Tarantula Terrariums

Tarantula Terrariums

So you've decided a tarantula is the accurate pet for you. Your next decision would be choosing the fair habitat for the pet. While it's possible to let a tarantula sprint around your house freely, it's not a very safe notion. Not only do you risk the chance of losing the pet, but the chances of it getting distress are far too high. A terrarium is your best bet for keeping your tarantula satisfactory and healthy.

The ideal habitat for a tarantula is a glass or plastic, serene cage or tank. It should have a mesh lid to let air in and to hold the spider from getting out. Be obvious to check that the lid is secured tightly, as tarantulas can be quite strong.

While a tarantula would be blooming in a tiny tank, a 5-gallon fish tank will give it plenty of room to travel round. While you may deem a tremendous tank would be ideal for the tarantula, the animal is quite obsolete to living in burrows or tree hollows. A location that is too substantial will actually cause stress to the animal. The ideal habitat should be three to four times the size of the tarantula. You should be able to fit three to four of the same size tarantula inside the terrarium. That will provide plenty of room for the spider to leer, yet not too distinguished as to cause stress to the pet.

Line the bottom of the tank with potting soil that can be dampened if needed. Mostly, though, tarantulas recall a dry habitat, so sand or limited gravel can be musty, also. Include a few rocks of different sizes. You'll also need to include a diminutive water dish with a sponge in it. Tarantulas brush their mouths against the sponge to drink.

You need to construct obvious that all objects in the terrarium are "soft," with no bewitching edges. Tarantulas are large climbers, and if they drop on anything interesting, they can die.

Temperatures should be kept between 70 and 90 degrees. An undertank heater or overhead lamp can be weak to moderate the temperature of the terrarium.

To complete your care for tarantulas, you'll need to be able to provide them with food. Tarantulas are not web-weavers. They don't accomplish webs to gain food, so you're going to have to provide it for them. The diet for the spider should consist mostly of insects, though it will also eat rodents such as mice or even birds or lizards. Food should be offered once per week. It is normal for the spider to eat until it is pudgy, then speedily for weeks at a time. You should lift any uneaten food after a few hours.

Tarantulas can be a very rewarding pet and fairly easy to consume care of. The first step is choosing the worthy home to withhold it righteous and healthy. By providing a home similar to its natural habitat, you can ensure the happiness of your arachnid friend.

How to gain a Turtle Terrarium

How to gain a Turtle Terrarium

A turtle terrarium is ideal if you want to explain off your pet and decorate your house at the same time. You will be providing your turtle a habitat, and adding to the natural feel of your home.

Step 1: procure a tank

You will need to come by a tank sizable enough to accommodate your turtle when it reaches its maturity. The minimum turtle terrarium dimensions should be 3-4 times the length of the turtle, twice the length of the turtle in width, and 1.5-2 times the length of the turtle in height. Add 8-12 inches above the highest level the turtle can come inside the tank so it cannot dash.

If you have more than one turtle, increase the tank dimensions by 40-60% per turtle.

The tank for your turtle terrarium should preferably be Plexiglas, since regular glass produces glare.

Step 2: Prepare the water and land area

Try not to obstruct the water space so that the turtle can swim freely and not bump into or be stuck on decorations. state the decorations along the corners instead, covering other turtle terrarium equipment like filters.

Turtles savor to bask, so they will need land dwelling to rest on. This can be made of acrylic, glass, thick wood, plastic, or a titanic stone. Anchor the land region above water level, with a ramp sloped so the turtle can climb on.

Avoid tantalizing edges or decorations that will block the turtle's path. Also, do not exercise gravel or other materials that are less than 2 centimeters in diameter.

Step 3: beget positive the water you exhaust is clean

Turtles exercise a lot of their time in the water. It is where they swim, eat, drink, and release their destroy. Over time, the water will become dirty, and this will effect the turtle susceptible to diseases if left unchanged.

Changing the tank water in a turtle terrarium is a stupid job, and is recommended to be done every 45 days, at least. To hold the water shapely between each change, you can employ a water filtration system instead.

You can also add a teaspoon of salt in every 4-5 liters of water to prevent sinister bacteria, and shell and skin diseases.

Step 4: Decorate the tank

manufacture the turtle's habitat a bit more repulsive by adding decorations to it instead of leaving it bare.

Remember to wash and sterilize things you capture up from the road before you effect them in the tank. Do not add decorations that are attractive, pointed, or so itsy-bitsy that the turtle can swallow them.

You can add commercial decorations, driftwood, gravel, plants, shells, and stones to your turtle terrarium.

Step 5: Provide noble lighting

Turtles also admire to bask, which is why you will need to fit a heating or basking light onto the tank. There are several basking lights available in stores. When you install the lights, originate clear they focus on the land situation where the turtle will rest.

Aside from heat, turtles also need UV light rays for their calcium metabolization. UV lamps are also available in stores.

Step 6: Situate the tank in a convenient corner

Do not dwelling the tank beside a window. Even though turtles need natural sunlight, windowpane glasses filter 95% of the UV rays. Exposing the tank water to suppose sunlight will also cause algae to grow faster, which means you will have to change the water more frequently.

After you have followed those simple steps, your turtle terrarium is now ready. But before you save in your turtle, test the environment first by letting miniature fish live in the water for a while. This is to check if the water is super and free of diseases. If all is OK, you can status your turtle inside the tank.

It's All in the Container - Secrets to a new and delicate Terrarium

It's All in the Container - Secrets to a new and delicate Terrarium

The Container of a terrarium doesn't have to be a glass jug. It can be any one of a thousand creative ideas. Using a recent container will transform your average terrarium into something modern and a conversation portion for friends to ogle at and devour. Here are some ideas for creative containers you can exhaust.

There are two basic types of terrariums and intelligent these types will encourage you settle a container. The first type is an start type. It can be considered to be very similar to a potted plant. The dissimilarity is that you have more than one plant in it. This variety of plants makes it a shrimp eco-system.

launch Air Terrariums

Making this type of terrarium gives you a lot of options and unprejudiced about anything that will acquire soil can be old-fashioned for this type. Some very trustworthy containers include lawn ornaments, ceramic statues, ceramic bowls, coffee mugs, wine bottles and fish bowls. You can catch unbiased about any three dimensional object and either hollow it out so it has a reservoir for soil and plants or you can drill tremendous holes in it to maintain the soil.

But I recommend you grasp this creative terrarium making to another level and tie it into something that interests you as a hobby. I really treasure astronomy and telescopes so I took an extinct brass telescope and cleave a astronomical slot along the top of it. I build soil in it and planted flowers. I mounted it on a minute tripod and now I have a very fresh terrarium that also says something about me. If you have a hobby or a craft that you like to do you should notice at the materials and popular items that are veteran in the hobby and witness if you can turn some of them into a terrarium.

Enclosed terrariums

This type is the most racy but can also be the most dramatic because you are enclosing all the materials in an airtight container. The most commonly seen terrarium of this type is in a gallon jug or two liter plastic bottle.

