Viper Gecko (Teratolepis fasciata)

Viper Gecko
(Teratolepis fasciata)

General
Viper Geckos are a small terrestrial species from Pakistan with an adult size of around 4" (10cm) With their striking markings & colouration and relative ease of care, these geckos are proving a popular choice with beginners & experienced keepers alike. However they are more frequently available as wild-caught specimens with only a few breeders in the UK achieving consistent success. Wherever possible, always search for captive bred, as these are less likely to suffer from stress & are free of the often fatal parasites found in wild caught

Housing
Viper geckos can be housed simply in glass vivaria with a minimum size of 18" x 12" x 8" high, or in one of the larger (18" x 12" x 9") fauna boxes commonly available. There are many disagreements over the correct substrate to use with this species. We’ve found the ideal being pure calcium carbonate the safest option, although fine-grade sand is also used by some keepers. However even fine-grade sand can pose a threat of impaction.

Other keepers use kitchen towel, which is easy to maintain if a little alien to the geckos natural comfort. However kitchen towel is by far the safest option with hatchlings or young geckos.

Furnishings should consist of a few small, flat rocky perches and several cork hides for security, placed at either end of the viv to allow the gecko a choice and the chance to thermo-regulate

Heating, Lighting & Humidity
Viper geckos are nocturnal and therefore do not necessarily need specialist lighting, however they do need to have access to at least some lighting, even if it’s only daylight, to help maintain a natural body clock. The period of daylight needs to mimic natural seasonal changes, with a total of up to 16 hours in high summer to around 8 hours during winter. If using an artificial lighting source, try to maintain these seasonal adjustments with the use of an electrical timer.

Viper geckos require an ambient temperature of 80°F (27°C) rising to a hot spot of 95°F (35°C),with a night-time drop of approx 10°. These temperatures are easily achieved with a heatmat controlled by a suitable thermostat placed along the outside of the viv and covering one third of the ground area. If using artificial lighting, adjust the thermostat accordingly to take into account the higher ambient temperature. Always use a quality digital thermometer to monitor your temps

Feeding
Suitably sized crickets can provide the bulk of a Viper geckos diet, but they will thrive if given as much variety as possible to provide alternative minerals & maintain an interest. Other commonly available insects include waxworms, and small locusts. These in turn can be supplemented with small, naturally occurring invertebrates during the spring & summer months, such as small spiders, grasshoppers etc.

Food insects should always be gut-loaded a day prior to feeding with a high-quality insect gutload, fresh green vegetables and non-citrus fruit. Extra supplementation can be provided by dusting the insects with Nutrabol, Reptivite or equivalent every other feed. We have also found the addition of a small bowl filled with calcium powder placed in the viv an ideal option, with the geckos often helping themselves as they need - especially with breeding females

Breeding & Hatchling Care
Viper geckos are relatively easy to sex with the males having large, hemipenal bulges.. Females ideally need to be at least 12 months old before breeding is attempted. Any earlier and you run the risk of putting too much strain on the female, with often fatal consequences. Females should also be in top health, with a good weight and thick, healthy fat deposits in the tail & around the hips. Viper geckos are notoriously prolific, but like other small prolific geckos, this should never be exploited to the detriment of the females health. We recommend separating the female after 4 - 6 clutches to allow time to recuperate.

Eggs may continue to be laid during this rest period and close attention should be paid to her weight & overall healthThe young can be raised in the small lunch-box type containers using kitchen towel as a substrate. Gently spray one end with water everyday to provide a humid area.

Hatchlings can be fed with suitably sized prey items offered daily. They are very delicate at this stage and care should be taken to ensure their environment is never allowed to dry out completely. Water is best provided by means of a small, shallow bowl.

The young can be raised in the small lunch-box type containers using kitchen towel as a substrate. Gently spray one end with water everyday to provide a humid area. Hatchlings can be fed with suitably sized prey items offered daily. They are very delicate at this stage and care should be taken to ensure their environment is never allowed to dry out completely. Water is best provided by means of a small, shallow bowl.

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