Green Anole

Common Name: Green Anole Latin name: Anolis carolinensis
Native to: Southeastern United States from Florida to eastern Texas and north to Oklahoma and North Carolina. Green Anoles can also be found in the Bahamas, Cuba, and Mexico.

Size: Typically up to 9 inches, though some may reach as large as 12 inches.

Life span: If properly kept, green anoles can live 7 to 10 years though the average life span is
only three to five years because many die due to improper care and neglect.

General Appearance: The green anole is a small green lizard with a pointed nose, and a tail that
is generally twice as long as its body. They change color to brown when cold or stressed.
Both sexes have red throat fans called dewlaps though the male's is bigger and brighter.
Green anoles have long skinny toes with ridges on bottom for gripping. Juveniles have a
bluish-white stripe down their back. Females keep this stripe in adulthood, though males
will lose this stripe.
Housing requirements:

Enclosure: A pair of green anoles should be kept in an enclosure no smaller than 20
gallons. Taller enclosures are preferred with plants or other types of ornaments to
allow the anoles space to climb. Males can not be housed together as they are
territorial and will often fight over the limited amount of enclosure space. Males
can be kept with one or more females and any number of females can be kept
together. Obviously, larger enclosures are needed for larger groups of kept
anoles. Because anoles have the ability to climb sheer surfaces, a secure top
should always be used with the enclosures.

Temperature: Green anoles should be kept with ambient day temperatures of 75º to 80º
F with basking temperatures of 85º to 90º F. Temperatures of 65º to 75º F are
suitable at night.

Heat/Light: Green anoles require ultraviolet (UV) light which can be provided with
fluorescent UVB bulbs or mercury vapor bulbs that can also provide heat for the
basking spot. Basking temperatures can also be achieved using incandescent
bulbs, infrared bulbs, or ceramic emitters if using fluorescent bulbs for UV light.
Under the tank (UTH) heaters can be used to raise the ambient temperature of the
enclosure if needed. Heat rocks, heat caves, and other similar items should never
be used under any circumstance.

Substrate: Bark mulch, orchid bark, ground coconut fiber, and peat moss can all be used
to help create a naturalistic enclosure. Other substrates such as newspaper, paper
towels, or indoor/outdoor carpeting can also be used. If using naturalistic
substrates be sure to clean it often to prevent mold and bacteria growth.

Environment: Green anoles come from a tropical to semi-tropical region and require a
humidity level of 60% to 70%. To achieve this part of the screen top can be
blocked off to help prevent evaporation. The enclosure should also be misted
twice daily to help maintain humidity levels as well.
Diet: Green anoles are insectivorous. They will eat crickets, mealworms, waxworms,
cockroaches, fruit flies and other small insects. All feeder insects should be properly gutloaded
prior to feeding. Offering a variety of different insects will offer the best diet for
the anole since different insects have different nutritional values. Care should be used to
not overfeed anoles and they should only be offered only as much food as they can eat in
one sitting.

Maintenance: Clean up feces and urates as soon as you notice them, inspect the cage at least
once daily for cleanliness. Replace the water when it becomes soiled or dirty and scrub
out the dish. Anoles generally do not drink from standing water which is why it is vitally
important that the enclosure be misted daily. Anoles will drink from the water drops that
form on the cage ornaments. An aquarium bubbler can also be used in the water dish to
simulate moving water to encourage the anole to drink from the bowl.

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