When selecting a container for this type the most well-known thing you need to witness out for is that you should spend something that is totally sure. Either transparent glass or plastic will work well. But something that is tinted a color like green or brown will not work well. The color will block sunlight from the plants and fabricate it difficult for you to examine inside.

Some Creative Ideas for closed terrariums

fair about any transparent container can be musty as a closed terrarium and I have mature gallon jugs very successfully. One of my favorites is one that I made using a Tabasco bottle. It's very miniature but it was a lot of fun to earn and is a lot of fun to peruse at. Other kindly containers include uniquely shaped food and drink bottles, spice bottles, cookie jars and wine bottles. If you are ambitious and you want a loyal challenge you could expend a five gallon water jug - the kind that goes on top of an office style water cooler. These obtain astonishing terrariums because of their size but can be a valid challenge because you have to do everything through a petite opening at the top.

Once you initiate thinking about terrarium containers you are going to sight gigantic ones all over the house, at yard sales, and in stores. All of a sudden things you never considered will become titanic opportunities for a terrarium that is modern and fair.

Terrarium - A limited Greenhouse

Terrarium - A limited Greenhouse

In the hottest months of the year even the most tropical plants may be customary outdoors. The genuine time when you may safely state them on the terrace, porch or patio and when you should bring them in depends upon where you live and upon the kind of plant. The temperature ranges will suggest when these moves should be made in your locality.

Humidity, that is the relative humidity of the atmosphere (the amount of moisture it contains compared with that it is actually qualified of holding at a given temperature), is essential.

There is shrimp dismay of affording the plants listed here an atmosphere that is too humid under house conditions. Lack of sufficient moisture in the air, particularly when artificial heat is being aged, is a considerable more likely cause of grief.

Despite the excessive dryness of the air in most homes a surprising number of tropical foliage plants adjust well to it and flourish in atmospheres drier than they are accustomed to in nature. There are list of plants for dry-air conditions.

There are a few well-tried devices for increasing the relative humidity of the air about plants grown indoors. Most perfect of all is the terrarium, which is really a dinky greenhouse that encloses the plants together with a surrounding moist atmosphere. Terrariums can normally accommodate only plants of slight size.

Shallow trays of metal or plastic, containing a laver of sand, cinders, gravel, moss or other moisture-holding material that is kept constantly wet, evaporate water into the air. Pot plants that are placed upon such trays back from a local atmosphere that is moister than that of the main share of the room. Spraying foliage fair like cleaning house plant leaves once or twice a day with water from an atomizer syringe is also estimable.

On the negative side, do not location plants approach radiators or other sources of heat that gain the air exceptionally dry.

What Plants Should You exercise when Making a Terrarium?

What Plants Should You exercise when Making a Terrarium?

Here is a list and some tips on choosing plants to invent a successful and pleasing terrarium.

The ideal plants for a terrarium are tiny hardy plants that require only moderate sunlight and don't grow at all. And before you begin selecting plants for your terrarium you have to have a edifying plan about how you will execute your terrarium. Ask yourself two questions before purchasing plants: How mammoth will the terrarium be and how remarkable sunlight will it accumulate? From these answers you will dramatically improve your chances of selecting the just plants for your project.

Most plants will do very well in a terrarium so you don't have to pains too worthy about selection as far as health and hardiness goes. What you really have to deem is the growth of the plants and the beautiful notice of the plants.

The Aesthetics of the Plants or how they view together

decide plants of different heights and leaf shapes and decide some plants with a splash of color. Your plants should compliment each other in that they give a nice variety. If all the plants are similar it makes for an wearisome blueprint. When shopping for plants you should position them side by side in shrimp arrangements to acquire a feel for how they will scrutinize in the same dish or bowl. explore for variety in height, leaf shape and color. When I am shopping for plants I also glimpse for multiple plants in the same pot. It affords me the ability to demolish them up and spread them out in racy arrangements.

The Growth of the Plants

This can be a bit tricky and all plants will grow if given the opportunity. But many plants will grow slowly or not at all and composed thrive if they are potted and given only moderate amounts of sunlight and water. Here are some plants that do well in a terrarium:

Palm Neanthe Bella - rude light and grows slowly and is very hardy

Swedish Ivy - Very durable outrageous care plant

Bird Nest Sansivieria - Extremely hardy

Irish moss - Makes nice groundcover

Croton - reach in many colorful colors but need a lot of light

Pothos - Medium Light, nice shaped leaves

Pitcher Plant - Carnivorous and has a nice exotic peep

Butterwort - Also carnivorous

shrimp African violets - Adds nice color

Cactus - High sunlight and sandy soil

Aglaonema (Chinese evergreen) - Extremely hardy plant

Aspidistra (Cast iron plant) - As the name implies this is a very durable plant

Herbs - Have a nice added function of being edible (Don't hesitate to expend herbs like parsley, mint, chives, oregano or others in your terrarium. They tend to be hardy, cease exiguous and often add a miniature bit of a nice aroma.)

When making a terrarium plant selection is not too considerable of a disaster because most of the typical plants you will pick up in a greenhouse or home improvement store have been selected for their hardiness. believe more how they will seek together and how powerful they will grow.

A Terrarium - A Recycling Craft For Children

A Terrarium - A Recycling Craft For Children

The children (passe 4 & 6) who live across the road are keen to return to school, or should I say their Mom is enthusiastic! Today, she had kept them busy making terrariums out of soda bottles that had been going into their recycling bins.

This evening they paid me a visit to reveal me their terrarium creations. I have posted instructions below so that if you needed a last dinky activity before school starts you have one to utilize.

The girls obviously thoroughly enjoyed the activity and are fervent to glimpse changes in the days ahead as the violets continue to grow.

The dictionary definition of a terrarium is:- a glass container enclosing a garden of cramped plants.

TO obtain A TERRARIUM

get TWO 2 liter bottles, the certain bottles will work best as the children will be able to clearly spy the water cycle and progress of growth of the plants within.

Soak off the labels and wash out the bottles carefully, then reduce them both in half. retain the bottoms and recycle the remains to the recycle bin.

dwelling a layer of gravel in the bottom of one of the soda bottle bottoms and then occupy half arrangement up with potting soil.

go to plant your runt plants within the soil. The girls had planted violets within their terrariums.

Water your current plants until the soil is graceful wet. If you are using bog plants then the water can soggy!

To complete, flip over the other bottom and carefully plod over the half in which you have planted your plants.

state your terrarium in a sunny site, away from bellow sunlight and look the changes. The content sunlight could cause the temperature in the terrarium to be too high for your plants, so ensure your children are watchful.

Only add water when critical. Moisture from the terrarium should condense on the inside of the terrarium top and provide the well-known water.

A terrarium may be simple to build. The result however, of doing this simple activity can be profound, as it provides enrichment to a child's life in ways that are very significant. By teaching a child to care for living things, they become more aware of the complexities of nature and the world surrounding them.

What Is A Terrarium?

What Is A Terrarium?

