Once your springtail culture is growing, separate part of it and put it into a new culture. Do not worry if white fuzzy mold appears over the top of the springtail culture. The mold should go away in a week. Now that you have the cultures going, the question is how do you get the little bugs out of there without squishing them. All you do is take a turkey baster and blow some of the little springtials out into your frogs' cage. If you want you can blow the springtails into a small container so you know how many you are putting in the cage. There are some frogs that are not good for the beginner Dendrobate keeper. The following is a list of the species that are good for beginners and the species that aren't so good for beginners. Poison Dart Frogs That Are Good For Beginners Dendrobates azureus (blue poison dart frog) Dendrobates leucomelas (yellow-banded poison dart frog, bumble bee poison dart frog) Dendrobates auratus (Green & Black poison dart frog) Dendrobates tinctorius (Dyeing poison dart frog) Poison Dart Frogs That Are Not Good For Beginners Dendrobates pumilio (strawberry poison dart frog) Dendrobates histrionicus (harliquin poison dart frog) Dendrobates lehmanni (lehmann's poison dart frog)

Semi-Aquatic Frogs & Toads

Biology
Frogs and toads are a group within the Amphibia. They live in most habitats with access to fresh water and occur all over the world except Antarctica. Most live on land and occasionally return to water to soak themselves or breed. Some species, however, divide their lives equally between the aquatic and terrestrial environments. Some of the species that fall into this group are those from the family, Discoglossidae. Commonly available examples include the Fire Bellied Toads, Bombina spp. and the Painted Frogs, Discoglossus spp.

Housing

The most suitable containers for these animals are aquaria. Set up with half land and half water, these tanks make admirable quarters. As none of the animals housed will become very big, it is possible to make an attractive display with the use of live plants and other decor. A 60 cm x 30 cm x 30 cm aquarium would be large enough for two pair of animals at 5 cm each or about a dozen smaller animals at about 2.5 cm each. The water in the aquarium may be filtered in some way and the movement necessary to do this, used to aerate it at the same time. To set up the tank, add the substrate to form a base and into this anchor the plants. Any other items of decor can then be positioned. Finally, fill the aquarium with water. Ordinary tap water is suitable but may be improved by adding a propriety conditioner. The filter should be installed and run for about a day to settle the environment. (If an under gravel filter is used, it must of course, be installed before the substrate.) The substrate has two functions. One is purely decorative and the other, functional. Where decor is concerned, much is dictated by personal taste but a few points are worth considering. Choose the colours to blend into a pleasing background that contrasts well with the animals. Either a very dark or very light colour will probably make the best contrast. A terraced effect built behind retaining walls gives the impression of depth and allows both the animals and plants access to different levels. The functional role of the substrate will centre around its ability to trap and hold particulate material and how much microbial life it can support. Chemically, it is better if it is inert. The best substances to choose are the fairly coarse, lime free sands and gravels used for aquariums. Alternatively, the artificial medium, Hortag is also recommended. Plants again, serve in both decorative and functional roles. They are better planted towards the rear of the tank and choose a species like Elodea, Scindapus and Tradascantia that are tough and will provide good oxygenation. These frogs are active climbers so a secure, escape-proof lid is essential. If some of the lid is made from a non-corroding metal mesh, this will allow for ventilation. It may also be possible to direct the light into the cage through this mesh. If the light levels are too low, however, the lighting should be installed to the underside of the cage lid. This may require the expertise of an electrician, as mains equipment and water certainly do not mix! It is essential all electrical equipment is installed correctly and adequate protection made against electrocution.

Husbandry

Small frogs cannot really be handled. If it is necessary to move them from one aquarium to another, a suitably sized net should be used. The net should be made from a soft material, as the skin is quite delicate. Return the frog to water as quickly as possible and avoid escape by capping the net with a free hand. Larger animals can be quickly grasped with the hand and gently lifted from one place to another. Do not touch the animal for any longer than is necessary. As far as cleaning out is concerned, the nature of the recommended set up only allows for minor interference. Every week between half and two thirds of the water can be removed and replaced with fresh tap water. Allow the new water to stand in a separate contained for a day to let some of the chlorine escape and for the temperature to equilibrate. The only other major task is to trim the plants as they grow and fill the tank. If they are not thriving, this is a good indication that something is wrong and needs to be corrected. The most common reason for plants to fail is insufficient light.

