Blackheaded monitor (Varanus tristis)

Common Name: Blackheaded monitor

Scientific Name: Varanus tristis

Distribution: Northern Australia.

Surroundings: Mainly tree dweller (where available) and rock crevices.

Habitat: Tropical and Subtropical.

Length: 70 - 80 cm

Pattern and color: V.t.orientalis lack the melanistic pattern of V.t.tristis and can furthermore be distinguished by the less spiny scales on the tail. Both are brightly colored as hatchlings, but V.t.orientalis retain most of their young pattern while in V.t.tristis the pattern darkens and is replaced with varying amounts of black as the animals grow.

Sex determination: Males have clusters of spines on either side of the tail base. These spines are much reduced or absent in females.

Enclosure size: 1 m² for a pair. Preferably a high enclosure.

Animals per enclosure: They can be kept in small groups most of the times.

Temperature: Daytime gradient: 22º-27º Celsius.

Daytime baskingspot: 40º-50º Celsius.

Nighttime: +15º Celsius.

Diet: Insects, small reptiles (mainly lizards) , eggs and small mammals.


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Water monitor (Varanus salvator)

Common Name: Water monitor

Scientific Name: Varanus salvator

Distribution: The greatest part of South East Asia, in New Guinea and many surrounding islands. F.e. China, Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Maleisia, Borneo, the Philippines, Indonesia and many surrounding islands like Burma, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, India, ....... )

Habitat: Tropical and Subtropical

Enclosure size: Advised: 6 m² per adult.

Animals per enclosure: These animals are preferably kept solitarily. Their toleration level towards each other isn't that high in smaller enclosures.

Temperature: Daytime gradient: 20º-25º Celsius

Daytime baskingspot: 32º-38º Celsius

Nighttime: +15º Celsius

Diet: Rodents, crabs, fish, birds and insects

Humidity: +50%

Remarks: This species has by far the greatest range of all monitor lizards. Also the most subspecies have been described within this species. It is suspected that even more subspecies within this species will be described in the future.


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Crocodile monitor (Varanus salvadorii)

Common Name: Crocodile monitor

Scientific Name: Varanus salvadorii (Peters & Doria 1878)

Distribution: Southern coast of New Guinea.

Surroundings: Mainly tree dweller.

Habitat: Swamps, forrests and mangroves.

Length: up to 275 cm.

Sex determination: Extremely hard to distinguish; Many animals in the past that were said to be males based on the eversion of their hemipenis laid eggs some time later. The males of this species are most of the times heavier compared to the females. It seems that females spend more time above the ground than males. (based on captive observations).

Enclosure size: Advised: 400 * 200 * 300 cm (l*w*h) for a pair. Preferably a high enclosure.

Animals per enclosure: These animals can best be kept separate except for breeding attempts. They have been known to kill each other or severly injure each other. Serious damage can be caused both by their long teeth and their huge claws.

Temperature: Daytime gradient: 22º-30º Celsius.

Daytime baskingspot: 35º-45º Celsius.

Nighttime: +15º Celsius.

Diet: Reptiles, frogs, birds, eggs and mammals.

Humidity: Over 70%

Remarks: This animal is by some said to be the largest living monitor lizard. Proof of stories of up to 475 cm long animals can however not be given. About two-thirds of its length is made up of tail.


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Rough-necked monitor (Varanus rudicollis)

Common Name: Rough-necked monitor

Scientific Name: Varanus rudicollis (Gray - 1845)

Distribution: Malaysia, Thailand, Burma, Borneo, Bangka, Sumatra and some surrounding islands.

Surroundings: Ground and tree dweller.

Habitat: Rainforests and mangroves.

Length: 100 - 150 cm.

Pattern and color: They are very dark colored (often black). The adults of this species are easily recognized by the large pointed scales in their necks.
Enclosure size: Advised: At least 200 * 70 * 100 for a pair. (l*w*h).

Animals per enclosure: This species can be kept in small groups most of the times. Few rough-necks are aggressive towards other animals in the same enclosure. But keep in mind that some animals will not tolerate others.

Temperature: Daytime gradient: 22º - 30º Celsius

Daytime baskingspot: 40º - 45º Celsius

Nighttime: +22º Celsius

Diet: Insects, crabs, frogs, other small reptiles, eggs and small mammals.


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Kimberley Rock monitor (Varanus glauerti)

Common Name: Kimberley Rock monitor

Scientific Name: Varanus glauerti (Mertens - 1957)

Distribution: Northern Australia (Northern Territory) and a couple of islands of the North Australian coast.

Surroundings: Rocky areas, trees and areas with lots of hiding places like branches and leaves lying around on the ground.

Habitat: Tropical and subtropical.

Length: 60 - 80 cm.

Pattern and color: The animals living in the southern part of their distribution area have a more yellow color compared to the animals living in the northern part of their distribution range.

Sex determination: The males have some larger, bumpy clusters of spines on both sides of the tail base. These spines are lots smaller and not as bumpy on females.

Enclosure size: Advised: 0,5 m² for a pair.

Animals per enclosure: The animals can be kept in small groups. They seem to tolerate each other (same and opposite sex) very well.

Temperature: Daytime gradient: 25º - 32º Celsius

Daytime baskingspot: 35º - 50º Celsius

Nighttime: +18º Celsius

Diet: Insects, small reptiles (mainly small lizards) and small mammals.

Remarks: This is absolutely one of the most beautiful Australian dwarf species with a very stretched long body and beautiful color/pattern. In this species the tail can measure well over twice its body length. An animal with a 20 cm body can measure over 60 cm in total.


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Bosc's monitor lizard (Varanus exanthematicus)

Common Name: Bosc's monitor lizard

Scientific Name: Varanus exanthematicus (Bosc - 1792)

Distribution: Central Africa (i.e. Togo, Ghana, Sudan, Senegal).

Surroundings: Ground dweller.

Habitat: Grasslands.

Length: 80 - 130 cm.


Enclosure size: Advised: 1,5 m² for a pair.