A terrarium is essentially an enclosed environment for growing plants. They are usually made of definite glass or plastic and arrive in all shapes and sizes, from mini-terrariums for individual dinky plants, windowsill sized terrariums lawful up to great terrariums where you can effect an extensive habitat. Once established the environment in a terrarium requires only minimal maintenance. The system recycles moisture through the processes of evaporation and condensation. Due to this recycling of water or enclosed water cycle the terrarium may not require watering for months or even years in some cases.

The sustainability of a terrarium environment makes them spacious projects for kids, handy for forgetful people who cannot remember when to water and astounding for non-green fingered individuals. You can steal ready-made kits (mammoth for gifts and kids) these reach with all the required materials and instructions to dwelling up a fully functioning terrarium. For kids they can be bought themed: Diego, Dora the Explorer, Backyardigans and SpongeBob Squarepants for example. There are dinosaur and fairy themed terrariums.

Terrariums can be conventional to illustrate different environments such as desert, tropical, temperate or fair to grow herbs. The options are puny only by your imagination as you could originate your occupy terrarium from scratch using an empty terrarium case and reading an profitable reference book or doing some online research. You will be able to gain out which plants to exhaust, what substrate they will need for growing. The most commonly extinct substrates are: accepted soil, microscopic pebbles, sand, peat, chips of various trees, wood mulch, vegetable fibres (of coconut for example), or a combination of them.

Many terrariums are customary to house and present animals (particularly tropical species) with the addition of a heat and light source. Animals top-notch to enclosed and controlled terrariums include but are not slight to: reptiles, amphibians, insects, spiders, scorpions and even microscopic birds. Some of the most well-liked plants conventional in terrariums include: Pilea (Aluminium plant), Ardisia, Podocarpus (Buddhist pine), Aeschynanthus (Lipstick plant), Baby Tears, very puny ferns, exiguous African violets, coffee plant, Creeping Charlie, Boxwood, Creeping Fig, mosses and many more.

Terrariums are an kindly educational resource as they can be musty to succor young scientists understand the water cycle, plant growth, different habitats, photosynthesis and more. Ideal for science projects, homeschool activities or for teachers to consume in science classes. A colossal aspect is that beginner terrariums do not need to be expensive.

For many people the gift of a terrarium kit can be the initiate of a lifelong hobby or passion.

Interesting Facts About Reptiles

Interesting Facts About Reptiles
by Brandon Cornett

This article illustrates the amazing diversity found within the animal kingdom. Below, I have compiled what I feel are some of the most interesting facts about reptiles and their behavior.

Interesting Reptile Facts

* There are more than 8,000 species of reptiles on the planet, and the live on every continent except Antarctica (where it is too cold).

* Most kinds of reptiles do not tolerate the cold very well. But the Blanding's turtle (Emydoidea blandingii) is sometimes found swimming under the ice in the Great Lakes region of the United States.
* Reptiles are among the longest-lived species on the planet. For example, large tortoises such as the Aldabra tortoise can live for more than 150 years. Alligators can live nearly 70 years. Ball pythons, a popular type of pet snake, can live up to 40 years (consider that before getting one as a pet).

* Most of the world's snakes (nearly two-thirds) are non-venomous. Only about 500 snake species are venomous, and of those only 30 - 40 are considered harmful to humans. In other words, less than 2 percent of all snakes are considered harmful to humans.
* It is a fact that more Americans die each year from bee stings than from snake bites.

* With regard to reptile fact #4 above, the opposite is true in Australia. There are actually more venomous snakes in Australia than non-venomous snakes. The inland taipan is one of the most popular of these venomous Australian snakes. Australia is the only continent where venomous snakes outnumber non-venomous snakes.

* Certain types of snakes can go months without eating. This is especially true of the big constrictors, such as the Anaconda and the reticulated python. Snakes eat large meals (relative to their body size), and they have much slower metabolisms than we humans have. This partly explains how they can go so long between meals.

* "Cold-blooded" is not the best way to describe reptiles. Their blood is not necessarily cold by itself. But they are ectothermic, which means they get their body heat from external sources. Reptiles cannot regulate their body temperature internally as humans do.
* Snakes and lizards flick their tongues in the air to capture scent particles. They don't smell through their noses like you and I. Instead, the use their tongues to collect scent particles and then pass the particles over something called a Jacobson's organ to decipher the air around them. This is partly how reptiles hunt for food.

* True to its name, the African egg-eating snake (of the genus Dasypeltis) prefers to dine on the eggs of other animals. It will swallow the egg whole, and then use tiny "spikes" extending internally from its spine to crack the egg open and swallow the nutritious contents. Lastly, it will regurgitate the unneeded egg shell in a neatly folded piece.

If you enjoyed this article and would like to learn more about this subject, be sure to check out the informational resources listed below.

The Snake Keeper's Checklist - Before Bringing the Snake Home

The Snake Keeper's Checklist - Before Bringing the Snake Home
by Brandon Cornett

Snakes are becoming increasingly popular as a type of pet. There are several reasons for this. For one thing, there's a lot more care and keeping information available these days, which makes for healthier snakes and happier keepers.

The reptile industry as a whole has also come along way. Once viewed as a weird subculture, the act of keeping snakes and other reptiles as pets is now approaching the "mainstream." As a result, the industry has become a lot more organized and professional.

But before you bring your first snake home to keep as a pet, there are certain things you should know and do. Here's a checklist of some of the most important actions:

Checklist - Before Purchasing a Pet Snake

* Research your state's laws regarding reptiles in general and your chosen type of snake in particular. Every state is different with regard to what they allow as pets.

* Create a list of eight to ten breeders who produce the type of snake you want. Seek a captive-bred specimen and avoid wild-caught specimens. The animal will likely be healthier as a result.

* Start researching reptile shows and make a list of those within driving distance of where you live. These shows are a great place to obtain healthy specimens.

* Contact breeders to find out about the shows they attend, snake availability, shipping procedures, etc. Record this information in a notebook for future reference.

* Use the Internet to gather some care sheets about the species you want. If you can find one, read a book about that species as well. You should know as much as possible about the care and keeping of your snake species.

* Using the information you've gathered as a guide, start preparing your snake's habitat (cage, heating, lighting, etc.).

* Obtain a food supply (frozen rodents) or a reliable food source (live rodents).

* Finish your pet's habitat, paying particular attention to temperature and humidity.
* Purchase your snake and introduce it into its new habitat. Leave it alone for a few days so it can adjust to the new surroundings.

* Get help from experienced keepers when needed. Join some snake forums for this purpose. For starters, check out the care and keeping forums at Kingsnake.com.

I hope you've found this guide to snake keeping helpful. If you have questions about caring for a specific species, please see the resource website listed below.

How to Avoid Snake Bites at Feeding Time

How to Avoid Snake Bites at Feeding Time
by Brandon Cornett

When it comes to pet snakes, the vast majority of snake bites occur during feeding time. Many of these are the result of improper feeding techniques.

Among reptile geeks like myself, these are often referred to as stupid feeding errors or SFEs. I myself made an SFE several years ago with an otherwise docile rainbow boa, but I haven't repeated the error since then. Usually, one SFE is all it takes before a snake keeper changes their tactics!

