Viper Boa Care (Candoia aspera aspera)

Viper Boa Care (Candoia aspera aspera)

Viper Boas are a extraordinary species of snake to behold at. They are very robust, with tough 'keeled' scales and an arrow like head. They are usually a fairly wearisome brown, although can be a incredible brilliant red or orange. They do however, change colour with seasons, temperature and perhaps mood changes. I have had improbable orangey specimens turn a gloomy brown with time. Nearly all Viper Boas are wild caught, in fact, I have not heard of any successful breeder who has bred and reared these. Gravid (pregnant) females are often imported and have their young in captivity. However, most of these die within 6 months for cramped or no apparent reason. In time, we can hopefully learn more about this species and successfully reproduce it in captivity. Viper Boas are fairly collected snakes, but when handled incorrectly can swipe from side to side with lighting bustle. Although they are non-venomous, they have quite a immoral bite. Adult females can advance 80cm; males are less than half the size.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to understanding the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically graceful and also wait on in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the snake's life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and end it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Viper Boa, a vivarium 60cm Length x 45cm Width x 45cm Height is enormous. This is a alarmed species; many specimens when bought into captivity can go for many months without feeding. It is necessary that this transitional period is as stress-free as possible. A minute, confined enclosure with no added lighting, away from human 'traffic' may be needed. Once the boa is feeding on a regular basis, a larger vivarium with lighting may be offered.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly customary is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be obsolete for Viper Boas, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the current aquarium lid. It is well-known when thinking about what type of enclosure you spend, you assume about these 6 'SSSHHH' factors:

1) Safety - Can the snake or owner wound itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?

2) regain - Can the snake flee through any itsy-bitsy hole or cavity?

3) Size - Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?

4) Heating - Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?

5) Humidity - Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to run?

6) Hygienic - Will the enclosure develop up a lot of bacteria in exiguous cavities? Is it easy to well-organized?

By following the steps above, you can have a grand enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Décor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra mask for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and magnificent appearance. When choosing décor, reflect about the safety of the snake. earn distinct that whatever you resolve to spend, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can tumble and possibly harm, or even raze the snake. You must also design definite that everything passe is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally advance from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or set the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then superior to state inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can set aside pressure on an item to knock it down, a Viper Boa is certainly wonderful of doing so. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, beget obvious they are completely earn. If it is level-headed uneasy, screw them or expend superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not location the item in the vivarium!

If you resolve to go for a larger enclosure, you must provide plenty of veil and hiding areas. A hiding site can be anything from a tupperware box with a hole sever out to a naturalistic portion of cork bark. There are many brands of groundless plants and décor you can exhaust which is both favorable for the animal and glorious to the ogle. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is superior shroud for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must deem when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding spot per foot in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never spend sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. hold me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Viper Boas are found on dense forest floors and are exposed to a fairly constant air temperature. They do not bask in the sun and so it is not as significant to provide them with a dedicated hot state. Instead, having a fairly constant air temperature of 85-90ºF during the day and 80-85ºF during the night is comely. A immense water bowl should be offered for the snake to fully submerge if required. If your viper boa does this constantly, the vivarium is most probably too hot and should be cooled down slightly.

In my plan, the ideal procedure of heating a Viper Boa's enclosure is to exercise a power plate. This is a puny thin square plate, about 25mm thick which is screwed into the top of the vivarium. It does not need to be protected, as there is no contrivance a snake can grip onto it. It is almost invisible to the spy as it simply sits on the ceiling of the vivarium. The only heed available in the UK is HabiStat Reptile Radiator; it is 75 Watts and is sufficient for any vivarium up to 4ft long and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a produce of lighting as well. A power plate should be extinct in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will cessation the power reaching the power plate as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn wait on on as soon as it is too frosty. This is one of the most right thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, area bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my view, none quite weigh out to be as favorable as a power plate.

Lighting

Viper Boas are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the shadowy of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. Lighting for this species is not distinguished. However, having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically exquisite to the owner, and is a qualified addition to a snake's enclosure. They will utilize this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light position to.

They do not require any effect of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly passe for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a qualified originate of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12" up to 48" and I suggest you exercise the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium.

Humidity

Viper Boas occur over great of modern Guinea and surrounding Islands and therefore are exposed to a high humidity. This should be replicated in captivity to wait on to the general health and well-being of your snake. A 80-90% humidity range will allow to snake to slough it's skin properly and become less prone to any problems such as respiratory infections.

Feeding

Juveniles or males should be offered fuzzy or cramped mice, and as they grow the mice or rats should become larger. An adult female viper boa should be fed on weaner rats. One of these every 2 weeks is mammoth. An adult male may choose fuzzy rats or grand mice. Juveniles should be fed on a regular basis, every 7 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is higher than adults and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to withhold them going. Viper Boas have a obscene metabolism compared to many snakes, they recede very exiguous and do not require the same quantity of food that many other species do. Snakes have the capability of building up a sizable chunky reserve, and become obese very easily. Taking the weight off however, is a great more difficult task. Obese snakes will not live nearly the length as a healthy snake would due to liver and kidney problems. If you are unsure about your snake's weight, check with a reptile veterinarian.