Temperature: Daytime gradient: 24º - 29º Celsius

Daytime baskingspot: 40º Celsius

Nighttime: +18º Celsius

Diet: Insects, reptiles, snails, rodents.

Remarks: Look very similar to Varanus albigularis. These two species get often mixed up in the reptile trade.


www.varanus.nl

Dumeril's monitor (Varanus dumerilii)

Common Name: Dumeril's monitor

Scientific Name:Varanus dumerilii (Schlegel - 1839)

Distribution: Thailand, Malaysia, Borneo, Sumatra and some neighboring islands.

Surroundings: Ground and tree dweller; Mangroves.

Habitat: Tropical and subtropical.

Length: 100 - 135 cm.

Enclosure size: Advised: 2,5 m² for a pair.

Animals per enclosure: This monitor can be kept in small groups.

Temperature: Daytime gradient: 25º - 32º Celsius

Daytime baskingspot: 35º - 40º Celsius

Nighttime: +18º Celsius

Diet: Insects, crabs, fish, eggs, small mammals and birds.

Remarks: The youngsters of this species are brightly colored.


www.varanus.nl

Emerald tree monitor / Green tree monitor (Varanus beccarii (Schlegel - 1839).)

Common Name: Emerald tree monitor / Green tree monitor

Scientific Name: Varanus beccarii (Schlegel - 1839).

Distribution: New Guinea.

Surroundings: 100% Tree dweller (mangroves, cocoa plantations, palm forests and rainforests).

Habitat: Tropical and Subtropical

Length: 75 - 100 cm.

Pattern and color: black.

Sex determination: Males are larger in general; They have larger heads and the base of the male tail is more triangularly shaped. The base of the tail of female animals tends to be more roundly shaped.

Enclosure size: Advised: 100 * 70 * 100 for a pair (l*w*h). At least 100 cm high!!

Animals per enclosure: These animals can be kept in small groups.

Temperature: Daytime gradient: 22º-28º Celsius

Daytime baskingspot: 40º-50º Celsius

Nighttime: +18º Celsius

Diet: Insects, small reptiles, small birds and mammals.

Humidity: +70%

Remarks: This black monitor is one of the few monitor species with the ability to use its tail as a fifth limb. Closely related species are V.prasinus, V.boehmei, V.bogerti, V.keithhornei, V.macraei, V.telenesetes and V.reisingeri.


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White's dwarf goanna/monitor. (Varanus baritji)

Common Name: White's dwarf goanna/monitor.

Scientific Name: Varanus baritji

Distribution: Northern "Northern territory" (Australia).

Surroundings: Rocky areas; they are mainly ground dweller.

Length: up to 72 cm.

Pattern and color: Brown/Red with dark brown or black markings/lines. The underside is whitish yellow to light brown. The throat is bright yellow.

Enclosure size: Advised: 120 * 50 * 50 for a pair. (l*w*h).

Temperature: Daytime gradient: 22º-27º Celsius

Daytime baskingspot: 40º-45º Celsius

Nighttime: +15º Celsius

Diet: Insects, small reptiles and small mammals.

Remarks: This Australian dwarf species looks very similar to V.acanthurus. Even experts have been wrong in the past. The biggest difference between these two species are their markings and pattern. The easiest way to tell the difference is by close comparison. V.baritji lacks the light and dark dorsal neck stripes and the ocellated markings on the back in comparison to V.acanthurus.


www.varanus.nl

White throated monitor (Varanus albigularis)

Common Name: White throated monitor

Scientific Name: Varanus albigularis

Distribution: Central and Southern Africa.

Surroundings: Ground and tree dweller.

Habitat: Dry (steppes, savannahs and prairies).

Length: 100 - 190 cm.

Enclosure size: Advised: 300 * 200 * 150 for a pair. (l*w*h).

Temperature: Daytime gradient: 20º-35º Celsius

Daytime baskingspot: 40º-50º Celsius

Nighttime: +16º Celsius


Diet: Insects, eggs, fish, reptiles, small birds and mammals.


www.varanus.nl

Spiny tailed monitor (Varanus acanthurus)

Scientific Name: Varanus acanthurus

Common Name: Spiny tailed monitor

Distribution: Northern Australia and a couple of islands off the Northern and West coast of Australia.

Surroundings: Mainly ground dweller.

Habitat: Tropical and Subtropical

Length: 45 - 70 cm.
Pattern and color: -

Sex determination: Hard to distinguish; It seems like only experienced Monitor Lizard keepers can determine (guess) the sex. The only 100% guarantee for a male is showing the hemipenis externally. In the other case laying eggs seems to be the only 100% guarantee for an animal of the female sex.
Enclosure size: Advised: 120 * 50 * 50 for a pair. (l*w*h).
The animals can be kept in small groups. Only one male per enclosure. It seems like keeping this species pair wise leads to the best breeding results.
Animals per enclosure: They can be kept in groups most of the times.

Temperature:

Daytime gradient: 24º-28º Celsius

Daytime baskingspot: 45º-55º Celsius

Nighttime: +16º Celsius

Diet: Insects, small reptiles and small mammals.
Humidity: -

Remarks: This is the Australian dwarf species that is by far kept the most in captivity.


www.varanus.nl

Nile Monitors

Nile Monitors

Care Sheet Supplied By : The Snake.Org

Housing : A Nile needs a considerable amount of room. If you start with a 10 gallon aquarium, it will only be adequate for about 3 months, I suggest getting the largest enclosure that you can afford, or you will spend more money by upgrading every few months.