Fortunately, there is a simple solution to this. Actually, there are many solutions, but the simplest and most effective way to avoid snake bites at feeding time is to use a snake hook. The word "hook" scares some keepers away from using these products, but in truth they are completely safe.

The Snake Hook Solution

If you've ever watched an episode of the old Jeff Corwin Show or something similar, you've probably seen a snake hook in action. Basically, it's like a golf club with a curved part at the end instead of a driver or putter. You can buy them at reptile shows, order them online from companies like Midwest Tongs, or make your own if you're crafty.

Choosing the Species

Another way to avoid bites is to choose a pet snake that has a reputation for being docile and reluctant to strike. Corn snakes fit into this category, as do ball pythons. That's why those two species are among the most popular snakes in the hobby. A healthy corn snake or ball python is extremely reluctant to bite its owner, and typically will only do so if a stupid feeding error takes place (see definition of SFE above).

A lot of keepers transfer their snakes into a separate tank or "feeding tub" at meal time. The idea is that this prevents the animal from associating the cage door opening with food, thereby reducing the likelihood that the snake will bite its owner by mistake. I personally don't use this option, but it's worth consideration.

Logic to the Rescue

The key to success here is to "think" like a snake. These animals use sight, scent and (sometimes) temperature to detect their prey. So if, for example, you put your hand into a snake's cage after handling a rodent, that snake would have three indicators that prey was nearby -- it would smell the rodent, detect the body heat from your hand, and see the movement of your hand. These are prime conditions for a stupid feeding error.

The solution I propose is simple and nearly 100% effective. Use a snake hook to initially lift the animal from its cage. Lift it from the mid-body area to provide the proper support. Once you have lifted the snake with the hook, it will realize that it's going to be handled and not fed. Then you can simply reach in with your hand and handle the snake as normal.

Exotic Pet Insurance Coverage Study

Exotic Pet Insurance Coverage Study
by Mark Gittelman

Many varieties of exotic pets are more susceptible to an array of diseases and illnesses that are not commonly found in ordinary household pets. The reason that people seek exotic pet insurance is to be sure that the health and welfare of any exotic animals owned by individuals will be covered, as well as to avoid putting extra financial burdens on the owner. One of the reasons that such coverage is even more important for exotic animals, is that many species are more susceptible to more types of illnesses than the more common, domestic breeds.

The care for exotic pets is also more expensive, as some of these animals require a veterinarian with specialized knowledge and skills in order to properly care for the them. This is one reason why many owners of such animals seek out insurance. Some have even declared that they would never again be without such coverage because of the amount of money that they have saved due to unexpected veterinary pet bills.

Recent studies have reported that approximately 40% of all reptile owners have needed to take their pet in for an unplanned veterinarian visit at some point during the previous two years. The study went on to report that over one third of these cases ended up requiring three or more veterinary office visits during that same time frame. This is just one example of how pet insurance for exotic creatures is very beneficial, because for some people, such a level of care would not be affordable.

Many people think that exotic pet insurance is only meant to cover expenses related to veterinarian care and other health related expenses for an exotic animal. However, there are many coverage options that can be added to a policy that will cover much more that just the vet bills. The scope of the coverage is generally decided by the owner and is based on the needs and circumstances that need to be covered.

Of course, the primary benefit of all pet insurance is the pet health insurance aspect. This is the part of the coverage that will pay for veterinary pet visits, vaccinations, health screenings, yearly checkups and booster shots as needed. Some of the policies will completely cover all of these costs. Other types of policies will only cover emergency types of care, such as surgery due to an accident. Some policies require you to make a minimum co-payment for each veterinary visit, while others fully cover such costs. Each of these variations, in addition to an annual deductible, will affect the cost of the insurance premium that you'll pay.

In addition to covering veterinary expenses, insurance policies for an exotic creature can also cover thievery, in case it is stolen. If you own a very valuable exotic pet, it is strongly advised by experts that you carry this type of insurance in addition to the pet health insurance coverage. You will want to be sure that the policy you choose provides for sufficient replacement coverage in the event of a theft.

Insurance can also provide coverage in the event of death of the exotic animals because of fire, natural disaster, accident, injury or illness. For owners who have invested a great deal of money in acquiring an out-of-the-ordinary kind of pet, this type of pet plan can help to offset the cost of replacement. Most policies will cover the value of the purchase price of the pet and some will even cover the needed vaccinations that were required. Of course, such coverage cannot compensate for the value of the relationship that has been developed with the beloved exotic creature, but it can minimize the financial impact of such a loss.

In most cases, exotic pet insurance coverage is available in policies that are issued on a yearly basis or on a lifetime basis. The year-long policies will generally have lower claim limits and they can be a riskier way to go. This is because the potential exists for the pet insurance company to cease to offer coverage based on the age of the exotic pet or because of an illness that might have developed. In all cases, it is advised to take time in choosing the pet insurance company and the right policy for you and your exotic pet.

When shopping for pet health insurance, it can often be very tempting to purchase the cheapest pet insurance that you run across, without taking into consideration the reputations and reliability of the pet insurance company behind the policy. Pet lovers report that dealing with insurance companies that place a high value on preventative and wellness care for their pets are the best to deal with. Even though policies that cover wellness care cost a few more dollars each month, for most animal lovers it is well worth the small extra amount to know that the family pets health is well safeguarded.

Learn Exotic Pet Insurance Facts

Learn Exotic Pet Insurance Facts
by Mark Gittelman

The reason that people seek exotic pet insurance is to be sure that the health and welfare of any exotic animals owned by individuals will be covered, as well as to avoid putting extra financial burdens on the owner. One of the reasons that such coverage is even more important for exotic animals, is that many species are more susceptible to more types of illnesses than the more common, domestic breeds.

The care for exotic pets is also more expensive, as some of these animals require a veterinarian with specialized knowledge and skills in order to properly care for the them. This is one reason why many owners of such animals seek out insurance. Some have even declared that they would never again be without such coverage because of the amount of money that they have saved due to unexpected veterinary pet bills.

Recent studies have reported that approximately 40% of all reptile owners have needed to take their pet in for an unplanned veterinarian visit at some point during the previous two years. The study went on to report that over one third of these cases ended up requiring three or more veterinary office visits during that same time frame. This is just one example of how pet insurance for exotic creatures is very beneficial, because for some people, such a level of care would not be affordable.

Many people think that exotic pet insurance is only meant to cover expenses related to veterinarian care and other health related expenses for an exotic animal. However, there are many coverage options that can be added to a policy that will cover much more that just the vet bills. The scope of the coverage is generally decided by the owner and is based on the needs and circumstances that need to be covered.

Of course, the primary benefit of all pet insurance is the pet health insurance aspect. This is the part of the coverage that will pay for veterinary pet visits, vaccinations, health screenings, yearly checkups and booster shots as needed. Some of the policies will completely cover all of these costs. Other types of policies will only cover emergency types of care, such as surgery due to an accident. Some policies require you to make a minimum co-payment for each veterinary visit, while others fully cover such costs. Each of these variations, in addition to an annual deductible, will affect the cost of the insurance premium that you'll pay.