Food & Feeding

Frogs usually recognise food by smell and movement. Like many amphibians they will snap at moving objects in the hope that they might be a meal. If the morsel tastes OK and is of a size that can be swallowed, it is eaten. Small insects and the like are probably the best foods as they contain a good balance of nutrients. Crickets will make up the major part of the diet with other suitably sized items as the rest. Dust all food item with Repton at least once each week. Alternatively, crickets and mealworms may be fed Cricket & Mealworm Diet Plus respectively. This will load the gut of the insects with vitamins and minerals to make a nutritionally balanced meal for the animals eating them. Food should be offered two or three times per week with enough to be totally consumed in about half an hour. Do not leave uneaten food in the water. More frogs are probably lost through overfeeding and the subsequent pollution it causes, than any other cause.

Reproduction

Semi-aquatic frogs are some of the easiest frogs to breed and many of the excellent publications available will provide further information. Adult pairs will, of course, be required. To tell the sex of a frog it is usually necessary to wait until the individual is mature and then often, in breeding condition. This conditioning may be seasonal, so the right time of year is important.

Health & Disease

Pet frogs do not suffer from many problems. Occasional skin infections may show and can usually be dealt with preparations suitable for fish. The treatments and advice are available from aquarists and pet stores. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet frogs do not pose any real threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be observed.


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Large Tree Frogs

Large Tree Frogs
Frogs and Toads are amphibians and the large arboreal species that are commonly kept as pets and referred to as tree frogs include:

· True Tree Frogs (Hyla spp.)

· Australian Tree Frogs (Litoria spp.)

· Flying & Gliding frogs (Polypedates & Rachophorus spp.)

Housing

The permanent cage needs to be fairly large, a 40cm x 60cm x 40cm being a suitable size for two animals with a body length of 10cm each. Juveniles can be grown on in proportionately smaller cages but in all cases the requirements of the individual housed should be taken into account. Many types of cage can be used to house frogs. For juveniles, the moulded clear plastic tanks with fitted lids are very useful. For bigger animals a purpose made vivarium is probably most appropriate. The types with sliding glass doors to the front are very popular. Another often used cage is a converted aquarium. A special adapting lid is used to contain the amphibians and house any equipment that may be used. Whatever the type of cage used, it must be kept scrupulously clean. The cage should be set up in a manner similar to the diagram overleaf. A heater should be installed to provide a background temperature of between 25ºC and 30ºC. This is best done with a HabiStat heat mat or strip taped to the inside of the back wall of a wooden cage but on either side if it is made of glass or plastic. Make sure the mat acts like a radiator, so very little of it should be below the line of the substrate. A local hot spot of 35ºC may be added as an optional extra. In which case, a HabiStat controlled Basking Spot Lamp would provide the necessary heat. The hot spot should warm an area in front of the heat mat. The coolest part of the cage should be nearer 25ºC. All heat sources should be comparatively low powered to protect the animals from being burnt. Guard any hot surface if this is a possibility. The hot spot, if present, should only operate during the day for about fourteen hours in summer dropping to twelve in winter. Tree frogs, especially these larger species, will usually like to sit in warm bright light. Full spectrum lamps like Reptile D3 are almost essential to keep them in peak condition. Indeed, juveniles may be very difficult to rear without such exposure. Set up a lamp as shown on the diagram with a perch no more than about ten inches from the surface of the light source. Much of the success achieved in keeping frogs will come from the skilful manipulation of ventilation. Some of these animals require very high humidity, while others like it a little dryer but none can stand stagnant air conditions. Fresh air moving into the cage is essential. Use the upward draughts caused by heated air rising to flush out the cage and drag fresh air in. A light daily misting with a hand sprayer will provide most of the humidity required. Some species will require the substrate to be damp but not wringing wet. Look in the literature for details of the particular species being kept.

Husbandry

Most species are best kept in groups of the same species. Some may even be kept in community set ups containing different species. Be careful when mixing frogs as some of these bigger species are cannibalistic and will tackle another frog if it is much smaller. Most frogs will swallow anything live that moves within striking distance and is of a size that is similar to prey animals. These animals do not really like being handled, so if it is necessary to move them, scoop them into a container like a bowl and move them in this. Be prepared, however, for the animal to attempt an escape by jumping. Use a hand as a lid to restrain the frog in case of mishap. In time the cage will begin to look scruffy and as soon as any faeces or debris appears it should be removed. As everything recommended for the cage is washable or disposable, a good clean out is easily done. The cage set up advised in this leaflet is practicable and can be made to look pleasing to the eye. It can be made to look quite natural even without using live plants, which are best left until some experience is gained. In any case, some of the very informative books on amphibians in general and frogs in particular could be investigated.