In my opinion the best starter cages are the plastic enclosures made by Neodesha Plastics, but a glass aquarium will work if it is set up properly. Keep in mind that this is only for a juvenile monitor. An adult will eventually need an enclosure at least the size of a walk in closet.
It is best to provide a monitor with a choice of temperature ranges. There should be a basking area that has a constant temperature of 80 to 90 degrees. The other side of the tank is about 10 degrees cooler which allows the monitor to regulate his own body temperature. I use a combination of heat lamps and belly heat. Avoid using "hot rocks" or narrow heat strips, these can become too hot and burn your reptile! I once had a narrow heat strip that became so hot it cracked the glass on the bottom of an aquarium, and charred the wood cabinet it was sitting on. At the present time, I use a 12" wide heat strip under the metal tray of Gus's cage. This provides a constant source of heat that feels only slightly warm the touch. The heat lamp operates on a timer, and is only on for about 6 hours a day. Be extremely careful about the placement of heat lamps. They need to be close enough to provide heat, but not so close that the animal can touch it. The surface of a heat lamp is hot enough to severely injure a curious reptile. Gus is currently living in a cage designed for a large dog. It is three foot by four foot, and three feet tall. The sliding metal tray on the floor makes cleaning much simpler. I don't really like using a cage for a Nile monitor, especially if the monitor is prone to nose rubbing.

My future plans for Gus include a 12X15 room with hills and artificial trees and plants to make the room appear more natural. There will be a large landscaping pool, to be used for soaking and drinking. The pool will be drainable, for easy cleaning and refilling. There will be a drain in the floor at the lowest point in the room. This will allow me to spray down the entire enclosure, as well as Gus. My plan is to be able to feed and clean without disturbing Gus any more than is absolutely necessary.


Cleaning Tips : A young monitor may not seem like too much hassle, but remember, when that baby gets a little bigger, he will be producing copious amounts of solid and liquid waste. If you are lucky, you can go for 2 to 3 days without a mess, but often times you will have to clean every other day. Do not use cedar chips as substrate for a monitor lizard, or any other reptile for that matter. Cedar chips contain an oil that causes skin, and respiratory problems. I have found that the best thing to use is simply old bathroom towels. These can be reused over, and over again, all you have to do is remove any solid waste and put them in the washing machine. It is a good idea to add vinegar and baking soda to the wash, along with regular detergent. A suitable alternative towels is newspaper, which is inexpensive and disposable but tends to be dirty and easily shredded by a Nile monitor's claws.

If a large enough water container is provided, a Nile will almost always defecate in the water. This makes cleaning a lot easier, but care must be taken to disinfect the container before the animal is allowed to drink from it. I use a product called Quatricide to clean all of my cages. It does an excellent job cleaning, and it is completely harmless to the animal.


Feeding : A nile monitors have enormous appetites, and tend to be very aggressive feeders. It is important to keep safety in mind when feeding such an animal. Always use tongs or similar devices to offer food to your monitor, and as an additional precaution heavy leather welding gloves should be worn. Keep a spray bottle of vinegar or rum near the cage in case you are bitten. If the monitor bites you and refuses to release, a squirt of vinegar in the mouth is a safe effective way to make it let go. I used this technique once when I was bitten by my Burmese python who mistook my hand for a rat. I was amazed at how fast she let go of my hand, there wasn't the slightest hesitation. Luckily I have not had to try this on Gus, but I have been told it is equally effective on monitor lizards. If you are feeding a particularly large and/or aggressive monitor have someone else near by in case of an emergency.

Only offer food items that are smaller than the diameter of your monitor lizard's head. It is much easier for a monitor to consume several small items than a single large one. Monitor lizards can not "un-hinge" their jaws in order to accommodate a huge meal the way a snake does. If your monitor seems to be having difficulty swallowing the item, or makes attempts to tear it apart with it's claws, it is probably too large. A juvenile should be fed every two to three days. As it gets older, feeding can slow down to twice a week or less. During the winter when Gus doesn't get as much exercise he only eats once a week. However, this is only acceptable for healthy adult monitors at least 2½ to 3 years old.

At least twice a month I sprinkle Gus's food with a multi-vitamin supplement. My veterinarian told me it is easy to overdose with liquid vitamins, so I stick to powder, or granule types. At about every other feeding add some type of calcium supplement. I have used both pills and powder with varying degrees of success. It may take some trial and error to determine which is easier to sneak past your lizard. Any supplements from a reputable company designed specifically for carnivorous reptiles should be adequate.

Try to provide your monitor with as much variety in their diet as possible. In the wild, nile monitors are opportunistic feeders and will eat just about anything they can find or catch. Adding different food items to a monitor's diet will provide it with different nutrients as well as keeping it from becoming tired of the same old thing The biggest part of a monitors diet should still be whole prey items, such as rodents or birds, the others items are only supplements and do not provide complete nutrition. Be creative with meals but do not give him processed food, such as hamburger, lunchmeat, hot dogs etc. These products have entirely too much salt and additives that can be harmful to your pet. The basic idea is to provide a diet similar to that of a wild nile monitor.

When you feed your nile monitor rodents make sure that you only use pre-killed rodents. Feeding live prey animals to a captive monitor may do more harm than good. A mouse or rat bite can easily become infected, and it only takes one time to seriously wound your pet. I have received several e-mail messages from people who claim they feed live rodents with no problems. I still say it is not worth the risk, and I will continue to suggest that you never under any circumstances feed live prey animals (except worms and insects) to a nile monitor or any other carnivorous reptile.

Several people have asked for suggestions of other things to increase the variety of their monitors diet, so here is a list of some of the things Gus has eaten from time to time ; hamsters , young rats , raw beef heart , brds , baby chickens , chicken gizzards and hearts , eggs , boiled chicken breast , beef steak , goldfish , superworms , fat canned dog food , cat food , green anoles , cockroaches

If you cannot locate embryonated eggs, feed only the yolks. Excessive feeding of whites from non-embryonated eggs can lead to a vitamin B4 deficiency.


How to hande : The first thing to consider about handling a Nile monitor is that they do not like to be handled. Our goal is to learn how to handle a monitor without injury to ourselves or the lizard.