In addition to covering veterinary expenses, insurance policies for an exotic creature can also cover thievery, in case it is stolen. If you own a very valuable exotic pet, it is strongly advised by experts that you carry this type of insurance in addition to the pet health insurance coverage. You will want to be sure that the policy you choose provides for sufficient replacement coverage in the event of a theft.

Insurance can also provide coverage in the event of death of the exotic animals because of fire, natural disaster, accident, injury or illness. For owners who have invested a great deal of money in acquiring an out-of-the-ordinary kind of pet, this type of pet plan can help to offset the cost of replacement. Most policies will cover the value of the purchase price of the pet and some will even cover the needed vaccinations that were required. Of course, such coverage cannot compensate for the value of the relationship that has been developed with the beloved exotic creature, but it can minimize the financial impact of such a loss.

In general, exotic pet insurance policies are available to purchase either as a yearly premium or as a lifetime policy. Typically, the one year policies carry lower limits for claims and can be a risky option since the issuing pet insurance company may choose not to continue coverage when the animal reaches a certain age or develops health conditions.

The Importance of a Plan When Building a Reptile Cage

The Importance of a Plan When Building a Reptile Cage
By Mark Chapple

Would you put together a model plane without looking at the finished plane picture or looking at the plans? Does a builder build a house without a plan?

The answer to these is pretty clearly no. A homemade snake or other reptile cage is so much simpler though, you say. I can just put it together as I go. Not so, my young apprentice. There are many pitfalls awaiting the inexperienced. Simple things you can miss. Silly mistakes you can make, and believe me, it is very easy to make them. There are a host of things that can make a simple cage take much longer than it should plus some possible costly mistakes.

If you have never kept a reptile, then before you even plan a reptile cage, you need to do some research on what sort of cage your retile will need. A snake will need cages of certain dimensions; lizards will need other dimensions and arboreal species yet another type of cage with different dimensions. It’s also helpful if you know how large your pet will get so you can plan ahead.

Another benefit of a plan is it helps you to think about your pet reptiles other needs such as heat mats, basking lights, UV lights, misting systems, substrates, decorations such as artificial walls, artificial trees and branches, and how these can be made and placed in the cage.

Once you have a clear idea of what you want the finished product to look like and how large it will be you are ready to plan how you are going to construct it. At this stage, having a plan, however rudimentary, is important. Once you have a plan in place you can think through the issues. In many cases it will allow you to remove the problem before you even start, as the plan often reveals an error or issue. Naturally, the more detailed the reptile cage plan, the more you can make allowance for possible issues. It can also eliminate waste and save money as you only purchase the correct amount of material.

Having a plan is useful as it allows you to see and understand how the cage will be constructed. You can work out how you may want to alter the plan if you feel the need to change.

And finally a plan is essential for the construction phase. What goes where, what is the order of construction, what size should this piece be and so on.

When building a reptile enclosure, if the plans are detailed enough you will constantly refer to them. This also helps minimise those costly errors.

Using a plan, whether is be yours, someone else’s or a purchased plan, will save you time, money and effort. It will produce a much better result for you and your pet.

Mark Chapple is the Author of "How to build enclosures for reptiles." Find out how anyone can build reptile cages. Full color pictures, detailed diagrams and easy to follow, step-by-step instructions and what you need to know when constructing reptile enclosures. http://www.reptile-cage-plans.com

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Building Reptile Terrariums For Kids

Building Reptile Terrariums For Kids
By Ryan Weaver

So you've finally talked your Mom and Dad or your Teacher into getting you a pet for your home or classroom, and you're thinking of something a little different. How about a reptile? They don't take up much space, are fun to watch and you will have fun building them a fascinating terrarium environment as well.

If you want to put together your own Reptile Terrarium there are some things to think about..

* Most reptiles need a place to bask. Many reptiles are active during the daytime and love to sit under a light, so you'll need to provide one of these for your Reptile Terrarium. Being cold-blooded, reptiles need some heat to get their blood moving and to help them digest. A reptile basking lamp of the appropriate wattage should be placed in the center or off to one side of the terrarium so you can see your pet reptile easier (not hidden in the background). An interesting place for your reptile to sit and bask under the lamp would perhaps be an unusual piece of driftwood, a bamboo root, a jungle vine or even a twisted tambora wood root.
* Reptiles need a place to hide. Like you, your pet will probably want some time to be alone and a couple of hiding places should be provided in their home. Think about having some pieces of wood or vines in their home with holes or spaces behind them for your pet to snooze in. Pet reptiles love to explore all the nooks and crannies you have put in their cages, so have fun designing a really nice terrarium.
* Reptiles need a place to watch the world from. Your reptile will love having a place to run up and look down on the rest of his home from. Think about placing something inside the area which is fairly high but can easily be scampered up. A real jungle vine put into the terrarium at an angle will also give your pet reptile the opportunity to get a little closer to the light and warm up on chilly days.
* Create a terrarium that looks natural. Reptiles are not your traditional domesticated pets, and many of them come from the wild. So it makes sense to provide a home for them that looks like one they would have lived in, if they were living in the wild. Decorating your reptile terrarium with natural products is not only fun, but helps to make your reptile pet feel more secure and enjoy his new home. Try mixing together a variety of stone, jungle vines and root hiding places and more to create an unusual and lifelike environment for your reptile pet.

Do It Yourself Guide on How to Create a Great Reptile Terrarium

* Place a good base of bedding on the bottom of your new reptile tank. Calcium sand, aspen bedding and reptile bark all make good bedding choices for reptile terrariums. But speak with your local pet store or read more about the species of reptile pet you plan to house, so you know for sure what he/she will like the best. It is sensible to use bedding that is easy to replace when cleaning time comes around. Tropical moss, bark chunks or leaves provide an interesting addition to the base bedding as long as they are thoroughly cleaned before being placed into your reptile terrarium.

* Place your basking lamp on the top above the screen to provide loads of light and warmth for your reptile to warm up to. Again,' its best to talk with your local pet store, or read up on the species you plan to keep to ensure you choose the right kind of lighting/heating so your pet reptile stays happy and healthy for many years to come.

* Choose a selection of natural terrarium decorations for your pet to play on, hide in, scamper over and bask on. Stones, slate pieces, bamboo roots, jungle vines and hollow logs are ideal additions to any reptile terrarium. Make sure these are placed in the reptile tank carefully so they are stable and will not wobble or fall and hurt your pet.

* Keep it clean. Don't forget to remove uneaten food and waste from the cage quickly. Rotting slices of fruit or vegetables, or dead bugs are just not nice to look at (and your Mom or Teacher will complain too). Just like caring for other pets, a clean environment is very important for pet reptiles too. Think about where you will place your feeding bowls or where the water is going to be placed in the cage.

* Ventilation is important so choose a reptile cage or aquarium that has plenty of ventilation.

* Choose your reptiles well and make sure they are species that are easy to care for and will live for many years in the type of reptile terrarium you plan to build. Also keep in mind that many reptiles are sold as babies that will grow quickly and need a bigger enclosure soon. When that time comes, you may wish to expand or purchase a new cage for your reptiles, and add some new terrarium decorations to their environment.