Food & Feeding

Insects like crickets and locusts form the staple diet in captivity for most specimens. Mealworms can also be fed. Crickets should be fed Cricket Diet Plus while Mealworms and Locusts should be offered Mealworm Diet Plus respectively to 'load' the insect with vitamins and minerals. Alternatively, the insects can be dusted with a supplement like Repton. Wax worms can be given as an occasional treat or used to tempt fussy feeders. Some species will take earthworms but not all are able to cope with wet or sticky prey. For rearing juveniles, fruit flies or hatchling crickets can be used until the frogs have grown enough to tackle bigger prey. Food is sensed by movement and then grabbed with the mouth or caught on a sticky tongue. If it puts up too much of a struggle or is particularly bulky, it is pushed in with the fore limbs. Frogs can take enormous meals compared to their size. Meals that are over half the size of the frog have been eaten. Despite this, it is not recommended that such gargantuan feasts be offered. Indeed, many juvenile specimens may have died prematurely due to their owners misguided attempts to indulge them. Prey sized at about the same width of the mouth is probably best. Feed the frogs about twice every week with enough food that equals no more than one quarter of the animal's total mass. Do not to leave an excess of uneaten insects in the cage as these will only annoy the frogs. A water dish kept full of fresh water should always be available. Frogs do not drink but soak up water through the skin. So do not put vitamin supplements into the water dish as this may cause more problems that it prevents. There is no route into the gut via the water dish. Almost all of them like to immerse themselves occasionally, so a bath is essential. The problem is that the animals may use the bath as a loo. This will need cleaning out as soon as possible, as frogs are particularly sensitive to the combination of wetness and dirt.

Reproduction

To sex a frog an adult specimen is usually required. The males often have vocal sacs and darker coloured throats. Many also have rough dark pads on the fingers and thumb. These are used to grip the female and ensure the male is present when the spawn is laid. Mating and spawning may not be at all easy to induce in captivity. If breeding is contemplated, a good deal of research will be necessary and some of the many excellent books should be consulted.

Health & Disease

Frogs live for many years in nature and may be expected to live even longer in captivity. They do not suffer from many diseases and veterinary attention is rarely needed. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease or injury is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet frogs do not pose a real threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be


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Aquatic Newts & Salamanders

Biology
Newts and Salamanders are a group within the Amphibia. They live in most habitats with access to fresh water and come mainly from Eurasia and North America. Most live on land and occasional return to water to soak themselves or breed. Some species, however, can live entirely in an aquatic environment. These types are fully equipped for permanent life in water and indeed some species cannot survive out of it. Commonly available examples include:

· Axolotls (Ambystoma mexicanum)

· Neotenic Tiger Salamanders (Ambystoma tigrinum)

· Ribbed Salamanders (Pleurodeles waltli)

· Paddle-tailed Newts (Pachytriton sp. and Paramesotriton sp.)

Housing

The most suitable containers for these animals are aquaria. Set up in a manner similar to those used for tropical fish, these tanks make admirable quarters. As some of the animals housed will tend to become quite large, it is best not to construct too elaborate a set up, for fear of it being wrecked by a boisterous inmate. A 60 cm x 30 cm x 30 cm aquarium would be large enough for a pair of animals at 20 cm each or about a dozen smaller animals at about 5 cm each. The water in the aquarium is best filtered in some way and the movement necessary to do this, used as aeration at the same time. Alternatively, a simpler system could be employed. Either the water is changed more frequently or a lush growth of plants is used to mop up pollutants. These filterless systems are usually only recommended for tanks containing a few small animals. Room temperature of between 20ºC and 25ºC is usually sufficient but some species may require a little more. This is easy to achieve with a heater and thermostat suitable for tropical fish use. An external canister type water pump, an under gravel filter with an air lift or some similar device should otherwise be used. Whatever method is chosen, the object should be to remove gross contamination from the water by trapping the waste particles somewhere they can be periodically removed from or allowed to degrade to harmless bye products. Another function of filtration is to change harmful dissolved substances into less harmful or neutral products. Some of these may well be taken up by the plants growing in the aquarium, thus facilitating the overall effectiveness of the filter. To set up the tank, add the substrate to form a base and into this anchor the plants. Any other items of decor can then be positioned. Finally, fill the aquarium with water. Ordinary tap water is suitable but may be improved by adding a propriety conditioner. The filter should be installed and run for about a day to settle the environment. (If an under gravel filter is used, it must of course, be installed before the substrate.) The substrate has a dual purpose. One is purely decorative and the other, functional. Where decor is concerned, much is dictated by personal taste but a few points are worth considering. Choose the colours to blend into a pleasing background that contrasts well with the animals. Either a very dark or very light colour will probably make the best contrast. A terraced effect built behind retaining walls gives the impression of depth and allows both the animals and plants access to different levels. The functional role of the substrate will centre around its ability to trap and hold particulate material and how much microbial life it can support. Chemically, it is better if it is inert. The best substances to choose are the fairly coarse, lime free sands and gravels used for aquariums. Alternatively, the artificial medium, Hortag is recommended. All substrates must be thoroughly rinsed before being used. Plants again, serve in both decorative and functional roles. They are better planted towards the rear of the tank and choose a species like Elodea that is tough and will provide good oxygenation.