I wear a pair of leather welding gloves when I reach into Gus's enclosure. I know that the gloves will not stop the crushing power of his jaws, but it will take some of the pain out of being smacked by his tail. You may not think you need gloves when your monitor is young, but it is a good idea to familiarize him with the gloves so they will not agitate him later on when you really need them. When necessity compels you to pick up your large monitor, remember to watch out for the tail. When a Nile monitor turns his body sideways, puffs himself full of air and raises his body up high, this is a warning sign that your monitor is on the offensive. This is body language for "back off, or I'm gonna kick your ass." If you don't listen to the warning and get closer to the angry monitor, be prepared for a smack that sounds and feels like a bull-whip. (actually I've never been hit with a bull-whip, but it couldn't be much worse) Gus has got me a few times and it raised welts on my arms and legs, trust me IT HURTS!

Before you attempt to grab the monitor, try throwing a towel over his head as a distraction. I sometimes use a large beach towel that covers most of his body. With the towel in place, take hold of the base of his tail and his neck at the same time. Prepare for a battle as he squirms his body, thrashes his tail, and tries to hook his claws into your arms. Try to pin his tail between your legs and keep holding on to his neck. Use your free hand to wrap the towel around his body, trapping his legs down against his side. Be careful not to use too much pressure or body weight, your monitor may seem incredibly strong, but you can still cause injury while attempting to restrain him.

With the towel wrapped around his body you should be able to move him around or examine him with less chance of being scratched or bitten. If you are planning to trim the toe nails on a large monitor, don't try to do it by yourself. One person should hold the monitor, while the other person carefully pulls one leg at a time from under the towel. Just like cutting the claws of a cat or dog, be careful not to cut too short and cause bleeding. If you are not comfortable with the idea of trimming the claws yourself, either leave them alone or seek the help of your veterinarian.

The more you work with them while they are young, the better your chances are for having a manageable adult monitor. Some monitors will never get accustomed to being handled, and are better off left alone. If you find yourself with this type of monitor, just take him for what he is and use utmost caution when you have to handle him.




Copyright © 1999 Jason Hay & Www.TheSnake.Org

BASIC CAPTIVE CARE FOR THE GOLDEN TEGU

BASIC CAPTIVE CARE FOR THE GOLDEN TEGU

Common Name: Gold Tegu

Scientific Name: Tupinambis teguixin ssp.
Distribution: South America
Size: 3'
NATURAL HABITAT :

This terrestrial lizards inhabits the tropical rain forests
of Northern Argentina to South America.
In captivity a adult pair will require at least a 72"x24"x24"
vivarium, bigger if possible
BEHAVIOUR :

We find these lizards to be fairly aggressive, and is usually
a very active and difficult lizard to handle, but can become
tame with regular handling.
Likes to burrow, provide plenty of hiding places inside the
vivarium.
CAPTIVE ENVIRONMENT :

Use UV lighting 12-14 hours per day (Arcadia D3).
Provide a basking area with access to a cooler area.
This lizard likes plenty of hiding places (imitation plants)
rocks, logs and lots of climbing branches.
TEMPERATURE :

Daytime temperature should be:
Basking Area 85 to 90 degrees F.
Cool Area 78 degrees F.
Night temperature should range between 70-78 degrees F.
Use a reptile heat mat for 24-hour ground heat inside the
vivarium.
HUMIDITY / WATER REQUIREMENTS :

This species requires moderate to high levels of humidity.
Supply a large fairly deep bowl for drinking and bathing.
Supply a humid burrow of moist moss, change this every 3/4
days. Mist the vivarium once or twice a week
NUTRITIONAL REQUIREMENTS :

You should offer this lizard some fruit, also eggs, but will
eat mostly appropriate sized rodents mice, rats. rabbit pups.
Will also take Giant mealworm, waxworm and Locusts.
Always offer a variety of foods to ensure proper nutrition.
Always dust food with a good calcium/vitamins supplement.

Basic Care For The Calotes Tree Dragon

Basic Care For The Calotes Tree Dragon


Common Name: Calotes Tree Dragon
Scientific Name: Calotes Versicolor
Distribution: Sumatra, Southern China, Sri Lanka
Size: Between 13" and 16"
Temperament:
Usually very nervous when first acquired, But soon settles down in
captivity. These lizards can be kept in mixed groups.

Hardiness:
Calotes are quite hardy Lizards, Fairly inexpensive and fairly easy to
maintain in captivity.

Sexing:
Males are larger then the females and have a dorsal crest, They can
also develop a red or blue head when excited.

Food / Water:
Crickets, Wax Worms, Mealworms will all be readily taken.They
will also take pinkie mice, Always use a good Calcium / Vitamin
dusting Supplement. Provide fresh drinking and bathing water daily.
Also Mist Once a day.

Housing:
A well ventilated Vivarium 3'x2'x12" will house a pair of Calotes.
For substrate use bark chippings mixed with Sand. For decor use
branches, driftwood, artificial plants, rocks, cork bark. Calotes
love to climb so provide lots of climbing branches.

Temperature / Humidity:
Day time 78f - 88f, Night time 70f - 75f. Moderate to high humidity,
this can be achieved by regular misting of the vivarium.

Heating / Lighting:
The use of full spectrum U.V. lighting is recommended for this
species. You can use a incandescent light bulb with reflector to heat
the vivarium during the day and a heat mat placed under the substrate
for constant ground heat. The heat mat should cover approximately one
half of the vivarium floor.

© 1999 The REPTILE House Animal Allsorts

Argentine Black and White Tegu

Keeping and Breeding the Argentine Black and White Tegu

By Bert Langerwerf of AGAMA

scientific differences between Argentine and Columbian tegus

The differences discussed below apply to Argentine Black & White tegus and all Columbian tegus. Thus with "Columbian tegu" I mean any tegu coming from Columbia, and with "Argentine tegu" I mean the Argentine Black & White tegu. Now let's talk about the scientific name of this tegu. It used to be called Tupinambis teguixin until not too long ago. But their new name is Tupinambis merianae. The Columbian tegus are now called Tupinambis teguixin. There is a definite biological difference between these two species. One difference, among many, is that the Argentine tegu, T. merianae, has two loreal scales while the Columbian tegu, T. teguixin, has only one (see diagram below). The Argentine Black & White tegu is also called the giant tegu, as it is the largest tegu in the world.

