General Care and Maintenance of Sand Boas

General Care and Maintenance of Sand Boas (Eryx & Gongylophis)

Appeared in 'Reptilia' Magazine, exclaim 34

Sand boas of the genera Eryx and Gongylophis have long had an undeserved reputation of being stupid pets. Most first-time snake buyers slay up deciding on a colourful corn snake, kingsnake, or other cramped, easy-to-keep colubrid. Fact is, most species of sand boas are also simple to care for, and because they are smaller and slower engaging, are also easier to handle -- so they are suitable for beginners. There are a number of species to decide from, and many specimens are intricately patterned, without even mentioning the variety of colour morphs on the market. Sand boas are primarily nocturnal, meaning they are active mostly at night.

This article is a general overview on the care of sand boas. I justify the methods that have worked best for me, which should wait on as a reference for determining the species and methods that are best for you.

Housing

Sand boa housing can be anything from a simple tupperware box to a naturalistic vivarium setup. For a baby sand boa, I recommend a tupperware box no larger than 10 x 6 x 4 inches (ca. 25 x 15 x 10 cm) LxWxH. A minute first enclosure helps the young snake feel accumulate, and also helps stimulate a feeding response during this period when the snake may be a finicky eater.

A exiguous adult male can be housed in a tupperware box of approximately 10 x 10 x 6 inches (25 x 25 x 15 cm) LxWxH. A itsy-bitsy enclosure increases the chances of a splendid feeding response, which is especially considerable for males because they tend to posthaste for several weeks at a time throughout the year. I preserve larger adult males in tubs measuring 16 x 10 x 6 inches (ca. 40 x 25 x 15 cm) .

For housing an adult female of a smaller species, I recommend a minimum enclosure size of 20 x 12 x 6 inches (ca. 50 x 30 x 15 cm) LxWxH; for an adult female of a larger species, a minimum of 24 x 18 x 6 inches (ca. 60 x 45 x 15 cm) .

Females of all species are often easier to care for than males (I would suggest acquiring females if possible) . Females are generally not dilemma feeders, and are also generally larger and more active than males, making them easier to salvage in the enclosure. These factors create females easier than males to house in naturalistic enclosures. A 4-foot-long (122 cm) desert vivarium can be very fine and should be considered by anyone who wants to support these snakes as pets.

Whichever type of enclosure you settle to expend, generous ventilation is very significant.

Tupperware boxes are virtually airtight, so holes must be drilled in the sides. I recommend a row of holes, every 2 centimetres, around the sides. To prevent escapes, the diameter of the holes should be no more than 2 millimetres for the smallest babies, and no more than 3-4 millimetres for larger snakes. I prick larger holes (50 mm) and hide them with fine-mesh zinc veil. There should be no rough edges left after drilling.

Décor

Creating a naturalistic vivarium setup can be very satisfying, but one rule should always apply: Safety first! All heavy objects must be carefully secured so that the snake cannot gain them fade -- by climbing, pushing, or burrowing -- and possibly be crushed. The layout should also be sensible. However gorgeous it might seem to build a rock pile in the vivarium, finding your snake within it would be practically impossible. gain the decoration so that you have easy access to every piece of the enclosure without having to go heavy objects.

Anything that goes into the enclosure must be cleaned thoroughly beforehand. A passe solution of bleach in warm water is adequate for washing cage furnishings. Rocks, wood, bark, and artificial plants are all attractive for the sand boa enclosure. Driftwood is commonly available in many pet shops, and makes first-rate décor for any terrarium.

determined types of live cactus can be extinct, but these must be carefully chosen to avoid accidents. finish away from those with lots of spines that the snake would have pain gliding between. Also avoid spines that are soft and near off easily, as these could net into the snake's eyes and mouth. Other dessert plants such as stonecrop can also be frail.

Heating

I exercise two types of heating for sand boas: heat mats for my racks of tubs, and basking lamps (in conjunction with fluorescent lighting) for my naturalistic setups.

Whichever way is conventional, a daytime hot situation should be kept at about 90ºF (32°C), and the snake should always be able to retreat to a cooler residence kept at about 78ºF (25°C) . Nighttime temperature can topple to about 76-80ºF (24-27°C) overall. Heat sources MUST be connected to a thermostat to automatically control temperatures. I exercise pulse-proportional thermostats for heat mats, and dimming thermostats for heat lamps.