Husbandry

Aquatic newts and salamanders cannot really be handled. If it is necessary to move them from one aquarium to another, a suitably sized net should be used. The net should be made from a soft material as the skin is quite delicate. Return the animal to water as quickly as possible and avoid escape by capping the net with a free hand. Once each week replace about one third of the water with fresh in filtered systems or replace two thirds in unfiltered systems. Judge the quality of the water on its clarity and smell. Gross pollution will necessitate a complete water change immediately. The only other piece of maintenance that needs to be done is the periodic pruning of the plants.

Food & Feeding

Aquatic newts and salamanders recognise food by smell and movement. Like many amphibians they will snap at moving objects in the hope that they might be a meal. If the morsel tastes OK and is of a size that can be swallowed, it is eaten. Unlike most, however, these aquatic amphibians will also take dead food if it smells appetizing enough. Whole animals are probably the best foods as they contain a good balance of nutrients. The table below gives an idea of what to feed. Food should be offered two or three times per week with enough to be totally consumed in about half an hour. Do not leave uneaten food in the water. Most aquatic animals are probably lost through overfeeding and the subsequent pollution it causes, than any other cause.

Reproduction

Aquatic newts and salamanders are some of the easiest amphibians to breed and some of the excellent publications available will provide further information. Adult pairs will, of course, be required. To tell the sex, it is usually necessary to wait until the individual is mature and then often, in breeding condition. This conditioning may be seasonal, so the right time of year is important. All these details will be available in the publications recommended or a 'Herpetological' club or society could be contacted.

Health & Disease

Pet newts and salamanders do not suffer from many problems. Occasional skin infections may show and can usually be dealt with by preparations suitable for fish. The treatments and advice are available from aquarists and pet stores. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet newts and salamanders do not pose any real threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be observed.


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White's Tree Frog Dumpy, Smiling, or Australian Green Tree Frog

Common Name: White's Tree Frog Dumpy, Smiling, or Australian Green Tree Frog

Latin Name: Litoria caerulea

Native to: Northeast Australia, New Guinea, Indonesia and the Torres Straits
Size: Average 4 inches males, 5.5 females

Life span: 20 years plus

General appearance: Smooth green rubbery skin (can turn brown occasionally or have whit speckles); fat and flabby appearance. At one year of age, breeding males grow nuptial pads (puffy pads where their "thumb" and "palm" meet). Tadpoles are large, 1.75 – 4 inches (45 - 100 mm), dark green or dark gray-green in color.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Larger is better for this species, a minimum of 25 gallons for an adult pair is recommended. An arboreal enclosure is the best choice, as tree frogs will spend most of their time being high in the enclosure. Plants and hollow logs/branches provide shelter and security. Can be safely housed with other White’s tree frogs or with other similar sized tree frogs.

Temperature: Temperatures should be up to 86°F (30°C), but can be reduced to 68°F- 75F(20°C) at night.

Heat/Light: White’s tree frogs are nocturnal. There is no specific lighting requirements. Live plants will require a full spectrum light. An under tank heater can be used but do not use heat rocks.

Substrate: Potting soil, peat moss or a few sheets of damp paper towels on the bottom. Avoid using small bark and gravel due to danger of ingestion.

Environment: Semi-tropical – A moderate amount of humidity is required. This can be achieved through misting of the frogs and enclosure two or more times a day. Additionally a large water dish with a depth of about four inches is required.

Diet: Insectivores - crickets, cockroaches, locusts, moths and beetles. Dust crickets with calcium & vitamins 3 times a week. Feed frogs daily. They are known for overeating and obesity. Fat is stored in the supratympanic ridges. An oblast frog’s supratympanic ridges will cover the tynpanic membrane ("ear") Feed only what is consumed in a few minutes.