Also easily observed is the difference in skin types. The Argentine Black & White tegu has a beaded skin, like that of a gila monster or an anolis. The Columbian tegus have very smooth scales that completely cover the animal. The Columbian tegus are smooth, like a skink almost. The Argentine Black & White tegus also have two linear arrays of yellow dots, one on each side of its back, running from the neck to the beginning of the tail . Those yellow dots form two clearly visible lines on the Argentine tegu's back. The Columbian tegus lack such lines. A non-scientific way to tell a Columbian tegu from an Argentine Black & White tegu is by knowing the purchasing price of the tegu you are looking at. If the price is around $100 or less (most likely $50), than you have a Columbian tegu. Also, by probability theory, the odds of seeing a Columbian tegu are much higher than the odds of seeing an Argentine tegu, simply because the Argentine tegu is much rarer and impossible to export from Argentina.

Our Argentine tegus are the largest tegus of South America, reaching more than four feet in length. Having kept in captivity both the Argentine and Colombian tegus, I can say that the Argentine tegus are also less jumpy than the Colombian ones. Furthermore, the Argentine Giant tegus are cold tolerant and can even be placed in hibernation. Thus no expensive heating devices are needed to keep the Argentine Giant tegu healthy in captivity; they can be kept outside in many places. A very important thing to note is that these Argentine Giant tegus are very intelligent and thus also much more easily tamed than Columbian tegus. Important too is the fact that our Argentine tegus do not only eat meat as the Colombian tegus do, but also a lot of fruits, vegetables, cat-foods, and breads. If your tegu does not eat anything besides meat products, it is most likely a Columbian tegu of some sort.

Tameness of these tegus

If your goal is to get a tame tegu we recommend that you start out with a young tegu as those are most easily tamed. It has been found that the Argentine tegus (T. merianae and T. rufescens) are the most tamable of all tegus in the world. We also have a few Columbian tegus (Tupinambis teguixin) kept inside. But even though they see us everyday they keep being jumpy and frequently slam their tails on the glass or into the water bowl making a big mess. Our Argentine B/W tegus we also see daily, but they are never afraid of us or anybody else visiting our place. They either stay where they are, sleeping or basking, or come closer to you sticking their tongues out to investigate. This suggests that they are the tamer tegus of South America. Furthermore, Bert went to Argentina to film the tegus there and had no problem photographing them in the wild. They even were in some city parks. There are plenty of stories going around about Argentine Black & White Tegus stealing fishbait AND lunch from fishermen! Bert also witnessed the tegus in the park begging for food from picnickers, just like squirrels do in New York or L.A., for example. Our good friend Dick Bartlett (author of many Barron herp books) told us that he had the greatest difficulties photographing any of the Columbian tegus when he was in Columbia. He could not approach them at all, as the Columbian tegus ran away once they got a glimpse of him (or anybody else). Thus under similar circumstances, both in nature and in captivity, the Columbian tegus behave more frightened of humans and are therefore far less tame than the Argentine tegus. That is why we believe that the Argentine Black & White Tegus are the most tamable tegus of the world!

range and climate

In 1989, I received my first group of Argentine black and white tegus. Comparing the temperate climate in Argentina with the climate in Alabama, where I now live, I felt that Argentine tegus could be kept and bred here outdoors. The key would be to design large outdoor terraria in such a way that the microclimate would be similar to the one found where these lizards naturally occur.

The southern-most point of its range in Argentina is 41"S latitude. Outside the country of Argentina, this lizard occurs in portions of Uruguay and Brazil.

The Argentine black and white tegu is a versatile lizard. It ranges from tropical Amazonia south to more temperate regions that have moderate temperatures and cold winters. I chose to try to duplicate the climate of Victoria in the mid-north of the province of La Pampa, at 36"13'S and 65"26'W. This region of Argentina is temperate, and it is also home to the red tegu (T. rufescens).

In the county of Uruguay, the Argentine black and white tegu lives in stony meadows, river valleys and in the mountains. Both Dr. F. Achaval and Dr. J. Cei state that this tegu is an excellent swimmer, and that, if threatened, it can stay under water for a long time.

diet of the Argentine Black & White tegu

According to Achaval (1977), its food consists mainly of insects, snails, bird eggs, fruits, and vegetables. Dr. Cei (1986) writes that this lizard eats birds, small mammals, insects, mollusks, fish, amphibians, and fruit. Claudia Mercolli and Alberto Yanosky describe the food more extensively in the Journal of the British Herpetocultural Society (1994, vol. 4). They examined the stomach contents of 70 Argentine black and white tegus (bought from hide-hunters) in northeastern Argentina. They found that 66.8 % of the stomach contents consisted of vegetable matter; 12.9 % were invertebrates; and 20.3 % were vertebrates. This stands in contrast to what herpetoculturists tend to feed their tegus: almost 100% rodents and eggs. Dr. Fred Frye (1981) warns that the overuse of infertile bird eggs, such as readily available chicken eggs, can result in a lack of biotin.

hibernation of these tegus

These tegus can hibernate. The life cycle of the Argentine black and white tegu in my outdoor enclosure has been extremely interesting to observe. In the middle of August, when it is still hot here in Alabama, they start to refuse food and begin preparing their burrows for hibernation. They tend to all dig and prepare one large sleeping chamber. In the middle of September, they are all inside that chamber despite temperatures of 80 to 90 F during the day. The tegus close the burrow from the inside with earth. Any time during the winter when I open this to check it, they closed it again with earth afterwards. They stay in this burrow or chamber for 6 months to emerge again, covered by dirt and mud, in mid-March. It is not until April that they resume feeding. They have a 4 month activity burst in April, May, June, and July. During this time, they eat all they can find and catch.

reproduction

The first reproduction I observed with captives of this species was at 3 years of age. The sub adult female produces about 36 eggs, which hatch after 3 months under natural conditions. The neonate Argentine tegus were shiny green and about 3.1 inches in SVL (snout vent length) and 7.8 inches in TL (total length).