* Keep it looking fresh. Replace any decorations that have become worn or tired looking. Your reptiles will love a new and exciting change from time to time.

Most importantly!!! Enjoy your new pet reptile and ensure their home is as fun for your pet reptile to live in as it is for you to watch!

Eco Terrarium Supply offers a large variety of natural terrarium decorations to create an exciting reptile enclosure. Check out the selection of real jungle vines, decorative bamboo roots, terrarium backgrounds, hiding places, tropical moss and rock products to enhance your pet reptile’s natural terrarium environment.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ryan_Weaver

Characteristics of Mammals

Characteristics of Mammals
By Michael Russell

Of all the classes of animal life, mammals are considered the most advanced and probably the most popular class. Dogs and cats are mammals, squirrels and rabbits in our backyards are mammals as well. Horses, sheep, baboons, giraffes and elephants are mammals. For that matter, we human beings are mammals too.

Mammals vary greatly in size. The smallest mammal is the shrew with a body that is only a little more than 2 inches long and weighs less than some insects. In contrast, the largest mammal is the blue whale, which can sometimes measure up to 100 feet long and weigh as much as 130 tons. Mammals also differ in appearance in shape. Most of them walk on four legs, but not all of them do. Some mammals fly. Dolphins and whales have lost their hind limbs and now have taken fish-like shapes and spend their entire lives in the ocean.

What is a mammal? Mammals are vertebrates - they are animals with backbones. All mammals have lungs and breathe in air and all of them are warm-blooded (they are able to maintain a constant body temperature regardless of the outside temperature.) Mammals and birds share a common characteristic - the possession of four-chambered hearts that circulate blood efficiently to all parts of the body. All mammals, except two types that lay eggs, give birth to living young and provide protection and care for them before and after birth. Mammals are the only animals that possess true hair and the capacity to produce milk. In fact, the word "mammal" comes from the Latin word "mamma" which means "breast".

Mammals have other characteristics that are not so obvious. A mammal's heart and lungs are separated from the stomach by a wall of muscle called the diaphragm. A mammal's lower jaw has a single bone on each side. Mammals also have different types of teeth adapted to different uses. And most importantly, mammal brains are much more highly developed than the brains of any other animal.

In the struggle to survive, warm blood, improved methods of caring for young and superior intelligence have all given mammals great advantages through the ages. In fact, many scientists consider mammals as the dominant animals of the world.

Yet mammals did not start out immediately as mammals. Strange as it may seem, they rose from the reptile family. In the Mesozoic era, a branch of reptiles began to grow coats of hair instead of armor and slowly turned warm-blooded. Some of them began to keep eggs inside their bodies instead of laying eggs. The first mammals were probably very tiny and timid creatures, like today's rats and mice. They were nocturnal and hid for protection during the day. When conditions of the Earth gradually changed, the dinosaurs could not adapt to this dramatic shift, so their numbers grew smaller and smaller. When they died out, the more adaptable mammals later arose in the Miocene epoch.

Between 3500 and 5000 species of mammals live in the world today and more varieties under them. Many of these animals can trace their lineage to their ancestors that adapted and survived through the Ice Age. Now, mammals have developed in a bewildering variety of sizes and shapes, classified by scientists according to body structure and relationships. In all, under the mammal kingdom, there are now 18 different groups or orders.

Michael Russell Your Independent guide to Animals

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Michael Russell - EzineArticles Expert Author

What Is a Mammal?

What Is a Mammal?
By Dawn Lambros

Believe it or not, many people really don't know what a mammal actually is. There are a number of identifying factors that define a mammal from a non-mammal. They are some of the most beautiful, amazing creatures on our planet Earth and come in all shapes and sizes - from armadillos to whales, including human beings. Mammals share very distinct similarities that might surprise you.

Mammals belong to the animal classification (class) known as Mammalia. They share specific characteristics that differ from other animals. For one, nearly all mammals are warm-blooded and are live birth bearers, meaning they give birth to live young rather than laying eggs that need to hatch.

Earth's female mammals are the only creatures on our planet that make milk for their young. The milk is produced through the mother's mammary glands, which are generally located on the chest to upper groin area. The milk is very rich in vitamins and special nutrients that are crucial to a baby animal's needs.

Unlike our cold-blooded reptile friends such as snakes and most lizards, who require sunlight to warm up, mammals are virtually ready to start the day instantly. Their bodies make enough heat to hold a consistently warm temperature.

While most mammals live on land, Bats (yes, bats are mammals) have taken to the skies! Marine mammals such as whales and manatees (or sea cows) live in our oceans.

Scientists believe that large marine mammals like whales and dolphins have very evolved brains, much like those of humans. They are able to communicate, follow instructions, and intelligently figure things out. Mammals also have larger, more well-developed brains than other animals, and most have good memories and are able to learn new things. This means that mammals can learn to survive in new places and situations if necessary, which is formally referred to in wildlife science as adapting.

Another characteristic found in mammals is in their specialized teeth. The teeth are replaced just once during an individual's life, which is known as diphyodonty. The first teeth of a mammal are referred to as the milk teeth, much like humans.

Mammals such as Polar Bears have a hairy type of fur, especially on the bottom pads of their feet. This helps keep them warm, and also aids them in gripping icy surfaces. The thick hairs of the polar bear's waterproof fur coat are actually hollow and buoyant. This combination helps hold in the animal's body heat, and also helps them to float easier in water. Most mammals have a fur coat with two distinct layers; an undercoat of shorter dense hair and an outer coat of longer, thicker, stiffer hairs. Mammals are the only animals with hair or fur that protects against the elements - heat, cold, wind, rain, bacteria, and even infection.

It is believed that well over 5000 species of mammals exist within approximately 25-30 different classifications (classes). Scientists continue to disagree over the exact numbers, and on how some animal orders relate to others.

As our wildlife kingdom continues to grow and unfold, we always hope to discover new animal species and to protect the ones already integrated into our world. It is a beautiful and ongoing journey.

Find out more about Animals at AnimalWeb

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Cure An Aggressive Pet Rat

Cure An Aggressive Pet Rat
By Catherine Smith

Is your rat aggressive?

Does your rats often start fights with the other rats? Does he bite, or scratch you, or the other rats? If he does, I may just be able to help you. Whether he is aggressive towards you or other ratties, it is important to take action to stop anyone getting hurt.

Why is your rat aggressive?

There are a number of reasons as to why your rat may be aggressive. It could be down to hormones All rats go through a “teenage” stage at around 6 months to a year old. At this stage your rats hormones, can literally be overwhelming him and this may lead to aggression. It can also be down to stress, perhaps he has lost a friend, or he has experienced a change in environment. It can also be caused by illness. If your rat is in pain, or unwell he may become aggressive. It can also be caused by your rats past experiences. If he has been abused by people before, or perhaps not handled enough to know we won’t hurt him, he may bite as a defense mechanism. Some rats are genetically more susceptible to aggression.

All rats release pheromones in their urine and these pheromones in males, mark out their territory and can provoke aggression in other rats. Both male and female rats can suffer from aggression, but males tend to more often.