Maintenance: Clean the enclosure weekly. Remove dead insects and clean water bowl as several times a week or as needed, but no less than weekly. You may wash with a mild bleach solution (5%) or liquid soap and thoroughly rinse. Regular handling should be avoided. Hands must be washed and rinsed prior to touching the frog and should remain wet.


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Waxy Monkey Tree Frog, Painted-bellied Leaf Frogs, Chacoan Tree Frog

Common Name: Waxy Monkey Tree Frog, Painted-bellied Leaf Frogs, Chacoan Tree Frog

Latin Name: Phyllomedusa sauvagi

Native to: Northeast Australia, New Guinea, Indonesia and the Torres Straits

Size: Females reach up to 3.5”; males tend to be smaller

Life span: About 10 years

General appearance: Green with shinny wax like skin.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Aquarium of 20 gallons or larger or similar enclosure. Enclosure top should be screen to allow for plenty of ventilation. A small water bowl and some branches to climb on are about all that is needed.

Temperature: The waxy monkey frog requires high temperatures. Temperature for these frogs should be in the mid 90º range during the day and mid 80º range at night. .

Heat/Light: A basking area with a temp of 95º F or higher is required and using a full spectrum UVB bulb is recommended by some.

Substrate: News paper or paper towels works best for this species. Potting soil, peat moss can be used but care must be taken to avoid damp conditions. Avoid using small bark and gravel due to danger of ingestion.

Environment: The waxy monkey frog is a low humidity high temperature frog found in almost dessert conditions for much of the year.

Diet: Insectivores - crickets, cockroaches, locusts, moths and beetles are all eaten. Dust crickets with calcium and vitamins three times a week.

Maintenance: Clean the enclosure weekly. Remove dead insects and clean water bowl several times a week or as needed, but no less than weekly. You may wash with a mild bleach solution (5%) or liquid soap and thoroughly rinse. Regular hanging should be avoided. Hands most be washed and rinsed prior to touching the frog and should remain wet.

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Tiger Salamander

Common Name: Tiger Salamander

Latin Name: Ambystoma tigrinum

Native to: Southern Canada to Mexico

Size: 6 – 13 inches snout-tail length

Life span: If kept properly they can survive 15 – 20 years in captivity

Special Note: Because the Tiger Salamander can be found in New York, please be sure that you acquire only captive bred sub-species not found locally. The subspecies most commonly found in pet shops are from Texas and California.

General Appearance: The tiger salamander has wide rounded snout with a stocky body and small eyes. The coloration varies from black to olive green to even yellow. There are usually dark spots or blotches on a lighter background or yellow spots on a dark body giving it its “tiger” markings. Males generally have a longer tail.

Housing Requirements:

Enclosure: A 10-gallon or 15-gallon aquarium with a secure wire mesh top is adequate for one to two salamanders.
T
emperature: Daytime temperatures can range from 65° – 75° F wile nighttime temperatures can drop as low as 60° F.

Heat/Light: Tiger salamanders do well at room temperature and rarely need any additional heat sources. UV light is also not required, but they will do well with photoperiod provided by a regular fluorescent light.

Substrate: Substrates which can hold humidity and allow for burrowing are preferred. Bedding such as potting soil (without vermiculite), ground coconut, ground cypress and sphagnum moss can all be used.

Environment: These nocturnal salamanders like moist surroundings with places to hide and burrow. Live plants can be used to help maintain the enclosures humidity levels. Pieces of drift wood and cork bark also provide great places for your salamander to hide as well. A large shallow water dish should also be provided.

Diet: These salamanders eat anything they can fit in their mouths in the wild. In captivity they can be fed crickets, earthworms, wax worms and night crawlers. They can also occasionally be offered pinky mice. Catching wild insects to feed your salamander can be risky as these insects may contain pesticides and be harmful to your salamander. Because these salamanders can be cannibalistic it is not recommended to house smaller salamanders with larger salamanders.

Maintenance: The enclosure should be spot cleaned as needed and thoroughly cleaned and disinfected on a regular basis. A 5% bleach solution makes an excellent disinfectant. It is extremely important to completely rinse the enclosure and cage accessories so as to not poison the salamanders. Like all amphibians, salamanders’ skin is very sensitive to the environment and the oils and salts from your hands could harm your salamander. It is recommended to handle these animals and little as possible and thoroughly wash your hands before and after handling the salamander and any cage accessories. Fresh water should be provided daily.


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