........


The average SVL of the hatchlings was 3.5 inches, and average TL was 9.3 inches. In the first two months of life, young Argentine tegus exhibit an interesting behavior. If caught and handled, their tail starts vibrating in a manner not unlike that of some colubrid snakes. My juvenile Argentine black and white tegus regularly accept crickets, mealworms, and pinkie mice. They grow quite quickly in outdoor vivaria with exposure to natural sunlight in Alabama. At 19 days after hatching they start shedding their skin and their green color begins to fade. At 1 month of age, the green color is almost gone. At 32 days old, the length of one was 5.1 inch SVL and 14.6 inch TL. At 2 months of age, one tegu was 5.8 inch SVL and 16.3 inch TL and weighed 5 oz. (142 gram).

nest building observed only in Argentine Black & White tegus

In May 1995, I observed a gravid female busily moving material to its nesting site. In 30 years of breeding lizards of many different families, I have never before observed a lizard using nesting material not already in the nest hole. These lizards were making nests as crocodilians do!



This Care Sheet was Supplied By Agama International

Monitors

Biology

Monitors include the largest of all lizard species alive today. The are fairly robust animals with strong legs and sharp claws. The tail is about half the total length and unlike other lizards, it is not easily shed. They show a variety of colours and patterns depending on species and all come from Africa, Asia and Australia. The animals offered as pets are often wild caught and are usually sold as juveniles. The species of Monitor most often available include:



· Bosc (Varanus exanthematicus)

· Water (Varanus salvator)

· Nile (Varanus niloticus)

· White Throated (Varanus albigularis)

· Rough necked (Varanus rudicollis)

· Dumeril's (Varanus dumerilli)

· Argus (Varanus panoptes)

· Spiny Tailed (Varanus acanthurus)

Housing

Monitors are best housed in as large a cage as possible. Because of their rapid rate of growth and the heating and lighting equipment they need, purpose made vivaria are probably the most appropriate. The types with sliding glass doors to the front being especially resistant to escape. Another often-used cage is a converted aquarium. A special adapting lid is used to contain the reptiles and house any equipment that may be used. As a guide the cage should be a minimum 60 cm x 30 cm x 30 cm for a single hatchling but 200 cm x 60 cm x 60 cm for a pair of animal, each about 80 cm in total length. Of course, the cage could be larger as this would allow the animal room to grow and make it easier for the owner to manage the environment. The cage should be set up in a manner similar to the diagram over leaf. It will be necessary to provide a local hot spot near 40ºC, while the coolest part of the cage should be nearer 28ºC. The hot spot can easily be arranged by installing a Basking Spot Lamp. To ensure the cage does not overheat, the lamp is best controlled with a HabiStat Dimming Thermostat. White and UV light, from a lamp like a Reptile D3 tube, may be needed and should be present for a similar period; about sixteen hours per day in summer dropping to eight in winter. Remember to change UV lamps at least once each year. Much of the success achieved in keeping Monitors will come from the skilful manipulation of ventilation. The lizards often prefer high humidity but cannot tolerate stagnant air conditions. Fresh air moving into the cage is essential. Use the upward draughts caused by heated air rising to flush out the cage and drag fresh air in. Another way to increase air movement is to use a MiniFan. A light daily misting with a hand sprayer will provide any humidity required.

Husbandry

Monitors are best kept singly or as pairs. Of course the more lizards kept in each cage, the larger the cage should be. Males will tend to fight as they reach maturity, so no more than one should be present in the cage. In any case, there should be plenty of retreats and visual screens. Watch out for bullying, particularly amongst animals of different sizes. To handle a monitor the whole animal should be gently grasped and held in the hands. This, of course, requires both the lizard and handler to be relaxed about handling. If either is nervous or there is a real risk to either, a more secure method is called for. One hand is used to support the neck and shoulders and the other grasps the base of the tail. Both hands should control the animal and stop it from wriggling free or injuring itself. At the same time the handler should take care not to be bitten, scratched or whipped with the tail. As the animal grows handling usually gets easier. Many fully-grown animals are quite tame and tractable. Monitors seem to be aware of their human keepers and may distinguish males from females; sometimes tolerating one but not the other! In time the cage will begin to look scruffy as faeces and debris builds up. As everything recommended for the cage is washable or disposable, a good clean out is easily done. Eight to ten weeks would be about as long as the cage could be left before being completely cleaned. The cage set up advised in this leaflet is practicable and can be made to look pleasing to the eye. If a more natural set up is envisaged, it may be best to wait until some experience is gained. In any case, some of the very informative books on Lizards in general and Monitors in particular could be investigated.

Food & Feeding

Insects like crickets, locusts and mealworms form the staple diet in captivity. Insects should be dusted with Repton. Alternatively, they can be fed Cricket Diet Plus and Mealworm Diet Plus respectively to 'load' the insect with vitamins and minerals but do not do both! About once a week, small monitors should be offered a frozen rodent pup or commercially prepared, fresh meat reptile diet, both of which should be thoroughly thawed. Dead food is best supplemented with a sprinkling of Reptavite. These lizards grow very rapidly, so any dietary deficiency will quickly result in deformity. Calcium and the associated vitamin D3 being particularly important. As the monitor grows, it will need a diet of defrosted frozen, whole rodents and birds. A dish kept full of clean, fresh water should always be available. The lizards will use this both for drinking and as a bath. On leaving the water, the conditions in the cage should enable the animal to dry out completely within about half an hour. A small cage may only allow a small dish for drinking; in which case a larger dish can be given once or twice each week for bathing.

Reproduction

Male monitors are proportionately larger than the females and they may have slightly broader heads. Definitive sexing is, however, usually quite difficult and best left to an expert. A period of courtship proceeds mating and during this time much activity can be expected. Eggs are laid after mating and they may take several weeks to hatch. A cooler winter period will be needed to condition the lizards for breeding in the following season. As mature monitors are quite large breeding, needs a substantial enclosure and is not too common in captivity.