What can you do about it?

Luckily there are several things you can try, to treat your rats aggression.

My Secret Weapon

The answer is often as simple as vanilla essence. If your rats are fighting, or you are having trouble introducing them, this is the way to go. You can buy vanilla essence online or at the local supermarket. Simply rub a few drops at the base of both rat’s tails and along their backs. It will not hurt them if they lick it off, in fact they will probably like the taste.

The smell of the vanilla essence (which is very pleasant) will cover up their own natural smell, which may be offensive to the other rat (as rats use smell as a way to communicate). The taste may encourage the rats to lick each other and grooming will start the natural bonding process. This is all I need to do to curb any aggression in my rats.

If your rat is being aggressive towards you, rub the vanilla essence on your rat and some on your wrist. This way you will both smell the same and you will be less scary and offensive to your rat.

Patience

When dealing with aggression, or any other negative behavior in your pet, you must exercise a great deal of patience and understanding. Changing behaviors takes time and whilst the vanilla essence will help, you must deal with the problem at the source. If your rat is biting out of fear, your main job will be to build up a trusting relationship. Sit by the open cage relaxing or reading a book and let your rat come to you and sniff you. Offer him a treat when he comes onto your lap. Building a trusting relationship can take time, but is worth it in the end. To deal with fights between your rats have a plant mister of water at hand. Spray your rats if they fight and if this doesn’t work throw a towel over them.

Homeopathy:

Homeopathy is a wonderful tool when dealing with behavioral and health problems in your rats. It is entirely natural, so there are no side effects, but it really does work.

PetAlive’s aggression formula is the best to use for rats. It comes in granule form, so you can dissolve it in soy milk, yogurt or your rat’s favorite drink and they will lap it up. The product is marketed at cats and dogs, but worked wonders for rats.

The granules have an immediate calming effect and will generally help curb the aggression within a few days. The formula will not change your pets personality, but could change their lives, if it means time out of the cage, enjoying the company of other rats and people.

Stopping Stress

Is your rat stressed or ill? Please check your rat over for signs of ill health. Your rat could be aggressive because he feels ill. Check my rat health checks page for more info and take your rat to the vets if necessary.

If your rat has had a change of environment, or has lost a companion this could be the cause of aggression. Monitor his environment, check he is not too hot or too cold. If your rat is kept on his own, get him a companion. Rats are very social animals and love to have another rat to snuggle up to, groom and play with. Human companionship is not enough. Female rats are easy to introduce, but males may be a little harder. Look at the introducing rats page for tips to make things go more smoothly.

A Final Resort

If you have tried everything and nothing has worked it may be time to consider neutering your pet. in males the aggression may simply be caused by hormones and neutering will stop the surplus of hormones raging around your rats little body. There have been many reports that neutering has completely stopped aggression in pets and made their lives a lot happier.

Of course anesthetic is more serious for rats than say, cats and dogs, so it is something you must consider carefully. You must find a vet who is caring for rats and respects you and your rat. Simply calling the surgery and asking a few questions will usually help you determine whether they are the right vet for you.

After the surgery you rat will need you to nurse him for a few days and then you can begin building up a trusting relationship minus the aggression.

I hope these tips have helped you on the road to a wonderful relationship with your rat.

For more information check out http://www.RatsRatsRats.com

Catherine Smith 2007

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Dental Disease in Exotic Small Mammals

Dental Disease in Exotic Small Mammals
By Mark Rowland

At our Practice we see a large number of small mammals with symptoms of dental disease both as first opinion cases and as referrals from other practices. This article deals specifically with dental disease in Chinchillas (Chinchilla Langier). Degus (Octodon degus) and Guinea Pigs (Cavia porcellus).

The most common presentations include weight loss, anorexia, cachexia (chronic wasting), excess salivation (slobbers), small faeces or absence of faeces. An ocular (eye) discharge or a discharge from the nose may also be evident. The incisions (front teeth) are commonly overgrown and there may be a history of repeated burring or clipping of these teeth as an attempted treatment for the anorexia. On careful palpation the jaw of these presenting animals may be irregular and painful. Sometimes the animal will grind its teeth, a sign of pain in these species. There is often a poor dietary history which will be addressed later.

One of the most important points to stress is that a detailed oral examination of a conscious small mammal is nigh on impossible. This is especially true of the species dealt with in this article. Guinea pigs often have food in their mouths at the time of examination (in fact if they don't it is a worrying sign), chins and degus resent oral examination vigorously. Anaesthesia is often required to thoroughly examine the oral cavity and this allows the clinician to perform skull radiography, arguably the most informative diagnostic tool in small mammal dentistry. This is because most dental disease processes in exotic small mammals are concerned with the tooth "roots" which are encased in bone and therefore not visible on a dental examination. In fact, many animals with severe dental disease have mouths that look essentially normal on casual examination of the anaesthetised patient.

Dental Anatomy

Guinea pigs, chinchillas and degus have the dental formula of 2 x I 1/1 C 0/0 P 1/1 M 3/3 (where I = incisors, C = canines, P = premolars and M = molars). The premolars and molars act as a functional unit to grind food and the incisors are used for prehension and cutting of fibrous foodstuffs. All teeth grow continuously. There is no true anatomical root. The lower (mandibular) cheek teeth are arched toward the tongue and overgrowth can lead to tongue entrapment. The upper (maxillary) cheek teeth are angled outward (laterally). Angulation of the teeth provides an effective surface for grinding thin fibrous food material and when eating this high silicate foodstuff, rapid tooth wear occurs and new growing tooth replaces the wear caused by grinding. In the wild these animals spend a long time eating low quality grasses which are high in silicates (the precursors of glass). This continual grinding prevents overgrowth of the teeth.

Diet and dental disease

Captive bred specimens are larger than their wild counterparts and it is established that a proportion of cases of dental disease can be attributed to genetic causes. However, by far the most cases of dental disease in Guinea pigs, chinchillas and degus results wholly or in large part from inappropriate diets. Specifically a lack of dietary fibre is implicated. Most modern "complete" diets are complete in that they contain adequate protein, carbohydrates, fats and trace elements. However, their sole use leads not only to problems with obesity but also does not allow these animals to spend the large amount of time chewing and wearing their molar teeth that they require to grind down their continually growing back teeth. This can lead to spur formation and entrapment of the tongue by the diagonally growing lower molars. This can be picked up and treated by a detailed examination of the mouth. All the time however, a more sinister development is occurring which is all together more difficult to treat.

If less time is spent chewing, the exposed parts of the teeth elongate. This puts pressure on the teeth which slows eruption, but tooth growth continues at a slow rate. Essentially what happens next is that the cheek teeth grow backwards, invading the structures of the skull. The teeth can grow into the nasal sinuses causing respiratory infections or towards the eyes causing weepiness. The lower teeth invade the jawbone causing bony changes and sometimes abscess formation (common in rabbits). The net result of this growth is that the mouth is progressively forced open. The front teeth elongate as they do not meet any more and becomes progressively more difficult for these animals to eat (try swallowing with your mouth open!). This leads to the condition known as slobbers where saliva spills onto the skin often causing a fetid smell. Clients often notice this and the fact that the incisors are growing and present these animals for incisor trimming. In fact the incisors are growing because they are not meeting as a result of the mouth being forced open by the overgrown back teeth. Skull radiography is the only way to accurately quantify if this has occurred and to what extent. All too often, animals are referred to this practice with histories of repeated anaesthetics with no radiography performed.