The heat source should be at one extinguish of the enclosure. I have 6-inch-wide (15 cm) heat mats at the serve of my rack systems. The removable snake tubs scramble into the rack and rest comfortably with the thermostatically controlled heat source at the aid.

Lighting

Lighting is not essential for sand boas, so is old primarily for the wait on of viewers. If you determine to light your sand boa enclosure, utilize a fluorescent tube. I hold natural sunlight tubes; they are inexpensive, shiny, and emit very shrimp heat, which is ideal.

Normal intelligent household bulbs can be former, but design positive that the snake cannot burn itself. These light bulbs gain very hot, and, if dilapidated at all, should be protected with a mesh cage. Snakes are often burned when they climb too discontinuance to heat sources. Sand boas are no exception, and will climb if given the opportunity.

Substrate

This is a perpetual topic of discussion among snake keepers. I currently maintain all my sand boas on aspen bedding, although over the years I have tried newspaper, sand, bark chips, savannah wood chips, and corncob substrate. Following are pros and cons of various substrate materials.

Aspen. This relatively cheap bedding of shredded wood is lightweight and easy for the snakes to burrow in, so I do not even bother with providing conceal boxes in my tupperware tubs. Aspen is relatively pleasing, and soaks up excretion hastily. The one down side is that it is often dusty. It is a reliable opinion to shake it well to assume most of the dust before putting it into the enclosure.

Newspaper. This is the most economic substrate, but it has many downsides. Newspaper, laid flat on the bottom of the terrarium, cannot be region cleaned; instead it must be completely removed and replaced with new paper every week or two. If you spill the water bowl, you have to replace the whole lot. Also, newspaper does not allow the snake to burrow, so you must provide hiding places (at least two) . This means more cleaning. However, if you have the time, newspaper is the most hygienic substrate.

Bark chips. I accept this to be the most aesthetically exquisite, but also the most unhygienic substrate. When damp, bark chips provide favourable conditions for tiny parasites. I noticed an increase in snake mites when I was using this substrate. Also, the colour of bark chips makes it difficult to status feces, which I therefore often inadvertently left in the boxes for a long time. I withhold wanting to go assist to this kind of substrate for its appearance, but it objective isn't worth the hassle.

Savannah chips. These beechwood chips are not a big substrate for sand boas. After a short time they become compacted, making a harder substrate layer that is not as easy for the snakes to burrow under. If this substrate becomes wet or soiled, fungal growth appears more expeditiously than with any other substrate I have mature. It is also heavier than some other substrates, and quite expensive.

Sand. When people believe of sand boas, they automatically occupy that the best substrate material for these snakes would be sand. But in fact, of all the different species and varieties of sand boas, there are probably only two that are truly sand dwellers, the Arabian and the Saharan, and even these are quite tickled on lighter substrates such as aspen. Sand is extremely heavy, and a right wander to work with. Some kinds are very dusty. If it gets wet, sand takes a surprising amount of time to dry, and can sustain the level of cage humidity high for several days. I have also had abominable experiences feeding snakes on this substrate. A sand boa can grab a mouthful of indigestible sand along with a prey item, swallow it all together, and waste up with a gut impaction. On the other hand, sand is easy to plot neat with a sieve or scoop. Also, I believe sand is the most racy to the search for, and I utilize it in all of my expose tanks.

Corncob. This substrate is lightweight and quite visually fascinating. However, it should be avoided at all costs. If ingested, corncob can cause impaction in the gut and has been known to destroy tiny snakes, and it is really no better in any procedure than other substrates already mentioned.

Water

In general, sand boas do not drink quite as worthy as many other snakes, and it is not crucial that they always have water available. Hygiene is well-known, and water offered must always be spruce, but if the bowl dries out for a short period, don't pain. I have found that removing the water bowl stimulates a feeding response in finicky eaters.

When choosing a water bowl, remember that sand boas are very strong burrowers. The bowl does not have to be heavy, but it should sit flat, directly on the bottom of the enclosure. Sand boas are generally clumsy, and quick knock over itsy-bitsy bowls that are not of an appropriate shape or are not positioned correctly. cramped porcelain pet bowls can work well. It is necessary that the cage not become wet, so choosing the true water bowl is indispensable.