Health & Disease

Monitors live for many years in the wild but seem to live even longer in captivity. They do not suffer from many diseases and veterinary attention is rarely needed. An environment and diet as described in this leaflet will preclude most problems. The most often encountered disease will be a metabolic bone disorder caused by insufficient vitamin D3 or calcium. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet lizards do not pose a real threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be observed.


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Savannah Monitor

Common Name: Savannah Monitor

Latin name: Varanus exanthematicus

Native to: Sub-Saharan Africa, from Senegal to Sudan. Found north of the Congo river. Lives in tropical savannahs with seasonal drenching monsoons punctuating extended periods of parched weather.

Size: Typically 2.5 to 4 feet, although rare 5 foot specimens are known.

Life span: 10 to 15 years if given proper care.

General Appearance: This is a stocky monitor with a blocky head, equipped with large,
powerful limbs and large talons. The neck and tail are short for a monitor, but still long compared to many lizards. It is colored shades of brown and grey, typically with faint pale spots on its back, darker bands across its tail, and a white underside. Enlarged scales on its neck give it a pebbly appearance. A long, forked, purple tongue is used by the lizard to smell its environment.

Housing requirements:

Enclosure: Adults will need a set-up about the size of a dinner table or large sofa. Plan on 4 feet by 8 feet of floor space. A design that works well uses a galvanized
steel stock watering tank as the base with a plywood box of 8 feet long by 4 feet
deep by 4 feet tall set on top. The stock tank holds the deep substrate, the box
allows room to move around above the ground. Limit ventilation, especially on
the hot side of the cage, to prevent turning your enclosure into a dehydration
machine. Avoid using wire mesh of any kind, instead use glass or plexiglass to
maintain adequate humidity. Young animals can be maintained in aquaria of appropriate sizes with a basking light set overhead and a sheet of plexiglass over
the top to limit moisture loss.

Temperature: The cool side of the cage should be between 75 and 80 degrees F, with
temperatures increasing to 90º to 100 º F on the hot end with basking spots as
large as the lizard's body that reach 110 º to 130 º F. Night time temperatures can
fall to normal room temperature.

Heat/Light: A warm basking spot should be provided by radiant light. Racks of flood
lamps work well for this, plan on 3 to 4 lamps at 60 to 120 watts each. Adjust the
height above the basking spot to reach the ideal temperature. Supplemental heat
can be supplied by large, robust heat mats such as "pig blankets." The lizard
should be able to rest its entire body on the mat. Ultraviolet light is not necessary.

Substrate: Dirt provides the best substrate. It needs to be deep enough to allow the lizard to construct tunnels and burrows naturally. This provides not only security, but helps with regulating humidity and temperature. Beware, not all dirt is created
equal. Go to a nursery or landscape supply business and choose a dirt that holds a
burrow and humidity, drains well, is not too dusty, and does not turn to slime
when wet. Fill the monitor's cage to a depth of two feet.

Environment: Be careful not to let your savannah monitor get too dry. Aim for humidtropical air without making the cage wet. Savannah monitors become inactive in
the dry season; a dry cage coupled with readily available food will lead to obesity
and health problems. Logs and sticks, particularly hollow logs, provide exercise
and entertainment. A large cat litter pan can be used for providing water. Live
plants will quickly be destroyed by a curious and active monitor.

Diet: Insects can make up the bulk of the monitor's diet, supplemented by an occasional rodent.
Lightly dust insects with a reptile vitamin and mineral powder. Large cockroaches, such as Madagascar hissing roaches, are especially relished. If you can collect snails and earthworms from pesticide free areas, add these to your lizard's diet to round it out. A diet based largely on rodents may also be used, but it is unknown if this will cause health problems in the long term (wild savannah monitors eat almost entirely invertebrates). Feed whole food items whenever possible, avoid canned foods, cuts of meat, and cat or dog foods. Multiple small food items are preferable to one large meal. Feed daily. Savannah monitors are prone to obesity, feed juveniles as much as they will eat but adjust the diet of adults as needed. Fasts, possibly lasting several months, may be useful for controlling weight.

Maintenance: Clean up feces and urates as soon as you notice them, inspect the cage at least once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water when it becomes soiled or dirty and scrub out the dish. The top substrate can dry out, but make sure it remains moist (not wet) underneath. Add a few buckets of water to the cage as necessary to keep the substrate slightly damp.

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Nile Monitor

Common Name: Nile Monitor

Latin Name: Varanus niloticus
Note: Nile monitors are illegal to own in New York State without a license. If you need to look at a care sheet for this species, you should think twice about owning a Nile: These are large, powerful lizards that almost never calm down. Their paranoid attitude leads them to see their keepers as threats all their lives, and they have no hesitation about defending themselves with blows from their tail, ripping with their talons, or bone-crushing bites from their vice like jaws - not to mention projectile defecation on their perceived aggressors. Almost any other monitor species (with the exception of the Komodo dragon) is better suited as a pet.

Native to: Africa, from Egypt to South Africa. Found anywhere there is water.

Size: Typically 4 to 6 feet, although rare 8 foot specimens are known.

Life span: 10 to 15 years if given proper care.

General appearance: This is a large, powerful lizard with a long neck and tail. Large powerful limbs are equipped with long talons. A flattened ridge down the back of the tail helps in swimming. A blue-purple forked tongue darts in and out of the mouth when the monitor is in motion or interested. The ground color varies from white to yellow-green, with markings of grey to black forming a band across the eyes, hashes crossing the mouth, chevrons down the neck, bands of spots across the body, spots on the limbs, and rings around the tail. Usually, you will see its threat display - an expanded neck pouch, arched neck, body held high off the ground, tail cocked to deliver a powerful whipping blow, and a loud hiss. Housing

requirements:

Enclosure: Even a small adult Nile monitor will need a set-up about the size of a dinner table or large sofa. Larger animals will require an entire room for an enclosure. When converting a room for a monitor cage, remember that these animals can dig through dry wall, so you will need to reinforce the walls. Avoid wire mesh in construction of your cage. This not only lets the heat and humidity out, but large monitors can dig even through heavy gauge hardware cloth. Limit ventilation, especially around the warmer side of the cage, in order to keep the humidity up.