Treatment

To sum up, difficult at best. Most presented cases have advanced disease. Aggressive burring of the cheek teeth may be attempted. If abscesses have formed, these need specific treatment. Eye infections require antibiotics. Otherwise force-feeding and anti-inflammatory drugs are required. Quality of life needs to be assessed on a regular basis and weight monitoring with faecal output are useful indicators of appetite. The liquid anti-inflammatory drug meloxicam (Metacam: Boehringer Ingleheim) is well tolerated in these species. It has the advantage of being very palatable (it tastes like honey) so is well accepted also. Often patients require life long treatment. Secondary problems associated with anorexia (e.g. intestinal stasis where the guts shut down and stops moving) also need to be addressed. Often euthanasia is required in patients that fail to respond.

Prevention

As always, better than cure. The diet of these animals needs to resemble their diet in the wild. They are not like dogs and cats that get a bowl of food twice daily and that's it. Their anatomy and physiology is specifically set up to deal with ingestion of large quantities of lower quality foodstuffs in order to meet their nutritional requirements. This means lots of good quality hay. Timothy hay is usually the beat. The fibre requires lots of chewing and keeps the intestines moving which is essential for health. 1 to 2 tablespoonfuls maximum of concentrate mix is the recommended daily allowance; the rest should be good quality hay with occasional treats. Offer the hay in a hayrack to prevent contamination with faeces. This also provides environmental enrichment, as the animals have to work a little harder for their food. Twice yearly veterinary checkups allow careful palpation of the cheek teeth. Also monitor weight and faecal output on a regular basis so that any symptoms can be managed early in the course of disease.

References

BSAVA Manual of Exotic Pets 4th edition

Hillyer, Quesenberry: Diseases of Ferrets, Rabbits and Rodents 2nd edition

O Malley: Clinical Anatomy and Physiology of Exotic Species

Carpenter: Exotic Animal Formulary 3rd edition

Mark Rowland BVSc cert Zoomed MRCVS is in practice at: Sandhole Veterinary Centre, Snodland, Kent, ME6 5LG. He is an Exotics specialist with a soft spot for chinchillas.

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Chipmunks as Pets

Chipmunks as Pets
By Tonia Jordan

As I was walking around a local pet store recently, I happened to see a Siberian Chipmunk racing around its cage, performing acrobatics that entertained a growing crowd gathered around its cage. It got me to wondering - do chipmunks make good pets? How would I choose one? What involves taking care of one?

Purchasing a chipmunk

First and most importantly, find a reliable and reputable breeder or pet retailer. A local veterinarian may be able to help you locate one. When you do find one that offers chipmunks, be sure to select an active one with bright eyes, a shiny coat and an undamaged tail. This will help ensure that your pet is healthy. Next, choose a chipmunk that is fully weaned, which means it is at least 6 to 8 weeks old, but no older than 16 weeks (as younger pets are more friendly and gentle, and can be acclimated more easily to you and your family).

You’ll also need to be sure a local veterinarian can provide checkups for your chipmunk.

Care of chipmunks

Chipmunks are very active and not at home in small cages. The best habitat would be a large outdoor area fenced with a fine mesh with an attached indoor section. Fencing should extend into the ground since chipmunks are known to be good diggers.

Chipmunks need a varied diet, with a standard seed-based food as a base. They’ll eat fruits and vegetables, too, so those should be provided at least once per week. The pets shouldn’t be fed every day, to encourage foraging behavior. Your chipmunk will store extra food when it is fed. Be sure that the food does not contain too many nuts or sunflower seeds, as these have high fat and calorie content. A standard rodent drip bottle will provide an adequate water supply, and you can also include a salt lick.

Handle the chipmunk often, but never handle the chipmunk by its tail! It could be damaged easily or break off. The pet needs a lot of human contact, especially when young, to become a tame and friendly pet.

So, to answer that first question, “Do chipmunks make good pets?,” yes. They’re not exactly low maintenance, though. They require a lot of attention, room, and a variety of food. As with any pet purchase, it’s best to do your research and make sure you have the time, money, and patience to provide a happy home to a new pet.

This article has been submitted in affiliation with http://www.PetLovers.Com/ which is a site for Pets.

Tonia Jordan's writing portfolio can be found at http://www.Writing.Com/authors/spidergirl so stop by and read for a while.

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Chinchillas as Pets

Chinchillas as Pets
By Tracy Pridemore

A popular exotic pet for many people today is the chinchilla. Chinchillas can be very good pets for some individuals, but less than optimum for others. Lets look a little more at the animal and the care of the chinchilla to see if it is the right exotic pet for you.

Chinchillas are small rabbit-sized crepuscular rodents who are native to the Andes in South America. The name literally means "little Chinca" and the animals are named after the Chinca who were known for wearing the soft dense fur of the rodent. In the Andes, chinchillas live in burrows or crevices in the rocky arid regions of the mountains. They live in colonies within this environment where the larger females breed with the smaller males any time of year. They are extremely agile and can jump very high, and enjoy being mobile and exploration.

As pets, chinchillas are not generally good for families with smaller children. The animal does not like to be held, and has small easily damaged bones. With a lifespan of 15 -20 years, this is also a long-term commitment. Chinchillas come in a variety of colors and are also known for their very sensitive stomach which requires a specific diet for optimum health.

To setup a cage for a chinchilla you should start with a fairly large, multi-level wire or other non-chewable cage. A pull-out tray eases cleaning of the cage for you as well as elevates the animal from the dirty cage floor. If the cage floor is wire this is hard on the animals feet, and somewhere in the cage you need to provide a wooden platform for relief on the feet. The cage needs to placed in a quiet, cool, non-drafty part of your home.

To feed a chinchilla always provide a lot of good quality grass hay along with some pellets. The digestive system of the animal is very sensitive, and deviation from this diet should be little to none. Treats can be given on occasion, equaling no more than one teaspoon full per day. These can include fruits, vegetables, sunflower seeds, and rolled oats. At all times a water bottle, preferably glass, should be available with fresh cool water for drinking.

Chinchillas love to play, so provide some toys and maybe even a wheel to entertain your pet. Some good toy choices are pesticide free wood chew toys, wooden parrot toys, as well as willow based rabbit toys, and also a pumice block for chewing to aid in keeping teeth short.

To tame a chinchilla, slowly build up confidence between the animal and yourself. This can be a slow process, be prepared to patiently interact with your pet getting acquainted slowly. Treats and working at the speed of the animals acceptance of your presence, and in no time you will have a very loyal pet.

If you are searching for chinchillas for sale search the top site for exotic pets online, Find A Pet Online! We have the top breeders of quality puppies, kittens, horses and exotic pets on the net in our pet classified ads.

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