Feeding

Juvenile sand boas need a regular feeding every 5-7 days. They have a higher metabolic rate than adults, so burn off their food great quicker. Baby sand boas of all species are very tiny. Some -- especially Turkish, Javelin, and Russian sand boas -- may be even too diminutive to feed on pinky mice. Try offering pinky mice anyway (you may be amazed at the size of prey they can swallow), but if the snakes really can't buy them, you may have to expend pinkies of smaller rodents (such as Russian hamsters), or pieces of larger rodents. Parts of the tail of an adult mouse often works.

As the young snake grows, it can be stepped up to taking mouse fuzzies. I have found it better for the snake to feed on one larger prey item rather than several smaller ones. I engage feeding one fuzzy instead of two or three pinkies, and have found that the snakes grow quicker with this blueprint.

Once the snake is able to rob diminutive to medium-sized mice, one feeding every 7-10 days is adequate, and one feeding every 14 days will suffice for adults. Most adult sand boas can win adult mice or weaner rats. The ideal prey size is fair slightly bigger around than the girth of the snake. Males often determine not to feed for several weeks at a time, and some individuals may eat only 6-10 times a year. Females should be offered more, and will readily pick up. Breeders should be offered food weekly.

Occasionally, sand boas close accepting food, or, in the case of newborns, never even commence to feed. Following are a few tips to aid accept plight sand boas to pick food.

o The first and foremost reason that juvenile and newly acquired snakes do not feed is dismal habitat -- enclosure size, substrate, hiding areas, heating, etc. Double-check to design obvious conditions are accurate.

o The prey item may be the atrocious size. Sand boas even sometimes refuse food that is too puny. They usually readily regain prey that is about as gigantic around as they are at the thickest point. Try feeding larger food items rather than smaller ones; this has worked for me particularly with rough-scaled sand boas.

o Prey species also makes a contrast. Some individuals may engage mice to rats, or vice versa. Try varying food items, including mice, rats, hamsters, gerbils, chicks or microscopic birds, and cramped lizards such as Sceloporus or Anolis.

o If all else fails, my next step would be to "dry the snake out." buy the water bowl and turn up the temperature a degree or two. After a week, offer a dripping wet prey item, touching it to the snake's mouth. Often the snake will drink from the food, and then go to eat it. This way has worked several times for me with rough-scaled sand boas and Russian sand boas.

Table 1. Overview of sand boa species that are available (or becoming available) in the hobby.

Species/ Size (approximate) / Male / Female / Temperament

Eryx jaculus jaculus

Javelin sand boa 12-18 in. (30-46 cm) 20-30 in. (51-76 cm) Quite aggressive

Eryx jaculus familiaris

Bulgarian sand boa 12-18 in. (30-46 cm) 18-24 in. (46-61 cm) Very docile

Eryx jaculus turcicus

Turkish sand boa 12-18 in. (30-46 cm) 18-24 in. (46-61 cm) Generally docile

Eryx jayakari

Arabian sand boa 16 in. (40 cm) 16 in. (40 cm) Generally docile

Eryx johnii

Indian sand boa 24-30 in. (61-76 cm) 30-48 in. (76-122 cm) Very docile

Eryx miliaris miliaris

Russian sand boa 12-15 in. (30-38 cm) 20-28 in. (51-71 cm) Generally docile

Eryx miliaris nogaiorum

sad Russian sand boa 12-15 in. (30-38 cm) 20-28 in. (51-71 cm) Generally docile

Eryx tataricus tataricus

Tartar sand boa 24 in. (61 cm) 36 in. (91 cm) Generally docile

Eryx tataricus speciosus

Spotted sand boa 24 in. (61 cm) 36 in. (91 cm) Generally docile

Gongylophis colubrinus

East African sand boa 15-18 in. (38-46 cm) 24-36 in. (61-91 cm) Generally docile

Gongylophis conicus

Rough-scaled sand boa 15 in. (38 cm) 30 in. (76 cm) Generally docile

Gongylophis muelleri

Saharan sand boa 24 in. (61 cm) 30 in. (76 cm) Extremely docile