Temperature: The cool side of the enclosure should be between 75º and 80º F, with temperatures increasing to 90º to 100º F on the hot end with basking spots as large as the lizard's body that reach 110º to 130º F. Night time temperatures can fall to normal room temperature.

Heat/Light: A warm basking spot should be provided by radiant light. Racks of flood lamps work well for this, plan on 3 to 6 lamps at 90 to 120 watts each. Adjust the height above the basking spot to reach the ideal temperature. Supplemental heat can be supplied by large, robust heat mats such as "pig blankets." The lizard should be able to rest its entire body on the mat. Ultraviolet light is not necessary.

Substrate: Dirt provides the best substrate. It needs to be deep enough to allow the lizard to construct tunnels and burrows naturally. This provides not only security, but helps with regulating humidity and temperature. Beware, not all dirt is created equal. Go to a nursery or landscape supply business and choose a dirt that holds a burrow and humidity, drains well, is not too dusty, and does not turn to slime when wet. Fill the monitor's cage to a depth of 2 to 3 feet.

Environment: Nile monitors require access to a pool of water for swimming and drinking. Depending on the lizard's size, a cat litter pan or a concrete mixing trough can serve, although small stock watering tanks may be necessary for larger individuals. Sturdy branches will allow your lizard to exercise by climbing. Try to keep the humidity up without drenching the cage. Live plants are pointless, your Nile monitor will quickly destroy them.

Diet: Adult Nile monitors can be fed a staple diet of frozen-thawed mice or rats. Other food items will be eagerly accepted, but are not necessary for balanced nutrition - feed them only for your entertainment or that of the monitor. Juveniles can be raised on a diet of insects dusted with vitamin and mineral powder and appropriately sized rodents. Maintenance: Clean up feces and urates as soon as you notice them, inspect the cage at least once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water when it becomes soiled or dirty and scrub out the dish. The top substrate can dry out, but make sure it remains moist (not wet) underneath. Add a few buckets of water to the cage as necessary to keep the substrate slightly damp.

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Columbian Black and White Tegu

Common Name: Columbian Black and White Tegu Latin name: Tupinambis teguixin


Native to: Can be found throughout the Amazon Basin, especially Columbia


Size: Adults reach between 3 and 3.5 feet in length and usually weighs about 8 pounds.
General appearance: The common tegu has black and white stripes or spots with smooth scales and are similar in build to monitor species. Care should be taken to not confuse the Columbian black and white tegu with the Argentine black and white tegu (T. merianae). The Argentine tegu is larger and (reaching up to 4.5 feet in length) and often have a more distinctive striped pattern. Tegus should not be confused as monitors, which are strictly and old world species. Tegus fill the same ecological niche as monitors and are an example of convergent evolution.


Housing requirements:


Enclosure: Adult tegus require a large enclosure. Generally the enclosure should be at least six
feet in length and three feet in width. These lizards are primarily terrestrial and do not
necessarily require a large vertical space to climb. A good general rule of thumb for an
enclosure should be twice the length of the animal in length and the length of the animal
in width. Tegus enjoy soaking and the occasional swim, so a large water dish that they
can soak themselves should be provided. A hide box should also be provided at all times.


Temperature: The Columbian tegu is a tropical species and should be kept warm with a fairly
stable temperature gradient. Ambient temperature should be approximately 85° F with a
basking spot of 100° to 110° F. Nighttime temperatures should be about 75° F.
Heat/Light: Both UVA and UVB light is recommended for these lizards and can be provided with proper fluorescent bulbs. Heat can be provided with infrared heat bulbs, basking bulbs, or
ceramic emitters. Newer Active UV bulbs now available can be used as well. These selfballasted
bulbs provide UVA and UVB light as well as heat.


Substrate: Tegus like to burrow and will appreciate a substrate that they can burrow through.
Care should be used when selecting a substrate because some substrates may cause
impaction, especially in juveniles. Substrates like newspaper and indoor-outdoor
carpeting are easy to clean but do not allow for burrowing. Substrate like peat moss
and/or vermiculite holds humidity very well and provides for burrowing but can be very
messy. Under no circumstances should cedar be used, since it has been proved to be
toxic. Pine shavings are also not recommended.


Environment: Because tegus come from the tropics, the enclosure should be kept in a humid
environment. Ambient humidity should be at least 40% and greater is usually preferred.
It may be necessary to block a portion of a screen top to achieve this level of humidity.


Diet: Tegus are natural scavengers as well as predators. As such they require a large and varied diet. Tegus can be fed rodents, small insects (such as crickets, mealworms, and others), canned high quality dog or cat food or even commercially prepared tegu diet. Ground turkey can also be used as well. Unlike monitors, tegus do require fruits as part of their diet. As much as half the diet for adult tegus can consist of fruits. Juvenile tegus generally will require more protein than adults. A good reptile multi-vitamin is also suggested to help keep the lizard healthy. As with all captive animals live or wild prey is not recommended due to the risk of injury and parasites to the animal. When feeding tegus it is not recommended to use your hands because they will often associate your hands with food and can become hazardous to handle. When feeding use tongs or a tray to avoid this problem.


Maintenance: The enclosure should be spot cleaned daily and disinfected weekly. If using indoor/outdoor
carpeting it is recommended to have at least two sets for ease of cleaning. This will allow you to
simply swap the clean carpeting for the soiled so you may clean it. A 5% bleach solution is an
excellent disinfectant. Be sure to thoroughly rinse the enclosure and carpeting before placing the
tegu back. The water dish should be emptied and cleaned daily as soaking tegus will often
defecate in the water dish.


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