Biology
Frogs and toads are a group within the Amphibia. They live in most habitats with access to fresh water and occur all over the world except Antarctica. Most live on land and occasionally return to water to soak themselves or breed. Some species, however, divide their lives equally between the aquatic and terrestrial environments. Some of the species that fall into this group are those from the family, Discoglossidae. Commonly available examples include the Fire Bellied Toads, Bombina spp. and the Painted Frogs, Discoglossus spp.
Housing
The most suitable containers for these animals are aquaria. Set up with half land and half water, these tanks make admirable quarters. As none of the animals housed will become very big, it is possible to make an attractive display with the use of live plants and other decor. A 60 cm x 30 cm x 30 cm aquarium would be large enough for two pair of animals at 5 cm each or about a dozen smaller animals at about 2.5 cm each. The water in the aquarium may be filtered in some way and the movement necessary to do this, used to aerate it at the same time. To set up the tank, add the substrate to form a base and into this anchor the plants. Any other items of decor can then be positioned. Finally, fill the aquarium with water. Ordinary tap water is suitable but may be improved by adding a propriety conditioner. The filter should be installed and run for about a day to settle the environment. (If an under gravel filter is used, it must of course, be installed before the substrate.) The substrate has two functions. One is purely decorative and the other, functional. Where decor is concerned, much is dictated by personal taste but a few points are worth considering. Choose the colours to blend into a pleasing background that contrasts well with the animals. Either a very dark or very light colour will probably make the best contrast. A terraced effect built behind retaining walls gives the impression of depth and allows both the animals and plants access to different levels. The functional role of the substrate will centre around its ability to trap and hold particulate material and how much microbial life it can support. Chemically, it is better if it is inert. The best substances to choose are the fairly coarse, lime free sands and gravels used for aquariums. Alternatively, the artificial medium, Hortag is also recommended. Plants again, serve in both decorative and functional roles. They are better planted towards the rear of the tank and choose a species like Elodea, Scindapus and Tradascantia that are tough and will provide good oxygenation. These frogs are active climbers so a secure, escape-proof lid is essential. If some of the lid is made from a non-corroding metal mesh, this will allow for ventilation. It may also be possible to direct the light into the cage through this mesh. If the light levels are too low, however, the lighting should be installed to the underside of the cage lid. This may require the expertise of an electrician, as mains equipment and water certainly do not mix! It is essential all electrical equipment is installed correctly and adequate protection made against electrocution.
Husbandry
Small frogs cannot really be handled. If it is necessary to move them from one aquarium to another, a suitably sized net should be used. The net should be made from a soft material, as the skin is quite delicate. Return the frog to water as quickly as possible and avoid escape by capping the net with a free hand. Larger animals can be quickly grasped with the hand and gently lifted from one place to another. Do not touch the animal for any longer than is necessary. As far as cleaning out is concerned, the nature of the recommended set up only allows for minor interference. Every week between half and two thirds of the water can be removed and replaced with fresh tap water. Allow the new water to stand in a separate contained for a day to let some of the chlorine escape and for the temperature to equilibrate. The only other major task is to trim the plants as they grow and fill the tank. If they are not thriving, this is a good indication that something is wrong and needs to be corrected. The most common reason for plants to fail is insufficient light.
Food & Feeding
Frogs usually recognise food by smell and movement. Like many amphibians they will snap at moving objects in the hope that they might be a meal. If the morsel tastes OK and is of a size that can be swallowed, it is eaten. Small insects and the like are probably the best foods as they contain a good balance of nutrients. Crickets will make up the major part of the diet with other suitably sized items as the rest. Dust all food item with Repton at least once each week. Alternatively, crickets and mealworms may be fed Cricket & Mealworm Diet Plus respectively. This will load the gut of the insects with vitamins and minerals to make a nutritionally balanced meal for the animals eating them. Food should be offered two or three times per week with enough to be totally consumed in about half an hour. Do not leave uneaten food in the water. More frogs are probably lost through overfeeding and the subsequent pollution it causes, than any other cause.
Reproduction
Semi-aquatic frogs are some of the easiest frogs to breed and many of the excellent publications available will provide further information. Adult pairs will, of course, be required. To tell the sex of a frog it is usually necessary to wait until the individual is mature and then often, in breeding condition. This conditioning may be seasonal, so the right time of year is important.
Health & Disease
Pet frogs do not suffer from many problems. Occasional skin infections may show and can usually be dealt with preparations suitable for fish. The treatments and advice are available from aquarists and pet stores. Good practice, hygiene and first aid will probably deal with rest. If real disease is discovered, a vet must of course, be consulted. Pet frogs do not pose any real threat to human health. All the normal hygiene precautions regarding humans and animals should, however, be observed.
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Monday, October 8, 2007
Semi-Aquatic Frogs & Toads
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